My New Catalina 25

[42ndstreet]

Hey guys, the boat has been awesome!
We are having a great time. It is in Cayuga Lake. 40 miles of breeze, most of the time. Very few problems so far. Rebuilt the whale pump. Added a second battery, and now want to get a Garmin 498c fishfinder.
I have secured a new marina for next year. I declined the shrinkwrap and the winterizing.
I have never winterized a boat before, but what the heck, thats what my friends are for!
So help me out friends. Other than emptying all the water and tanks, I plan on bringing the outboard home. What else is needed?
Thanks.
P.S.-No water in the bilge.

[CapnHand]

Use the search button. Here's a start:

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20136&highlight=winter http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19834&highlight=winter

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19840&highlight=winter http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19833&highlight=winter

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21065&highlight=winter http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19880&highlight=winter

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19851&highlight=winter

[TrueBlue]

Concrats 42ndst. - A brand new C25 was on the dock across from us last season and got a chance to check it out. Very nice package!

Without an inboard engine, winterizing is easier. Aside from CapnHand's links, some basic stuff needs to be considered - depending upon the systems on your boat.

Not sure if your boat has pressurized fresh water, if so - you need to either purge the lines of all water with an air compressor, or pump non-toxic anti-freeze into the lines and water pump. If your boat has a water heater, bypass the heater with a hose coupling if using antifreeze and drain all water from the heater's tank beforehand.

Batttery cables should be disconnected and banks either connected to a trickle charger on the boat or back home in your garage. I always spray all electrical connections with a marine grade anti-corrosion spray - several products available.

Sails should be removed, folded properly, bagged and at the very least, stored in a dry place (not on the boat). Ideally, send them to a sail loft for maintenance repair, cleaning and storage. If you're seriously considering not covering the boat (bad decision) - at least cover all winches, hatches and possible water entry points, with shrinkwrap or plastic sheeting.

Bring all fabics, cushions and any liquids onboard home for dry storage. Wipe down the entire interior with a anti-bacterial cleaner, and place containers of DampRid around the cabin.

If you have a flush head, or PortaPotti, pour antifreeze into the bowl and pump chambers. I usually pour a little anti-freeze (pink stuff) into the bilge - in case water does get in and freezes the pump and float switch.

Coat any metals with WD40, or equivilent and make sure the hull is secured properly on stands or a trailer. Check the boat regularly for early problem signs - stuff does happen.

[42ndstreet]

Thanks to both of you.

[uspirate]

good info you two! and congrats 42nd! enjoy it and sail it like you stole it!

[camaraderie]

Hey 42nd...welcome back...glad yer having fun!

[sailingdog]

Hmm...

Freshwater System
I would fill the freshwater system with non-toxic (pink) anti-freeze, rather than just draining it... you'll invariably not empty the system completely, something will freeze and next year you'll have some unexplained leaks into the bilge that you will eventually trace to a blown hose or fitting in the freshwater system. Don't forget to treat the head and holding tank too—leaks there are really nasty to deal with.

Batteries & Electrical
Disconnect the batteries and take them home, and put them in a cool dry place and on an intelligent battery charger—three or four stage.

Cabin
Take the cushions and electronics that are easily removed off the boat.

Prop the locker hatches and lids open—let the lockers vent as much as possible, since stale air is a good way to get mold/mildew.

Spray all the hard surfaces with mold prevention spray... someone just came out with a new one that is quite good earlier this year...

Exterior of Boat
Wash the deck and wax it.

Polish and wax the stainless steel on the exterior of the boat.

Grease each seacock and operate the valve to spread the grease.

Clean all through-hulls of any growths. Check bronze through-hulls for de-zincification—if they're pinkish...they're de-zincifying, and should be replaced.

Check the zincs and replace any that are at 50% or less in mass... do it now, rather than in the spring.... and save on commissioning time.

Remove the sails and take them home. Store in a cool, dry place.

Remove the halyards and replace with messenger lines. Take the lines and wash them to remove salt and dirt. Wash with fabric softener in a tub—do not machine wash.

I would recommend you unstep the mast, but that depends on what your marina requires.

The boat will need ventilation, otherwise the heat shrink will turn it into a heat/moisture pump. Put some vents in the shrink wrap... and some in the boat, under the shrink wrap vents.

Engine
The engine needs to be treated as well—protected against freezing and corrosion damage over the winter:

You will need:
a can of fogging oil,
fuel stabilizer or biocide
non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze.

Inboards

Change coolant
Change the coolant in fresh-water cooled engines.

Change oil in engine and transmission
Run the engine to heat the oil up, then change the oil. Don't forget to replace the oil filter.

Top-off fuel tanks
Full tanks prevent condensation problems. Add a biocide to diesel tanks, add a fuel stabilizer to gasoline tanks. It might be better to use all the fuel rather than adding a stabilizer, especially if you have to use ethanol blend gasolines.

Drain all fuel from the engine
For gasoline engines only—disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until it runs out to prevent fuel from causing varnish deposits in the carburetor.

Fog the carbs
Before the engine runs out of gas, spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s). Fogging oil coats internal surfaces of the engine and help protect them from corrosion. Generally, the engine will run rougher as the fuel starts to run out—shoot some more fogging oil as this happens to ensure the carburetor is well coated.

Flush raw-water side of cooling system
Flush the raw water side, by disconnecting the intake hose from the through-hull and putting it in a bucket and filling the bucket with a garden hose—do not connect the hoses together as the water pressure can damage the water pump.

Protect raw-water passages
The raw water of the cooling system should be flushed and then filled with non-toxic anti-freeze. See above procedure to do it... run until pink anti-freeze comes out the exhaust side.

Remove raw-water impeller
Remove the impeller and set it aside so it doesn't take a set. This is a good time to replace the impeller, but keep the old one as a backup.

Fog the engine block
Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders. Turn the flywheel to coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil. Check the spark plugs and regap or replace as required. Reinstall the spark plugs. Fogging a Diesel—Spray fogging oil into the intake manifold, but crank the engine slowly by hand to spread the oil around the cylinders. Do not crank the engine quickly, as the engine can start using the fogging oil as fuel.

Drain water-lift muffler
If you can empty the water lift muffler of water, do it... otherwise the water vapor will help corrode the engine.

Lube control cables
Clean and lube the engine control cables.

Coat unpainted parts with an anticorrosion spray
I like Boeshield T9.

Seal all engine and tank openings
Sealing the engine and tank openings with heavy aluminum foil and duct tape will help prevent moist air from getting in and minimizes the corrosion the engine and system undergoes during storage.

Outboards

Freshwater flush
Use a flushing ears, or run the outboard in a tank filled with clean water.

Empty fuel lines
While the engine is still running, disconnect the fuel line from the engine. This prevents the fuel from turning into varnish and clogging the carburetor jets..

Fog the carburetor
Before the engine runs out of gas, spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s). Fogging oil coats internal surfaces of the engine and help protect them from corrosion. Generally, the engine will run rougher as the fuel starts to run out—shoot some more fogging oil as this happens to ensure the carburetor is well coated.

Drain cooling system
Let all water drain out of the pick-up, with the engine out of the water and the flushing ears disconnnected. Open any drain plugs to empty the head and housing. Turn over the motor a couple of times by hand or "bump" it with the starter to empty the water pump. Make sure that no water remains inside.

Remove water impeller
Remove the impeller so it doesn't take a set. Don't forget to replace it in the spring.

Fog the engine block
Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into the cylinders. Turn the flywheel to coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil. Check the spark plugs and regap or replace as required. Reinstall the spark plugs.

Lube and clean engine
Clean and lube all accessible pivots and visible gears with oil or grease as specified in your owner's manual.

Change the Engine Oil
Change the engine oil, since used motor oil is really nasty stuff and quite corrosive... so change it before letting the engine sit all winter. Don't forget to change the filter.

Change the Gearcase Oil
Change the gearcase oil, since it's pretty nasty stuff too. Also, fill the oil tank to prevent condensation from forming inside the tank.

Touch up paint
Touch up any paint scratches and then spray the powerhead with an anticorrosion spray—I like Boeshield T9.

Drain fuel tank and supply lines
Try to end the season with a near-empty fuel tank. Drain the remaining fuel and use it elsewhere. If you can't drain the fuel tanks and lines... add a stabilizer to the fuel tank. You'll need to check the amount based on your tank size.

Clean and lube the prop shaft
Take the props off to prevent theft and if they need repair, drop them off to get them fixed-up.

Store upright
If the engine isn't going to be stored on the boat, you need to make a stand for it. A wooden sawhorse can often work for smaller outboards. Store in a cool dry place if possible.

That's all I can think of for now... I hope it helps.

[uspirate]

Originally Posted by sailingdog

That's all I can think of for now...

you sure???

[sailhog]

Originally Posted by sailingdog

Hmm...

That's all I can think of for now... I hope it helps.

What kind of a half-assed answer is that? I remember back in the day people would give you a COMPLETE answer to your question. When I was a boy, I had to walk through ten feet of snow BAREFOOT to get to school. Now they take a bus! The last days are at hand!

[uspirate]

Originally Posted by sailhog

What kind of a half-assed answer is that? I remember back in the day people would give you a COMPLETE answer to your question. When I was a boy, I had to walk through ten feet of snow BAREFOOT to get to school. Now they take a bus! The last days are at hand!

LMAOROF, you've been on a roll all week...are you taking your medication as prescribed?