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post #11 of 30 Old 10-09-2007
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If the rigging checks out/plays out and you still can't get here to point evenly on port/starboard tacks check out the hull shape/weight balance - it can factor significantly if it is off kilter.
I had that problem the first couple of times out on my brand new - knew the rigging was fine catamaran. Then I shifted all the alcohol and mixers (plus other toy's and stuff) from the port side aft to the stbd side aft - the weight of the liquid's plus the weight of the 480 amp hours of post production batteries was enough to matter. I suspect it would not affect a keel boat as much, but it might...
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post #12 of 30 Old 10-09-2007
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most people on the P30 mailing list, the PO, and everybody we've talked to at the club, incl. our sponsor, says "You don't need it."
The Loos gauge is the first thing you should do. I will guarantee you that the people who are telling you that you don't need it are NOT experienced in rig tuning, and I don't care how long they have been sailing, they do not know what they are talking about.

If the things were not worth several times their cost in added performance and enhanced rig durability people would not have been buying them for the last several decades.
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post #13 of 30 Old 10-09-2007
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I concur with Sailormann.

“Scientists are people who build the Brooklyn Bridge and then buy it.”
Wm. F. Buckley, Jr.
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post #14 of 30 Old 10-09-2007
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Jim,
Sounds like you weren't that far out(count your blessings). I still would want to have it perfectly even side to side. and to know what the actual tension is. If for instance the rig is equal but only tightened to 8 or 10 percent, you wiill still be putting a shock load on it when you jibe or tack in 20+.
Get the loos, get it equal and start racing that boat. with speeds like that you would whoop every boat at our wed. race hands down.

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post #15 of 30 Old 10-10-2007 Thread Starter
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Jim,
Sounds like you weren't that far out(count your blessings).
Actually, we were. Embarrassing admission: All I'd have had to have done was sight up the mast track, as every article ever written on the subject says to do, and I'd have seen the significant mast bend to starboard right off! Talk about a major "Doh!" And I knew this. Why didn't I do it?

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I still would want to have it perfectly even side to side.
The main issues are that the mast is in column (it is now), has the optimum amount of pre-bend (which the guy that helped us put in), and that it's tensioned properly for the sailing conditions. Apparently it's not uncommon to re-tune the entire rig, depending on expected conditions. (Looser for cruising and in lighter air, tighter for racing and in heavy air.) It's also not uncommon for racers to re-tune the aft lower shrouds depending on air and tack.

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and to know what the actual tension is. If for instance the rig is equal but only tightened to 8 or 10 percent, you wiill still be putting a shock load on it when you jibe or tack in 20+.
Understood.

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Get the loos, get it equal
Like I said: Everything I've been told and read about our rig says that what's most important is that the mast is in column, and that it stays in column under moderate load. (I'll be checking that latter as we sail her.) According to Bill Shaw (Pearson designer): That's all that's necessary.

That being said (take note, Sailormann and sailaway21): I'm a guy who likes to be able to measure things. I'd like to have a Loos gauge even if only to record the tensions resulting from the tuning she got last Sunday. So maybe I'll just break my personal piggy bank and get one. Haven't decided yet.

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and start racing that boat. with speeds like that you would whoop every boat at our wed. race hands down.
When I related to the PO some of the speeds we were seeing (and the knotmeter isn't broken--the GPS [approximately] confirms what the knotmeter tells us), he said she's above-average fast for a P30 and a boat of her design and class. He said it sometimes happens in manufacturing that, for whatever reason, a particular boat just comes together "just so," and ends-up being faster than she's supposed to be. Plus he did some work, such as fairing the keel.

Jim
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post #16 of 30 Old 10-10-2007
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SEMIJim-

Don't bother getting the inexpensive Loos guages... get the more expensive ones, as they're easier to use and a good deal more accurate. The price difference isn't all that much, especially if you consider how long you'll have them.

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post #17 of 30 Old 10-10-2007 Thread Starter
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SEMIJim-

Don't bother getting the inexpensive Loos guages... get the more expensive ones, as they're easier to use and a good deal more accurate.
Wasn't going to. (If I do it.) Was going to go for the "Pro" version. For my rigging (the diameters of which are yet to be determined), they look to be running around $85 or so.

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The price difference isn't all that much, especially if you consider how long you'll have them.
About $15 to $20 more, or so. I agree.

Jim
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post #18 of 30 Old 10-10-2007
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OK, now who has found the best resourse for Loos Guages? I have continued to put off buying one, but my as well put it on my Christmas lists and order it for my lovely wife to surprise me with.
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post #19 of 30 Old 10-10-2007
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Should mention that my wire is 1/4" and 5/16". The prices I am seeing are about double for the pro version.
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post #20 of 30 Old 10-10-2007
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Rigging Only has them for a pretty good price.

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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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