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  #11  
Old 10-15-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartley18 View Post
Tenuki, many thanks for the manuals and winch info - it never occured to me that someone may have had the forethought to scan them. It may seem strange, but the four Barlow 15's are one reason I bought the boat! You see my parents had Barlows on their boat when I was growing up - kind of sentimental, I know..

Thanks for the lead, but I'm a little far away to be calling arco-hutton for parts. I wonder if there's anyone out here (down under)?

--Cameron
Uh dude, they are in Australia...... I was the one who was a little far away to be calling. lol. (ps took 3 phone calls + 3 emails to get the right parts)
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Last edited by tenuki; 10-15-2007 at 04:00 AM.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenuki View Post
Uh dude, they are in Australia......
Apologies.. I should have checked first!!
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Picture of my cabin top on a nice day on Port Phillip (not!) :

Sheet winch position-img_3161.jpg

I'm not all that keen on running the sheets up there - it's a bit crowded off to the right.

I took some measurements last night:

Jib sheet height at fairlead = 1.5" off seat (enough room for turning block entry)
Distance from fairlead to current turning block = 17"
Distance from fairlead to traveller = 34"
Winch is currently 15" inboard of turning block and 1st turn on drum is ~1.25" from winch base.
Height of coaming = 8" at fairlead sloping back to about 6" at traveller.

Spinnaker fairlead is 17" further aft from traveller and 3" off seat.

With input from Ron and Tenuki (sorry I can't draw to save myself) my current thoughts are:

Sheet winch position-img_3247-1.jpg

Pink = jib sheet, Green = Spinnaker

To keep between 5-8 degrees to the winch, by my crude calcs the height of the winch entry would need to be between 4.5" and 6" meaning that the winch base would be an inch or so below the edge of the coaming as it is now, rather than sit on top.

Is this sort of thing okay or would it be better to cut the coaming down?

Am I on the right track??

--Cameron

Last edited by Classic30; 10-15-2007 at 07:33 PM.
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I am real new at this, but reading and looking at the pictures, could you put a single winch in the center below the companionway sill? I think that is what I see in the picture. Just a thought..
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Old 10-15-2007
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Cam - that's the idea - but I'd incorporate the cleat onto the side of the block, below the winch - that way there's less interference with seating, and the sheet won't be dragging over the seat edge. You could use an angled bracket for the cleat to optimize the lead angle to it.

As long as the useful part of the drum itself is above the coaming edge, it shouldn't matter if the base is slightly below the coaming edge.

Grey owl; center winches seem like a good idea, but in fact you cannot preload the winch for the next tack until you've cleared the old one - it really slows down the tacking maneouver.

Last edited by Faster; 10-15-2007 at 08:05 PM.
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ahhh...good to know. thank you.

michael
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something to consider, angling your winch with a wedge base. My boat's mains are on a teak base that is in the form of a wedge. The tilt that provides is just right to get that 5-8 degrees from the turning block. Works great.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenuki View Post
something to consider, angling your winch with a wedge base. My boat's mains are on a teak base that is in the form of a wedge. The tilt that provides is just right to get that 5-8 degrees from the turning block. Works great.
Tenuki is right in that this would help with the overly flat lead to your current winch location. But it wouldn't address your other concerns.

If you raise and relocate the winch you likely won't need to angle it if you get the required angle from the elevation change.
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Thanks for the feed back, guys

Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Cam - that's the idea - but I'd incorporate the cleat onto the side of the block, below the winch - that way there's less interference with seating, and the sheet won't be dragging over the seat edge. You could use an angled bracket for the cleat to optimize the lead angle to it.
Ron, it would be great to cleat off on the base for all the reasons you mentioned - but wouldn't the angle of the tail be too great? Are the cam cleats okay or did you have something else in mind?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tenuki View Post
something to consider, angling your winch with a wedge base. My boat's mains are on a teak base that is in the form of a wedge. The tilt that provides is just right to get that 5-8 degrees from the turning block. Works great.
Angling the winch: I'm curious - which way would I angle it? Would you mind posting a photo of your setup?

--Cameron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartley18 View Post
Thanks for the feed back, guys



Ron, it would be great to cleat off on the base for all the reasons you mentioned - but wouldn't the angle of the tail be too great? Are the cam cleats okay or did you have something else in mind?



Angling the winch: I'm curious - which way would I angle it? Would you mind posting a photo of your setup?

--Cameron
Re the cleat - cam cleats are better than others, esp clamm style. If you have 3 wraps or so on the winch the load on the cleated tail is not great... I think it would work even on the side of the block... but you could put in on a bracket to get a better lead (but it complicates the install)

Re angling... suppose you left your winches where they were and angled them inboard to 5-8 degrees. Then the approach angle to the drum would be the same 5-8 degrees even though the sheet is essentially parallel to the seat. Angling the winch can be done at any location to optimize the approach angle. Tilt the winch away from the direction of the sheet approach.

Raising the winch accomplishes the same thing but angling requires fewer long bolts (but angling also really calls for an equally wedge shaped backing plate..)
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