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  #21  
Old 12-06-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Faster's point about making a mounting block for the cam cleat is a very good one.. you want the cam cleat's base to be as flat as possible so the cams don't jam under load.
Thanks, SD. Ronstan make a "curved riser" that sounds like it'll do the job and be heaps easier than making one.

The next trick is to work out how best to fasten it onto the boom, with such thin-walled section. Everything else is rivetted. Self-tappers perhaps??

Shoud I be using plastic or alloy cleats?
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Last edited by Classic30; 12-06-2007 at 06:47 PM.
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  #22  
Old 12-07-2007
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If you can rivet the mounting plate/riser and then screw the cam cleat to the mounting plate, that would be ideal. That's how I have attached the line clutches to my mast.
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2007
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It's been a couple of weeks, but I've almost got my boom re-done - had to change the outhaul setup first to allow for the two reefs, #1 to Starboard and #2 to Port, taking way longer than planned..

I know from an earlier thread that it doesn't make much difference how far aft the turning blocks are, so long as they are well aft of the clew cringle, but is it Standard Practice (tm) to:

(a) Fix the turning blocks on either side of the boom at the same distance along the boom? Or should they be
(b) Staggered (ie. the same distance from the respective cringles)??
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Last edited by Classic30; 12-17-2007 at 01:37 AM.
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  #24  
Old 12-17-2007
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I'd stagger them... that way you don't weaken the boom extrusion too much in any given area.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
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  #25  
Old 12-17-2007
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Yes, staggered... for structural reasons as per SD and consistent leech tension with either reef.
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  #26  
Old 12-17-2007
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Thanks, guys

Any thoughts on how far back from the cringle the turning blocks should be? 6" or so??
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