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  #11  
Old 12-17-2007
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Could you

Add another mooring (smaller) that you could attach a stern line to. Then you could center the boat between the two moorings with clearance at both ends.
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2007
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Our you could just add one of these thingy's

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  #13  
Old 12-17-2007
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The local sailing magazine had an article on some home remedies for a banging mooring buoy. One sailor dropped one of those orange highway cones down the mooring line. Another sailor carried an inner tube with him and put that over/around the mooring buoy. Both are cheap and easy fixes to try.
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2007
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One solution I've seen for a mooring ball in this particular situation is putting the mooring pennant, preferably chain, through a piece of 2" PVC pipe that's about 10' long... this pipe acts as a stand off for the boat, and keeps the buoy and chain at least 10' from the boat.
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2007
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I tried something like that one night on a state park buoy. I ran my mooring line through a small whisker pole type arrangement to act as a standoff. At oh-dark-thirty in the morning, the dreaded thump-thump-thump began when the tide went slack. When I got up to see what was going on, I found that the buoy was banging the hull further back instead of at the bow because of the standoff.

The thing that has worked best for us for an occasional overnighter on a buoy is to tie up our inflatable dinghy snuggly, bow to bow with the mooring buoy captured between the two inflatable transom tubes. That doesn't help the original poster though.
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Last edited by erps; 12-18-2007 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 12-24-2007
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Can you rig a pole or board as a temporary bowsprit/stand-off? My small boat has a permanent bowsprit that works very well to keep the buoy away from the hull. I clip a short length of heavy duty shock cord from the top of the buoy to an eye bolt at the end of the sprit. The shock cord is short enough to hold the buoy away from the hull but stretches when the wind picks up so that the regular mooring lines take the strain.

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Old 12-25-2007
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Denise...

With a proper mooring configuration, and properly weighted top chain, your mooring chain should NEVER even come in contact with the hull. Below is a link to the proper mooring configuration. I will add however that if you're in a river a swivel at the ball and one between the top and bottom chain should be considered as opposed to just one at the ball.

Mooring Configuration: http://www.hamiltonmarine.com/0130.html

Your set up sounds awfully light for my liking but the scope is just about right. On my old Catalina 310 I ran a 500lb mushroom with 25 feet of USCG bottom chain (8 inch long links with the bar) to 35 feet of 3/4 top chain to a 1 1/4 inch swivel. Off the top of the swivel were the mooring ball and dual Yale pendants of unequal lengths. My boat has zero scratches!!!!!

Through the ball set ups, with the shackles on top, WILL scratch your hull and offer zero benefit other than being able to see the top shackle. You still need a swivel with a through the ball set up and most times it's installed under the ball where you can't see it. the swivel is the weak link in any system, other than pendants, and that is why I spend the big bucks for a HUGE one....
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Last edited by Maine Sail; 12-25-2007 at 03:57 PM.
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