Is anyone familiar with the Capitol Yachts Newport 28 design? - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 03-22-2008
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Heh. I think it's become pretty obvious I'm looking at a "modification" here. Maybe I should just cut a piece of starboard to fit in there and rebuild the transom back to the way it was. Would 5200 be a strong enough bond, or is there something else that would be better?
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2008
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If it is really a modification, then you might want to glass the opening over instead of just putting a piece of StarBoard in there with 5200. StarBoard isn't strong enough IMHO to be used as what should be a structural element of the boat.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2008
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They do sell a "glue" for starboard. I believe that is works best when gluing starboard to starboard. I am not sure how well it would work to gelcoat or fiberglass.
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  #14  
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Free-

From what I've seen of that glue, it doesn't work all that well. Most projects that use laminated starboard, like those expensive drop boards that have the screen inserts, also use screws or bolts to keep the things together.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Old 03-22-2008
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I have to agree and was why I said I wasn't sure how well it would work with gelcoat or fiberglass. Starboard is an interesting product for certain project. I am not sure this is one of them.
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2008
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The manufacturer of StarBoard doesn't recommend it for anything where tensile strength might be an issue or for "structural" uses. The aft end of a cockpit in a small sailboat probably qualifies under both of those, especially if the cutout was a user-modification, since the transom of the boat is probably significantly weaker with such a cut out in it.
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You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #17  
Old 03-22-2008
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If I wanted to glass it over -- and I've never worked with fiberglass before -- what would the procedure be, in general? From what I've gathered reading about the process, I'd put in a piece of marine plywood or whatever to fill the gap, then glass over that. Is that correct? If so, how would I attach the new piece in there to the existing fiberglass so that it would be strong enough? Use a marine epoxy glue?

Obviously this isn't a critical need, as many boats have open transoms. But I am curious now.

Thanks again for all the info and advice!
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Basically, you'd grind the three surfaces (front, back and top) to taper them so that you can build up a nice layered "patch" of fiberglass...

A typical taper is based on the thickness of the fiberglass involved, and tapers at 12:1.. so if the glass is 1/4" thick, the tapered section should be 3" wide. I would probably go with a bit more gradual a taper—16:1 or so and use four or five layers of glass on each side.

I would recommend you use epoxy resin, since it has the strongest secondary bonding characteristics (adhesive strength) and also generally has the strongest tensile strength. MAS, West and System Three all make good products for this.

To reduce the amount of fiberglass and resin that you'll need and use, most people will use a core of either plywood, foam or end-grain balsa. I'd recommend end-grain balsa or foam, since they're better and lighter than plywood as core materials go. If the coaming is thicker than 2-3", you may have to do the repair in a slightly different manner. Let me know how thick that aft transom section is.

The balsa or foam can be epoxied into the opening and then have the fiberglass and epoxy laid over both sides, with each layer overlapping the existing hull a bit more than the previous layer—say 1" each layer. Let the epoxy cure. Wash off amine blush if necessary. Sand it, fair it with thickened epoxy, filled with chopped fiberglass, and sand it to final shape... and then paint it.

West Systems, MAS and System Three all have a lot of good materials on their websites.
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Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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Last edited by sailingdog; 03-22-2008 at 10:55 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-23-2008
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The transom there is 1 1/8" thick. You know, though, it might be a better idea to just make a piece to fit in there and lock down with wingnuts or something. Then I'd have the best of both worlds, a closed transom and the ability to open it up to drag someone in during an MOB episode. The PO told me his girlfriend used it to climb aboard when swimming, though taking a dip in Chesapeake Bay is not my idea of a nice swim.
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  #20  
Old 03-23-2008
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It's not critical from the standpoint of allowing water to enter the cockpit, in fact looks a little like there are six snaps on the edges where a PO may have simply used a piece of canvas to close the opening. However, as SD pointed out if the boat was designed and built with a closed transom and a PO simply cut an opening there is nothing to replace the structural rigidity across the top of the transom. Boats built with an open transom have a very beefy structure at the bottom.
BTW Where does the tiller (?) fit in relation to this ?

Last edited by capttb; 03-23-2008 at 11:49 AM.
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