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  #11  
Old 07-15-2008
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Thumbs up Nice write up, but two more things...

Two other items I would add:

1) Attach a float the anchor so others know where your anchor is. I easily made one from a crab pot float.

2) If you have a GPS, most can set an anchor alarm, do so.
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2008
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I have never anchored in Maine but in the Chesapeake there are areas where you could plow all day and never get it set. I have only had my Delta 44 fail once fortunately and it was in 45MPH winds. ~ and that was with 50 feet of chain and 7:1 ratio of rode. You can have the best anchor around put nothing replaces you monitoring your situation when conditions call for it and not assume the anchor (or the guy 100yards away..) is going to hold.

I agree with the others that it is best to let it set first before tugging under power.
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Old 07-15-2008
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outstanding write up, now lets talk about droping and setting your second hook.
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Old 07-15-2008
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Raft ups?

What about anchoring for raft ups...the most common anchor dragging situation I witness?

The middle boat, which should be the biggest with the largest anchor, and set at least a 10:1 scope?

If sailboats are tied up next to one another, be sure to offset your rigging

More?
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Old 07-15-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catamount View Post
When powering back on your anchor, watch your SOG (speed over ground) display on the GPS -- with the rode tight and the anchor set it should read 0.0 knots. If it doesn't, you are dragging or swinging, or something else is amiss -- the COG (course over ground) display can be informative here.
Don't get too worried if is shows a tenth of a knot while backing down as the prop walk is usually the culprit... As catamount stated the plotter zoomed into the 20 foot scale will tell you all you need to know..
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Old 07-15-2008
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Originally Posted by SVDistantStar View Post
Ok ive got 2 anchors out on my boat. Both are on 200' of line and 30' of 3/8''s chain with 30# bruces on each one. Ive got a max depth of about 35'. Both of my anchors are out, one up river and one down river. Both only have about 15-20' of line left on the boat. They hold great, untill the wind blows across the river, then im screwed.
Well for one you are a little short on scope and anchor size! 35 feet + roughly four feet of bow height is 273 feet of rode for a 7:1 not 210 which is roughly 5:1. For a permanent mooring you'll want at least a 7:1 but anchoring should not be a substitute for a permanent mooring!

Just because you have two anchors set it does not change the scope for each one. A 44lb claw or Bruce is a much better suited anchor for that vessel as the Bruce is a rather low holding design with minimal surface are per pound. I used to used a 44lb Bruce on a Catalina 36 not the 33lb..
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Old 07-15-2008
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Here's another tip on figuring scope, if you're using a sufficient length of chain followed by nylon rope -- start measuring your rode for length markers at the chain to rope connection, NOT at the anchor. Then you just need to take the reading from your depth sounder and not worry about the height of your bow above the water or the depth of your transducer below the water, because with enough chain you've already given yourself 7:1 scope for that part; you just have to let out enough nylon to get 7:1 for the water depth.

Also, with practice you'll come to know what the angle between the rode and the water should look like at different scopes, and you can dispense with higher math -- except for the tide-- set your scope visually per above, know where you are in the tidal cycle and how much higher high tide will be (look at the shore for clues!), and then let out enough additional rode to account for the expect rise of tide.

Regards,

Tim
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Old 07-15-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halekai36 View Post
Don't get too worried if is shows a tenth of a knot while backing down as the prop walk is usually the culprit... As catamount stated the plotter zoomed into the 20 foot scale will tell you all you need to know..
Or just looking at the COG display will tell you in which direction you are moving. Comparing that with your compass heading will tell you whether you are moving backwards (dragging anchor), moving sideways (swinging due to prop-walk, current or other cause), or moving forwards (your elastic rode springing you back towards your anchor!).
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I can't believe you left out the most important rule:

Never anchor behind a power boat.

( You know the ones - big cruisers with an electric windlass. They anchor with 1:1 scope and set the thing without ever leaving the cockpit )
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Haleikai,

Good job! I'm an "anchoring fiend". Have been for over 50 years. When teaching sailing, I always include a full session on anchoring technique.

Cam's comment about the 80% and CQR's is relevant; I've also found that letting the anchor settle awhile, sailing to and fro at anchor in a good wind, can help the set very well. Then, applying power in reverse isn't a bad idea.

With Danforths or Fortresses, though, you ought to be able to apply power right away, and I agree that no sailboat has enough power to drag a well-set anchor. If it drags, you either didn't set it correctly, the bottom is hopeless, or your ground tackle is either inappropriate to the bottom type or WAY too light.

I don't agree with the short chain recommendation for Fortress or Danforth anchors. I believe that in virtually all circumstances an all-chain rode is to be preferred. The catenary provided by heavy chain is hard to beat, and it take a very strong wind to straighten out that chain.

Re: your recent anchoring drama, there will always be numbskulls out there. But, hopefully, some will read your post and benefit from its experience-based wisdom.

Cheers,

Bill
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