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  #11  
Old 09-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailChick20 View Post
1. Oil change/engine winterization...my mechanic will change the oil for cheap
before I sail back to the yachtyard. They charge $160 to winterize.
What does the winterization include? Typically, that includes an oil change. If it doesn't, the price is pretty steep. FYI, when I winterize my engine I change the oil and filter, check the trans fluid, check the engine coolant (change every 3rd year), drain the heat exchanger, then run the engine with the raw water intake stuck into a bucket of winterizing antifreeze. I drain the water lift muffler, lubricate anything that moves on the engine (throttle, transmission cables, etc.), then spray the engine with WD-10, and leave it. I don't fog it or anything else.

Quote:
2. Battery storage....do you remove from your boat? They want $45/ea to
store and load test.
I leave my batteries on the boat and connected. I put a small solar panel on the boat and that keeps the batts charged.

Quote:
4. Shrink wrap...they charge $620 (which I think is ridiculous)...should I just
tarp like crazy? What supplies do I need to do this?
It's expensive, but well worth it over a poorly installed tarp system that damages the boat. My boat came with a nice heavy duty custom built cover. It's hard to install but worked well last year. I used to pay the yard (about $350) to shrink wrap my 28' boat. That price included a door, frame, etc. and made working inside the boat very pleasant.

Quote:
5. Winch maintenance? Steering system tune-up? Outdrive service?
Outdrive, what's that? Winch maint needs to be done, but it doesn't matter if you do it in the fall or spring. Same with steering.

Good luck,
Barry
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  #12  
Old 09-28-2008
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sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice sailingdog is just really nice
I'm just curious as to how you say my comment was misplaced when you clearly said:

Quote:
wet cells won't discharge so you don't have to charge them "once a week".
Yes, you could re-charge the batteries monthly, but you're at a greater risk of damaging them by having them sulfate...

BTW, you're the one distorting what I'm saying... after all you said:

Quote:
Winterizing the water system - there is already lots of info available on the internet I won't reiterate but to say if you are putting antifreeze in your tanks, you're just wasting it. Empty the tanks by pumping and simply introduce antifreeze at a convenient point in the system to the faucets.
When I clearly said:
Quote:
Drain all the fresh water from the system and then fill the system with a few gallons of non-toxic anti-freeze and pump it through to all the faucets.
So, kindly xxxx

Quote:
Originally Posted by k1vsk View Post
Your misplaced sarcastic comment is totally inappropriate, again.

What I said is that recharging isn't A WEEKLY EVENT AS YOU IMPLIED but can be done monthly to compensate for the residual discharge rate. If you want to take exception to something you disagree with, that's fine but please don't distort what I said and then disagree with it.

feel free to get in your last word again...
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Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
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  #13  
Old 09-28-2008
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This discussion is both useless and unresponsive to the orgiinal question.
Having said that, you impled it is necessary to charge wet cells weekly - that's unnecessary unless you have some bad batteries. Monthly should be more than sufficient as indicated by IS, Trojan, Johnson, etc, all of which have discharge curves fairly similar clearly showing wet cell charge levels decreadsing over time at various temperatures at a rate FAR slower than a weekly monitoring interval would even observe.

If this isn't clear to you now, please check their easily understandable web sites and tell me what I've said that is wrong. Regardless, you can still have the last word as I was only trying to clarify the situation to the OP and I believe I have.
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  #14  
Old 09-28-2008
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I put 6 or 7 2x6's over my cockpit from the pushpit to the cabin top,tie them on with 1/2' line to the pushpit and wrap the cabin top end with the line so they aren't sitting on the fiberglass then tie them off to winches etc.Then I take off the lifeline stanchions and run a long 4x4 from the bow pulpit to the mast step and tie it into place with appropriate padding.Now it is ready for a tarp about 10" longer than the boat and wide enough to go to the waterline.I stitch a light line through the holes in the tarp from side to side and finish it with an old anchor rode wrapped around the boat from stem to stern.Leave ventillation openings bow and stern and you are done.
This methdod dicourages vandals as it's really hard to get into the cabin.For extra security make a plywood panel the same shape as the companionway bulkhead and tie the 2x6's to it.Now it's freakin impossible for any one to get in.Even you,so don't plan on getting back on the boat till spring.Easy on tarps to cause they can't flog in the wind. Mine is 5 yrs.old with little wear.
Phil
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  #15  
Old 09-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otaga05 View Post
This may sound obvious, but don't forget to open your seacocks once the boat is on the hard.
Thanks for the reminder! I believe I also have to do something with the speed & depth readers underneath.

Great info...thanks everyone!
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  #16  
Old 09-28-2008
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Don't forget the bilge. some boats leak a little here & there & it all makes it s way to the bilge . A little non-toxic antifreez in the bilge and disconnect the fuse to the automatic portion if the bilge pump because if it freezes & the pump trys to run it will drain the batterys and/or blow the fuse or ruin the pump.
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Old 09-28-2008
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Water system

Why can't you make an adapter and simply purge all water out of tanks and lines using compressed air, then you don't have to introduce any antifreeze into your water system.
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  #18  
Old 09-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailChick20 View Post
1. Oil change/engine winterization...my mechanic will change the oil for cheap
before I sail back to the yachtyard. They charge $160 to winterize.
I paid a mechanic to change my oil the first winter and watched what he did so that I could do it myself the next time. It is not rocket science.
You will need to buy a hand pump to suck the old oil out. A good one costs about $30.

You will also need to top up the transmission fluid and remember to suck out the excess in the spring.

I believe you want to change your oil on a warm engine and then not run it again on the new oil before laying it up. I understand that the combustion products from running the engine create corrosive chemicals in the oil, which can damage the engine if it sits idle for a while.

I am not sure whether a 10 minute run to the yard will do any damage. Others will certainly correct me

Quote:
2. Battery storage....do you remove from your boat? They want $45/ea to
store and load test.
A seriously discharged wet cell is likely to freeze and be destroyed by a severe Chicago winter.
If you have wet cells the best solution would be to keep a smart charger plugged in all winter (if the yard allows this -- mine doesn't). You can also take the batteries home, as I do, and keep one plugged into a smart charger and alternate batteries at the first of each month. I store them in my garage which never gets below freezing.
Quote:
3. Winterize head/holding tank....they charge $30 & up. I think I can do this.
When you have your head pumped for the last time before hauling, make sure you flood it with fresh water from the shower head while it is being pumped, until the effluent runs clear. That is a great way to keep your boat from developing unpleasant odors over the winter.
Quote:
4. Shrink wrap...they charge $620 (which I think is ridiculous)...should I just
tarp like crazy? What supplies do I need to do this?
Finding a tarp solution that works for your boat can be a challenge. It took
me several winters before I evolved a scheme that worked.

Are you storing the mast on the boat? Up? Or lying across the coach house? The horizontal mast can act as the ridgepole for a tarp and make the whole business easier, but it is a pain to get around on the boat over the winter if you need to.


Quote:
5. Winch maintenance? Steering system tune-up? Outdrive service?
Winch maintenance is an easy spring job. You should learn to do it yourself. You can service 7 winches in about an hour once you know how to do it.
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  #19  
Old 09-28-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pegasus1457 View Post
I am not sure whether a 10 minute run to the yard will do any damage.

Are you storing the mast on the boat?

Winch maintenance is an easy spring job. You can service 7 winches in about an hour once you know how to do it.
My trip to the yard could be a 3 hour sail...maybe 30-45 minutes of running the engine. So...in that case, should I just have the oil changed at the yard instead of before this trip? Does it matter?

Mast will be up all winter...which would make my tarping job harder. Am seriously considering the shrinkwrap.

I think I will read up on winch servicing and see if I'm up to the task in the Spring.
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  #20  
Old 09-28-2008
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Shrink wrap it the first year . carefully cut it off in the spring & make a pattern & spend next yerars shrink wrap money to to build a nice canvas tarp. Materials available at Marine Fabrics, Sailcloth, Sail Kits, Canvas and Sail Hardware for Do-It-Yourself
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