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  #11  
Old 01-23-2009
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hmmmmmm......

Now I can see how that knot works with an RF system and a higher clew......what if you have hanked on no RF with a deck sweeper 155 or some such jib/genoa. One usually wants as short a knot as possible, so you can get the carr as close to the clew in light winds for sail shape. Farther back in heavy winds would not be an issue as you will usually want the carr back a bit.

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  #12  
Old 01-23-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giulietta View Post
tie the knot as long as possible,
but the loop can't be too long, as it may prevent the sheet to get in the genoa track car sheave. The knot should be at least 3 inches before it reaches the sheave.
I think he covered that.
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2009
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ok, how does that saying go, "open mouth pickup foot insert"

I saw that, then look at his actual pic with the RF high clew, and went WTF!

the "loop can;t be too long so it will not go into the car sheave" went in one ear and out the other, or is that in the eyes, and out the ears!?!?!?!

So the loop will need to vary based on the clew hieght etc. OK,

Thank you.............

as I go off to bury my head in the sand!
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
Just one comment about long knots on Spinnakers.. I assume this is in reference to an A sail. While few symmetrical spins are tied on, if they are then long knots are problematic when acting as a guy vis-a-vis the pole. The tack/clew should be as close to the pole as possible for stability.
Faster, that is 100% correct, only on assyms...

I did not mention it, because the photo I posted clearly shows the two guys tied to the extention, and thought it was straight forward.

Thanks
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blt2ski View Post
ok, how does that saying go, "open mouth pickup foot insert"

I saw that, then look at his actual pic with the RF high clew, and went WTF!

the "loop can;t be too long so it will not go into the car sheave" went in one ear and out the other, or is that in the eyes, and out the ears!?!?!?!

So the loop will need to vary based on the clew hieght etc. OK,

Thank you.............

as I go off to bury my head in the sand!
This is why we ignore BLT. BLT, get back to the ignore threads where you belong!
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  #16  
Old 01-24-2009
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Hey, Giu. Thanks for this thread!
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  #17  
Old 01-24-2009
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I'd also like to know: any disadvantage in using a single genoa sheet with a lark's head/cow hitch/whatever tied at the sail?
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2009
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We ran a little 24' day racer for years with the RF jib's sheet as a single line, with the midpoint fed through the cringle and the two ends pulled through (whatever that's called! ).. worked great. That sort of setup tends to work best where the sheet is rarely removed/never from the sail.

This gets heavily loaded, of course, so the disadv. is its difficulty to remove in a hurry if that becomes necessary.
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Old 01-24-2009
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i only have one long sheet for my jib, i dont change lines on it and i have the knowledge that most new sailors will know which to grab when i say "that" one. if all the starboard sheets are red you cant really say grab the red one so color means nothing. i would also worry about a long bowline shaking loose on the loose line, it might never happen but once in bad weather is enough.
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Old 01-25-2009
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For years I have used a double length jib sheet.The center of the sheet is pushed through the clew and the two ends pulled through the bight then pulled tight.Doesn't catch on mast hardware when tacking and reduces the weight on the clew in light weather.I leave it on the sail when folding it .Requires re running the sheets for each sail change but it works for me.

Phil
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