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post #1 of 22 Old 07-11-2009 Thread Starter
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fiberglass repair

I posted on this a while ago but I am just now able to get started.


THe first question is, can I repair this without removing the hardware- if not, i could use some suggestions to get the hardware off.

The large countersunk stainless screws have double nuts on the back, i managed to force the outer ones off but they fought all the way and were too hot to touch when i finished. With just a screw slot to grab on I can't imagine how I'll get the inner nuts off.


So I'm considering whether or not a proper repair can be made with everything in place.

I figure I can push the glass back together with lots or epoxy, clamp it in place, and add reinforcing straps of epoxy and fiberglass cloth.

It's under a substantial load so I want some input as to whether or not this is sound thinking.

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post #2 of 22 Old 07-11-2009
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Clean it

Clean it up with a Dremel and smooth the edges. This roller should NEVER be under substantial load. Rollers are for transportation and stowage of an anchor not for anchirng use in rough conditions. When anchoring you should really run the rode through a bow chock and then to a cleat. For storage and transportation there should still be plenty of strength there.

It just looks as if the anchor shank has chipped the edges unless I am missing something in the photo..

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post #3 of 22 Old 07-11-2009 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
It just looks as if the anchor shank has chipped the edges unless I am missing something in the photo..

Not exactly, the whole mess stove in several inches, it has been pushed back almost to the correct position in the photos. The forestay also attaches to this massive hunk of metal. So i need the replicate the original strength.

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post #4 of 22 Old 07-11-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hertfordnc View Post
I'm considering whether or not a proper repair can be made with everything in place.

It's under a substantial load so I want some input as to whether or not this is sound thinking.
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Originally Posted by hertfordnc View Post
. . The whole mess stove in several inches, it has been pushed back almost to the correct position in the photos. The forestay also attaches to this massive hunk of metal. So i need the replicate the original strength.
If I read this correctly, this Anchor Roller also doubles a the Stem Piece. Thus it is under tremendous loads. In other words, if this fails you can loose your rig. Don't take any chances on this.
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Originally Posted by hertfordnc View Post
i could use some suggestions to get the hardware off.
Don't worry about saving the fasteners (screws and nuts) -- it would be prudent to replace them anyway.

Break off the nuts underneath and hammer out the screws with a drift pin. Of, if that fails, drill out the screws from the top down.

Then remove the fitting and do a proper repair.


The next time you're blissfully tacking into 10 foot seas and 40 kts of breeze, you'll relax knowing you took the time to do it right.
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post #5 of 22 Old 07-11-2009 Thread Starter
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OK, - any suggestions on where to order those screws? I've never seen stainless countersunk screws 1/2" X 2" in the bin at Ace Hardware.

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post #6 of 22 Old 07-11-2009
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if you can please get a pick showing the under side of it.

as for screws west marine has a good screw selection, and i would bet they have it. also look up fasteners in the yellow pages.

as for a repair, i wonder if you could get a plate made to fit up underneath it. then saturate the glass with thin epoxy, and coat the plate with thicken epoxy and bolt it in to place and thru the deck on the sides. the plate would be shaped like ( if this works )

___....... ___
....\ ......./
.....\____/ ignore the periods they are needed to keep the spacing

or how ever to fit tight, this would allow the stock screws to sandwich the glass between the plates and the upper wings could be bolted to the decl to spread the load out
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post #7 of 22 Old 07-11-2009
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OK, - any suggestions on where to order those screws? I've never seen stainless countersunk screws 1/2" X 2" in the bin at Ace Hardware.
Sorry, I get spoiled sometimes with the large selection of Marinas and Hardware stores in my area.

Try Bolt Depot - Nuts and Bolts, Screws and Fasteners online or Jamestown Distributors - Boat Building and Woodworking Supplies (or maybe even SailNet Store.)
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post #8 of 22 Old 07-11-2009
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Being an avid "do-it-yourselfer" myself, I applaud your spirit. After mucking up what I thought was a simple, non-structural fiberglass repair, I have learned that sometimes you need to get a professional involved.

First, from what I've read about fiberglass, more epoxy does not make a stronger bond. The strength is in fiberglass cloth.

Second, it appears there is a core material sandwiched in the fiberglass. Does this need to be built up or repaired?

I wonder what else may be going on under roller plate. Since you've already started removing fasteners, you might as well inspect the rest of this. As stated previously, marine quality fasteners are readily available.

Considering the structural importance of this repair, it might be prudent to at least get a professional, in person (no offense anybody) consultation.

I hate to spoil the party, but I'd really hate to see you lose your rig.

Greg
s/v Selkie
1972 Bristol 32, #64
"Our doubts are traitors,
And make us lose the good we oft might win
By fearing to attempt."
Shakespeare
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post #9 of 22 Old 07-12-2009
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You absolutely cannot patch up your busted bow with epoxy if the fg structural matrial is broken or cracked. You need to remove all fittings, cut out any cracked or broken glass, then grind back the material so there is adequate bonding space, then reglass, apply gelcoat and re-install fittings.

About 20 years ago, a yard did this job for me for $3000. You should consider very carefully whether you should take this on yourself.

Certified...in several regards...
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post #10 of 22 Old 07-12-2009 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingfool View Post

About 20 years ago, a yard did this job for me for $3000. You should consider very carefully whether you should take this on yourself.
Don't worry, this forum is not my only source of guidance. I have several mentors for the actual appliation of the glass when the time comes but I like to approach those guys with some sort of plan lest they argue amongst themselves how to advise me.

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