Are there any ideas anyone might have about blue water in a cat 22

[capt13]

I rode Hurricane Charley out in a 1979 24ft San Juan, in Ft. Myers Florida. Would I do it again? LOL NO WAY! The top of my mast was touching the water many times, The boat was thrown around like a rag doll. The only damage to the boat was a cracked hatch window. It took 5 years off my life though! That little san juan made it through a hurricane while boats that where 60ft long and $350.000 dollars more money laid cracked in half in front of Bonita bills in the back bay. I have had that same San Juan 24 out in all kinds of conditions, and lived on it for years. It is way sturdier than a cat22. I stayed with my boat cause it was my home, and all I had at that time. Looking back it wasn't worth my life. So you have to ask yourself is the trip worth your life? If it is then by all means make the trip, and I hope you make it. I am not trying to be mean, but I would try to find a bigger boat to make that trip. fair winds !

[thanatos]

no way. not even coast crusing unless very protected waters.

[drobarge]

And trust me, don't let some (NOT ALL) of the members here catch you with a smile on your face.

[AboardIndigo]

I suggest that you don't do it. I would do it in a smaller, but sturdier boat.

That being said, ignore the commentary about lockdown bolts and turtling/swing keel crashing down concerns. A common misconception is that the lock down bolt was to lock the keel in the hanging down position - it wasn't. The lock down bolt is to lock the keel in position against the side of the trunk, thereby ensuring the top of the keel/trunk interface is sharing the lateral prying load that the 4 keelbolts would otherwise take on their own. If the boat turtles, there is nothing that is going to stop the keel from crashing down into the trunk. Some people re-engineer this system by putting spacers on either side of the keel at the pin, and then by epoxying spacers in the area where the lockdown bolt goes. Same difference, for all intents and purposes. Bottom line is, you've got to keep the boat from turtling or you can kiss it good-bye.

Another thing you may want to check are the chainplate eyebolts - the originals are undersized (3/8" I believe) and are prone to leaking. This commonly results in crevice corrosion where they pass through the deck. At the least I would pull one and check on it's general condition, and second best would be to replace them with new 1/2" upgraded versions (best would be to choose a different boat).

If it's a pop-top version, forget about siliconing it. Get a 1/2" x 1" closed cell foam gasket, seal the top well with that, and then bolt the pop-top down in the closed position. You don't want to have to worry about one of the pop-top supports or undersized dogs pulling out and having the top go askew, in the midst of a hairy moment.

Another thing you should keep in mind is that if you're taking water over the side decks/coaming, it is going to start filling the cabin without the lower hatch board in. This is a fact. It is also a fact that if the board is only held in place by gravity that the board will float out of place.

Almost forgot - WRT the discussion about the leading edge of the rudder and reducing weather helm. This is true, and the easiest way to accomplish it is to fashion a 3/8" - 1/2" spacer out of wood or starboard and fasten it under the upper gudgeon.

There may be other things that'll percolate up through the grey (yes, grey) matter. I'll post again if it seems to have some value to it.