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  #1  
Old 12-11-2009
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Best Bottom Paint for Trailer Boats

I understand that the best bottom paint depends very much on where and how you use the boat. However, in addition to above, trailer boats present another problem. Most bottom paints require that the boat be put back in the water soon after application, otherwise the paint looses it's effectiveness.
On the other hand, trailer sailors often store the boat out of water for long periods and the process of loading rubs hard against the painted bottom, damaging many paints.

I have a 2001 Catlina 22 that I want to sell and I want to put it in the best appearance that I can. We previously kept this boat in water in the Chesapeake, but now it is on the trailer, where it will be presented for sale. When we pulled, we cleaned the bottom and it's ready for new paint, which we were going to apply just before it went back into the water. However, plans have changed and the bottom detracts from the boat's appearance on the trailer.

What long lasting paint have others used to keep both it's effectiveness and appearance when out of the water, but still be effective if the boat goes back into the water for a few weeks?
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Old 12-11-2009
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Anti-fouling paint for trailer sailor.

I used Pettit's VIVID. It's a little pricy but is a multi-season hard finish designed for trailer boats. Pettit Marine Paints - ViViD Bright Color Antifouling
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Old 12-11-2009
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i use vc-17 it can stay out indefinetly after application and the copper colored finish after fresh painting looks cool as hell, it eventually tarnishes to a very dark grey. also it does not require sanding to re-coat.
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Old 12-11-2009
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I like micron extra BUT after it gets wet it turns a different color and wipes off kind of like chalk on anything that touchs it

My friend uses Pettit's VIVID in white is has worked well and does not seem to rub off on everything that rubs it
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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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Thanks for the suggestions. I noticed at the Pettit website that they also make two other paints that can stay out of the water for long periods without loosing effectiveness: Hydrocoat (water based) and Horizons. Both are ablative. Vivid is a hard finish and I like that. That is the one I think I would use if I were going to keep the boat...since I am selling it, I can't decide which would be best...I'll have the yards give me a quote both ways (not going to do it myself) and the difference in paint cost may become a less significant issue.
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I like Top Secret one-part epoxy. Much cheaper than Petite (search on the internet for it).I've had it on a trailered sailboat for 4 years now and have no complaints. Its extremelly durable. The boat has one scratch where I tried to shortcut across an oyster bed but the bunk boards definitely dont scratch it up.

I was painting a Y-fler today with some of it. As cold as the shop is right now, it takes a full day to dry, but its a supepr glossy finish once it sets up.
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Old 12-13-2009
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I've used Hydrocoat for years. It's easy to work with and was effective against marine growth and slime for my boat(s) sailed on inland lakes.
My Catalina 25 would stay in the water from May to November - and be stored on a trailer the rest of the time.
Hydrocoat was still effective the following season.
(one suggestion: my first coat was red. The topcoats were blue. Whenever I see the red color beginning to appear, it was time for blue touchup).

Last edited by msl; 12-13-2009 at 08:51 AM. Reason: clarity.
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Old 12-13-2009
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Okay, now what I'm about to say is probably going to sound crazy, and I'm not convinced myself about it. But here goes.

I read an article where an experienced sailor who has used this material stands by it. The material? House paint. That's right, regular old, exterior acrylic house paint. Sounds counter intuitive, but he said it's as good as any marine paint, and better than most. And MUCH cheaper!

I'm a professional painter and have been for over 25 years. I've used lacquer, poly, latex, acrylic, oil, and many others. I used to be a luthier (one who builds and repairs guitars) so I know paints quite well. And yes, the way they are making house paints with many different polymers and other such chemical properties is impressive.

I painted the underside of the metal canopy of a Sonic drive-in restaurant one time. The old paint was flaking and hanging like leaves in the fall. As I always do, I used a good quality exterior acrylic. With paints of this sort, if a small dime sized drop is found dried on a smooth concrete floor, you simply remove it with a putty knife. As a rule, it pops off quite easily. On this particular job, though, we had put in the additive Emulsa-Bond.

As we were loading the spray rig, apparently a small dime sized drop had hit my cousin's concrete porch and dried there. When I noticed it a couple of days later, I tried to remove it with my putty knife like I always do. It's easy. Usually it just pops right up. Not this time. It wouldn't come up. I scraped and shoved the rather sharp edge of the knife against the edge of the drop, and it wouldn't so much as scar. I'm not kidding, I almost had to hit the back of the putty knife with a hammer to remove it! I finally got it up, but its stubborn resistance to separation from the porch impressed me. Enough to put it on the bottom of a boat? Well, I don't know. It just seems wrong to put house paint, additive or not, on a marine vessel.

I guess, when the time comes, I'll check into it further and see just how strong each material is, house paint included ... that is, when I get a boat.

By the way, we checked on the Sonic three years later and the paint looked like it had been done yesterday.
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Old 12-13-2009
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Old 12-13-2009
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Beautiful.
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