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  #11  
Old 09-06-2010
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insurance claim

My boat was hit by indirect strike seven years ago.Insurance was with boat u.s.The first thing they did was have the boat hauled,survery came the next day to look at bottom for holes and burns.All insturments and light bulbs burnedout also switchs on panel.Marina made estimate to repair,back in water three weeks later. Strange thing no wiring was burned up. Boat U.S took care of every thing.
Al
c34 hull#13
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2010
Alan Grand Slam Yacht
 
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I was on a Hunter that had been recently surveyed, with the surveyor going up the rig and indicating all was well with the mast, rig and shrouds, backstay, forestay, etc. A few days later we sent a qualified rigger up to replace an anchor litebulb and he said the boat will never make it out of the marina with sail up let alone back to Miami where she was headed. The Backstay had char marks about every six inches from the top of the stay down to about 10 fee off the deck. He said it was clearly the result of a lightning strike and the back stay was about ready to fail. How the surveyor missed this is beyond me.

So in addition to bottom, electronics, wiring, etc., have qualified personnel check the full rig with special attention to all standing rigging, tangs, turnbuckles, etc. before you sign off on an insurance claim.
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2010
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The boat must be HAULED and surveyed, and the insurer will want to send their own "adjuster" to examine and inventory the damage. Depending on your insurer, that may be a fully qualified marine adjuster, or someone from a car insurance company who is used to seeing powerboats hit by drunks.

So you need to set up the appointment with the insurer, and preferably make sure they are familiar with haul costs and will cover the type of haul you plan for. (Haul & stands? "Lunch" haul? whatever options you have, including ay extra cost if the adjuster doesn't show when the haul is booked.)

BEFORE THEN, I would suggest you do a stem-to-stern inspection of the boat, as if you were searching for drugs. Every electrical wire is suspect. Every fitting is suspect. The entire powertrain is suspect, the lightning can jump almost anywhere and burn or weld almost anything, so you need to TEST everything for operation. The adjuster may appreciate it if you hand him a list and say "All this is damaged" if it is extensive. Make sure he sees and lists every item that you have found, which may include pinholes in hull below the waterline. (Common with an encased keel.)

Go aloft, check the masthead. Or ask the insurer to have this done by a rigger, the odds are their adjuster is not going to go anywhere near it.

Pulleys, sheeves...rigging turnbuckles...don't assume anything is unscathed. And while I've never heard it mentioned, I'd also question the integrity of the standing rigging if that wire/cable had carried a strike.

Be a skeptic, lightning plays by its own rules.
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  #14  
Old 09-07-2010
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Good advice from all in the above posts.

Depending on the amount of your damages claim chances are good that your insurance rates will increase next year.

If your claim exceeds (pick a number), I'll say 75% of your insured hull value an insurer will often choose to 'total' the boat. In this case they will pay the insured value of the boat but they will then own the boat. You can choose to buy the boat back from them and then fix it up. The big problem with this scenario is it will be very difficult to obtain insurance again for a period of several years after this 'total' loss.

Since we don't know anything about your boat (size, make, year, insured value etc.) it is impossible to say whether to pursue your claim with the insurance co. or whether it might make sense to just pay for (some of) the repairs yourself.
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  #15  
Old 09-07-2010
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Having just been through this;

1) Have a COMPETENT marine electrician examine the vessel and write you a VERY DETAILED quote for repairs including labor, shipping, taxes etc. etc.

This is just a PORTION of the summary my marine electrician wrote up for me. He charged me for four hours which was well worth every penny.


Quote:
Below is a comprehensive description of the damages by item:

Garmin GPS MAP 3205C
– Unit powers on but will not recognize radome or GPS antenna. It also won’t access many menu items suggesting PC board issues. I also detected open circuits (no continuity) on cabling from radome to plotter and NEMA wiring. This unit and low current carrying wire needs to be replaced. The power harness and low voltage wires are one unit. I can still get you a 3205C and still feel strongly against using the newer Garmin GPS models as we discussed over the winter.

Garmin GMR18HD Radome – This unit needs to be replaced. These domes rarely if ever survive strikes like this and the GPS can’t see it indicating a failure. There is no warm up as well indication the power supply is also toast.

Garmin 182C – This unit located at the nav station reports an internal short meaning the PC board has been compromised. Unfortunately the 182C is no longer available and the comparable Garmin replacement is the GPS MAP 546.

Garmin GPS MAP 176 – This unit is dead and will not even turn on. Garmin no longer makes this unit and the suitable replacement is the GPS MAP 78sc. Installing a new unit with different shape/size will also require a new mounting system. This unit was not plugged into anything and likely suffered EMP damage.

Standard Horizon Matrix 2100AIS – The unit turns on with the circuit breaker and should not. Once on it will not turn off and functions including TX & RX are compromised. The on/off circuit is literally welded closed. Replace unit.

Standard Horizon CMP30 – The handheld mic is also compromised as it was plugged in at the time of strike. It too has loss of on/off capability and compromised abilities. It was also working at times then would turn off. Replace unit.

Raymarine Autopilot – The display reports Sea Talk failure but this is coming from the course computer where the board is dead. The RPS and head are also damaged based on impedance testing. There is no accurate way to tell if the fluxgate compass is working or not unless we get the AP working. Replacement of the entire unit is less money than the individual parts and this is my recommendation.

Raymarine AP Remote Control – The hand held remote display turns on but can’t locate the base station. It is connected through the fried Sea Talk system. Given the extent of damage it is highly likely this unit is also dead. We will not know until the new AP is installed for sure though. My recommendation is to replace it along with the AP to ensure no surprises. I have seen a shorted Sea Talk product fry the main buss when plugged into the system so it can be more expensive to not replace it.

ST-60 Depth – This unit is dead and the transducer is giving me incorrect test readings. This unit needs to be replaced which will require a short haul at Royal River Boat Yard or Handy Boat. Handy Boat is more expensive by about $80.00 but also much more convenient. This is a big job and will require removal of much of the starboard side furniture to re-run the t-ducer cabling.

ST-60 Speed – This unit was directly connected to the rest of the Sea Talk system and is also non-operational. Replace unit.

ST-60 Wind – This unit is also not working and I detected what appears to be no continuity in one of the mast wires, where I should see it. If the mast wire is indeed bad we will need to pull the spar. Replace the wind instrument.

Compass Light – The LED compass light is blown. Replace.

Fuel Gauge – The fuel gage is not operating correctly. The sending unit appears to be working within the correct resistance range but the gauge is not responding appropriately.



The above summary went on for 6 pages. If your marine electrician is not willing to do this level of estimation walk away and find a new one. The level of detail in the quote above led to not one disputed item.

2) Have insurance adjuster and marine electrician meet at the boat the same day so they are both in-line with each other.

3) Have a full out of the water hull and rig survey.

4) Wait for insurance company to issue payment and begin work.

5) Deductible may be more than you think. Mine was over 3k but I had 18k in damage.

6) EVERYTHING electronic should be replaced now. It will eventually fail. The few items I had still working after the strike died within days and also had to be replaced.
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  #16  
Old 09-07-2010
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As I said above—If the insurance company isn't paying for a survey, I'd switch companies. Lightning can do massive damage through out a boat, and a survey after being hit by lightning is generally a wise idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine Sail View Post
Having just been through this;

1) Have a COMPETENT marine electrician examine the vessel and write you a VERY DETAILED quote for repairs including labor, shipping, taxes etc. etc.

This is just a PORTION of the summary my marine electrician wrote up for me. He charged me for four hours which was well worth every penny.
....
The above summary went on for 6 pages. If your marine electrician is not willing to do this level of estimation walk away and find a new one. The level of detail in the quote above led to not one disputed item.

2) Have insurance adjuster and marine electrician meet at the boat the same day so they are both in-line with each other.

3) Have a full out of the water hull and rig survey.

4) Wait for insurance company to issue payment and begin work.

5) Deductible may be more than you think. Mine was over 3k but I had 18k in damage.

6) EVERYTHING electronic should be replaced now. It will eventually fail. The few items I had still working after the strike died within days and also had to be replaced.
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2012
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Re: Insurance Claim

Thanks to all for your advice, all fitted for what happens later.

I was paid in a very short time on the basis of the estimate
After 3 days from the first contact the money was on my account.

All what you said was true, the old radio was paid at 30%.
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