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Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest > General Discussion (sailing related)
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  #11  
Old 10-27-2010
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Wish I never found SN!
 
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You will be surprised how quick; cheap and fast damaged and rusty plates can be removed and replaced. I have seen a 40 footer replated from the waterline down to the keel due to severe electrolysis in just over a week.
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I love my boat
S/V GOODONYA
Brisbane
present location Heading to the Whitesundays

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DELIVERY SKIPPER
Drinking Rum before 10am makes you a Pirate NOT an alcohlic
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  #12  
Old 10-27-2010
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I was looking for few weeks to find answer. Why not stainless steel?
Could not find it. It could be the price or welding difficulty. Aluminum do not rust, but does crack under stress and electrolysis issue is bigger that in steel.
Steel boat require more maintenance, but then is more safe. I take the safe.
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  #13  
Old 10-27-2010
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Stainless steel does not fare well when submersed in water for long periods of time. The lower grades suffer from chloride ION stress corrosion. Even the best grades don't do all that well in salt water.

The best metal to make boat hulls from is a cupro-nickel alloy. It is fairly strong and also does not require anti-fouling paint as a rule. It is rarely used due to the expense of the material. Some commercial ships are made using it to minimize long term maintenance costs. It is also far more resistant to galvanic corrosion issues than aluminum or steel boats are.
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New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

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  #14  
Old 10-27-2010
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Really, your best bet is to have it trucked.

Sailing, you only have 3 options.

Friendly: Down the West coast, through the Panama Canal, and back up through the gulf

Not Friendly: Keep heading south, and around Cape Horn.

Wacky: Just head west out of WA. You'll hit Florida eventually.

If that boat is "the one", then your best bet is to truck it home. Otherwise you are stuck in WA refitting it before a very long sail. Or stuck in TX refitting it before a gulf passage.
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  #15  
Old 10-27-2010
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Just wander, if I isolate the power cords from hull, would that slow down electrolysis process. I saw some of the wiring and the hull was "common ground". I would run heavy water tight isolation.
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  #16  
Old 10-27-2010
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Do you work? If so, sailing from the west coast to the east coast will be costly in that you will not be earning income for that time period, which will be several months.
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  #17  
Old 10-27-2010
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Truck it to Texas and sail from there.
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  #18  
Old 10-27-2010
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northern

There is also the option of going around the north end but it's not easy.
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Hey, can one of you guys pass me a crab?


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  #19  
Old 10-27-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DwayneSpeer View Post
There is also the option of going around the north end but it's not easy.
and only open for very limited periods of time....
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Telstar 28
New England

You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take
a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps
her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.

—Cpt. Mal Reynolds, Serenity (edited)

If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... please read this
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
.

Still—DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
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  #20  
Old 10-27-2010
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Try UShip.com

I looked in to these folks when I was considering a Great Lakes boat. You have the opportunity to check their ratings and they bid on the haul job. Looks like you can save big $. Good luck

No personal experience with them. Only know what I read.
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Freedom F38 #154
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