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Cuba in my sights

21K views 123 replies 44 participants last post by  canucksailorguy 
#1 ·
If I wanted to make a stop in Cuba while on a cruise how hard would it be?
I would like to see the island but I am not sure if all the hoops you jump through are worth it.
Anyone ever stopped there for any length of time?:D
 
#37 ·
I am a US citizen and I was in Havana about this time last year. The government and the people both love to have us there.

It is our government that has the issues with us going there. Remember this that when you do leave if you head in any direction remotely close to a direction that will lead you into US water you will be boarded.

Visiting the country was one of the most memorable times of my life. I look forward to the next time I can return.
 
#38 ·
So it would seem the best way to approach a Cuba trip is make it the first or second stop on a more extended cruise to other, government-approved Caribbean destinations to avoid many of the issues associated with approaching and entering the US from Cuba. Douglas and Bernadette Bernon did just this leaving on their cruise on Ithaka, albeit 10 years ago. Their account of sailing to Cuba is available here, I haven't read it in a while but seem to recall it references the government issues, at least on the Cuba side of things. Hope this is useful: BoatUS Cruising Logs
 
#39 ·
There is no debate that it is illegal for a US citizen to travel to Cuba for tourism, despite whether some get away with it. I don't pick and choose which laws I will and will not follow, whether I like them or not. You are free to make your own choices.

Cuba

ENTRY / EXIT REQUIREMENTS, TRAVEL TRANSACTION LIMITATIONS: The Cuban Assets Control Regulations are enforced by the U.S. Department of the Treasury and affect all U.S. citizens and permanent residents wherever they are located, all people and organizations physically located in the United States, and all branches and subsidiaries of U.S. organizations throughout the world. The regulations require that persons subject to U.S. jurisdiction be licensed in order to engage in any travel-related transactions pursuant to travel to, from, and within Cuba. Transactions related to tourist travel are not licensable. This restriction includes tourist travel to Cuba from or through a third country such as Mexico or Canada. U.S. law enforcement authorities enforce these regulations at U.S. airports and pre-clearance facilities in third countries. Travelers who fail to comply with Department of the Treasury regulations could face civil penalties and criminal prosecution upon return to the United States.
 
#40 ·
Yes, but that refers to "TRAVEL TRANSACTIONS", or worded alternately, spending money while there, and not to travel itself. Per technical wording of the law, one can technically go there legally by boat and not spend money, bringing all of your food, etc etc and not purchasing souvenirs while in the country. However, US Customs will assume you must have spent money there if you were there unless you can prove otherwise, a "guilty until proven innocent" situation. One of the often referenced solutions to this is to take on a Canadian crew member and have this person make all purchases and have proof in form of receipts, etc, to that extent.
All of this being said, certainly the safest course is to wait and see what happens now given the position of our government and the newish leadership in Cuba.
 
#41 ·
That is too risky a situation for my blood. Further, the linked site that I provided above has this.

"Cuba has announced that as of May 2010 it will start requiring visitors to have non-U.S. medical insurance, and will sell a temporary policy to those who do not have it."

Not sure how a US citizen is going to keep from spending money there, if that is even an appropriate interpretation. I even wonder if the money you spent on your boat/fuel, etc to show up counts.

Also, remember that you are subject to Cuban law when on their soil. That is standard international law. Should you find yourself in an accident, even if not your fault, or a bind of some kind, who are you going to reach out to for help? Will you call the "Special Interests section" which operates under the authority of the Swiss government, because we do not have an embassy there? First question from them.... what are you doing here?

This is just all too much for my risk tolerance.
 
#43 ·
OK, I'll offer some comments, based on my own experience cruising Cuba back in 2003, one year before President Bush issued his very tough proclamation restricting sailing to Cuba…

In an effort to be able to claim we spent no money there, we obtained travel visas in advance through the Cuban Interests Section of the Swiss Embassy in Washington… they cost roughly twice what one would pay upon arrival in Cuba, of course… Only problem is, Cuba has a departure fee, so despite whatever measures you take - getting the BS letter from the Club Nautico at Marina Hemingway saying you were "hosted", and whatnot, that departure fee is the one thing you might have difficulty convincing our State Dept. you managed to circumvent…

I did manage to avoid it, I just pulled a runner when I sailed out of Baracoa… One look at the local Patrol Boat, I knew they weren't gonna be chasing me, I doubt they had any fuel for the POS, anyway…

We sailed to Havana direct from Key West, without the supposedly required Security Zone clearance… No problem, it was blowing big out of the NE, we were the only fools out there that day…

Check in in Havana was very straightforward, but extremely tedious, as is dealing with officialdom in Cuba invariably is… One of the best examples of how little they have, most times when officials came aboard to do the reams of paperwork, they had to BORROW a pen or pencil of mine to perform their duties… they were always extremely grateful for the gift of a writing instrument at the end of business… Surprisingly, the only time in all my dealings with officials throughout Cuba anyone so much hinted at a gift "in consideration for their services", was from the doctor who did the medical inspection of the boat in Havana…

Perhaps the biggest misconception about sailing to Cuba, is that a considerable number of Americans were doing it, at least at that time…. My understanding is, there was a bit of a chill in the wake of Bush's proclamation for a year or so, but things quickly returned to normal…

That's not to say many mom & pop cruisers were doing so, however… Most American visitors were of considerable means, lots of 2 million dollar sportfishermen, and so on… Tommy Hilfiger's 170' Benetti TOMMY stayed in Marina Hemingway for weeks, apparently confident Bush was not gonna confiscate someone's $25 million yacht… I've heard that refrain repeatedly from the sportfishing crowd, many of whom simply store their boats in Havana to avoid the obscene marina fees of Key West, and top off with that cheap Chavez diesel…

I had no trouble traveling within Cuba, I rented a car for several days from a resort in Guardalavaca, when I stopped in Puerta Vita… Explored the local countryside, and drove down to Santiago, fascinating travel… Who knows what would have happened if I'd had an accident, but I doubt it would have been as catastrophic had something gone equally wrong halfway across the Gulf Stream on my way there... (grin) Nothing money, or maybe some trinket like my snazzy Seiko chronograph wouldn't have been able to fix, would be my guess...

Another misconception, is that we have no diplomatic relations with Cuba… Well, that may be the official line, but one of the few modern buildings in downtown Havana is a 12 story edifice that is very heavily guarded by police. Don't even THINK about pulling out a camera when you're within sight of that building, no need to ask me how I know this… (grin) But, one thing all the Americans visiting Cuba soon learn - if you lose your passport while in Cuba, that's the place you're gonna head for…

Finally, don't even THINK for a moment that your visit to Cuba might go undetected… A couple of days at Marina Hemingway, you'll soon recognize the local "mole" who strolls the grounds noting the new arrivals, his movements were as predictable as clockwork… And, the Straits of Florida are among the most heavily surveiled waters anywhere on earth… Not only will someone in the US intelligence community know you sailed either to or from Cuba, they probably know what book you were reading in the cockpit enroute… (grin)

Whether they actually CARE, of course, is another matter… I have two clients who took their own boats to Cuba, and received the letter from the State Department eventually… They simply chose to ignore them, and never heard anything further… YMMV, of course, but in this area I suspect our government is largely mostly bark, and little bite - just my own hunch, of course…

Just my own opinion, no one should construe this as any sort of advice, but I think there is currently little risk for an American to visit Cuba, as part of an extended, continuing cruise to other parts of the Caribbean basin, or when a return to America is not in the immediate offing Visiting Cuba, then returning directly to the States, could quite possibly be a whole different ballgame, and a chance that - personally - I would not take at this time…

One closing comment of a political nature, if I may… One would really have to be blind to spend much time in Cuba, and fail to appreciate the consequences of our policy/embargo of the beautiful people of that beautiful country… Each country shares the blame, of course, but I really hope we someday soon wind up with an American President with the sort of vision Nixon demonstrated with his overture to China… It would be a wonderful, magnanimous, long-overdue gesture of a great Statesman, to put aside the petty political considerations of a small bloc of voters at home, and simply declare "You know, I think it's time that the Castros and I sat down and had a little TALK…" Truly pathetic, that a country as great as America, can't seem to bring itself to extend such a modest olive branch to one of our closest neighbors in this hemisphere…

The brief encounter I had with the 3 gentlemen pictured below remains one of my most memorable of my time in Cuba. That is in the lookout tower at Morro Castle, overlooking the entrance to Havana harbor… Those men represent three generations of the same family, the grandfather had been manning that post for over half a century, the radar they were using appeared to be just about as old…

On the right in the background, you can see a series of shelves that house the flags of most of the nations of the world. It is customary at this station, whenever foreign ship enters Havana, they hoist the flag of the visitor's country in salute…

The old man spoke no English, and my high school Spanish is mostly forgotten, but fortunately his son and grandson spoke quite good English… They made it clear, that if the patriarch could have one wish granted in the time that was left to him, it would be to have the honor of hoisting the Stars and Stripes for the first American ship to sail into Havana since the revolution…

I think if I could have a couple of minutes alone with an American President, that might very well be the story I'd share…

 
#45 ·
Thanks also Jon

It is a shame that for some reason we here in America are everywhere on this planet but in our own Hemisphere.
We are so worried about the pacific and Bosnia and Western Europe we have forgotten the there is a continent and many many countries on our own side of the planet.
 
#47 · (Edited)
It seems that now, as we speak, here on this subject, much truth is being brought out about Cuba. Many classified documents from our government are right out there to be read, by all, as they have been released by our government and by the Cuban government recently. Some apparently relate to Wikileaks. Read for yourself, from some of our governments very own documents, about some of the underhanded tactics involved, and find out what this government was up to back then. We have never been told the total truth.

Google - Cuba documents released. Especially interesting are the documents associated with our "Operation Northwoods"
 
#50 ·
I have Sailed to Cuba six times

One of the best places I have been in the world, people are fantastic, city is like said on this forum breathtaking.

It will be a sad day when star bucks sells trash garbage coffee on the streets of Havana but it will happen,

Go to Cuba if you can as fast as you can, period end of story. Last trip sailed a Pearson Triton alone to Cuba. it was to ruff to go into Marina Hemingway, the Cubans let me sail past Morrow Castle into the Havana Harbor, along came a ancient diesel sub in the Harbor. Like in the movies,.

My Cuban friends are great, it is said at least one person is lost at sea every day in an attempt to get to America, I think its is true so sad.

On my return to Key West, a Cuban Gun boat with defector military men tied up to the wharf, they threw their guns on shore and asked for directions to the police, classic just classic.

God Speed go just go

Popeye

Good luck
 
#53 ·
It's very difficult to get information, charts and cruising guides for Cuba. Here is one source and while the guides mentioned in the website will not be available for the foreseable future questions can be asked. Cuba Cruising Guides, Sailing resources for Cuba
Cuba IMHO will not open up to US citizens as long as the Castros control Cuba. Those opposed to opening Cuba are far more powerful (afterall the assinated a president) and organized than the handful of disorganized tourists and/or cruisers who wish to go there. One or two people are not going to sway the government and so in the meantime I think it would be foolish for an American citizen to go to Cuba.
I also believe the US needs to take a look at the morality of persecuting a people who actually have done nothing to them.
 
#54 ·
I have been to Cuba several times but never by boat. There are Americans there you just cant get a direct flight. Most Americans go through Mexico city. They do not stamp your passport in Cuba so no issue there. The risk is from the US Govt not Cuba. I have traveled extensively through the island and found the people very warm and friendly and have never had any problems with locals or the police. I have found Americans at most of the places I have been to on the island. Marina facilities are few and far between.
 
#55 ·
....The risk is from the US Govt not Cuba.....
This is not entirely correct. You are subject to Cuban law while you are in their country. That is the same for any country you visit. You will have a very unique problem if you get in an accident or accidentally break a law. Do you know their laws, by the way? What if you boat breaks free and damages a Cuban's property? There is no embassy there to help you. American's traveling legally to Cuba are required to register with the Swiss Embassy, but you can't if you are not supposed to be there.
 
#56 ·
You are quite correct and I wasnt advocating entering the country illegally or breaking any laws just saying that while in Cuba Americans have little to fear as the Cubans are not out to get you unlike some other places. They are more likely to be hassled by their own government than by the police in Cuba while traveling on a US passport.
 
#57 ·
I keep seeing Americans on TV that have holdings there. I was watching PBS and the Anchor talked with an American that had a ranch and herd of cattle there. So there are people there working against the American policy.
Probably few and far between though.
 
#59 ·
Unfortunately this discussion has rambled somewhat, so here is back to the nautical aspect.

Having sailed to and around Cuba for several winters since 2008, I find there are two ways to go.

If you have money and own a 60ft or bigger crewed motor yacht, go to Hemingway. There were three of them there Christmas-New Years 2009-10, one registered Fort Lauderdale, one from Newport and one from Delaware plus a large motor sailer from New Orleans (he had a Cuban wife).

If you don't have financial clout, go through the Raggeds (Duncantown) in the Bahamas to Baia la Vita in Holguin cruise Cuba for two months, one month visa renewed once (stay far off Guantanamo, the CG comes out even if you are 5 miles off and if they do, say you are going to Jamaica), do the south shore islands to Cayo Largo and head back to the Bahamas through Baia La Vita. The snorkling is fantastic and the beaches are paradise (but you have to find them, most islands are mangrove). Your paperwork will show only that you have been in the Bahamas. We have never had problems on returning to Florida. (I hope no one in homeland security monitors this).

For a short two week cruise, go from Baia La Vita to Baracoa and back. Rent scooters to visit the countryside or hire a driver.

The crossing from the Bahamas to Cuba is by far the most comfortable, with the Bahama current, no wind against current. The only really rough part is the return along the southern shore from Cabo Cruz to Punto Maisi with strong headwinds. It is not called the Windward passage for nothing. There are few anchorages along this shore, but there are harbors every 60 miles or so. We always motor sail back, port tack out in the morning and starboard tack back inshore in the afternoon as the wind shifts from northwest to southwest during the day.

As for charts, admittedly they are hard to obtain, but with GPS chips for the off shore work (they are based on old US surveys and are not accurate for inshore) you can keep track of your general position. I use Nigel Calder's guide, it has excellent and detailed inshore charts and if you take their coordinates for way points, they are dead on. Simon Charles' guide is more enterntaining than useful.

Yes, now they charge $ 3 per day for medical insurance. Don't bother with US bank or credit cards, because of the embargo they don't (or wont) work. Cash, US $, Can $ or Euros are no problem for exchange at the CADECA. Public internet, limited to the larger towns and hotels, is slow and expensive ($ 6 per hour). So bring your pretyped texts on a USB.

Don't sweat officialdom, they are awfully friendly and considerate (they even put on socks to cover their boots when they come on board). I have never seen US officials do the same. And the cocker spaniels for drug inspections are cute. Just have the paperwork ready and they do the rest. Unlike Bermuda, it is one stop shopping.

As for repair work, Cubans are very ingenious and industrious. Once when out rudder jumped the gudgeon and the rudder stock was bent in a fierce northerly (unexpected), they took it out and repaired it. The only difficulty as finding stainless steel (we took a collection amongst the foreign boats there and they re manufactured the fitting).

AH, don't forget, you won't get good marine weather forecasts in Cuba. So subscribe to a short wave service before.

Finally, US insurance firms do not cover claims in Cuba, get coverage from a UK firm.
 
#60 ·
Thanks Geor9ges

That's what I am looking for. Especially the tips and resources like Nigel Calders for charts.

What's it like running around in Cuba on a scooter? Anything like you see on TV in France or Italy? I was in china and a red light means go and a green light go faster if you know what I mean.
 
#61 ·
The scooters can be rented at all hotels but they are little 49cc's so they don't go much over 30 MPH. There are not that many traffic lights in Cuba, but vehicles tend to obey signs. Cuba, by the way, is a very safe country, lgical since ther are lots of police and military. Marinas have excellent security.
 
#63 ·
I think it's extremely naĂŻve for anyone visiting Cuba by yacht to assume they can avoid detection by heading to Puerto Vita through the Jumentos, for instance… The only realistic assumption to make is that someone working for Uncle Sam will know you've visited Cuba… the waters surrounding eastern Cuba and the Windward Passage are very closely watched, that's the area any traffic from Jamaica or Haiti will be transiting, after all…

Years ago I heard an eye-opening story from a guy who worked drug interdiction for the Coast Guard, was the radar operator on an AWACS type aircraft… One night they were tracking a go-fast boat approaching the Caymans, but it was a squally night with heavy thunderstorms, and the guy lost contact… After a minute or so, he notified his pilot on the intercom that he had momentarily lost the guy, and was unable to re-acquire him…

After a brief interval, they heard what could only be described as "the voice of God" on their frequency: "Son, your target is at…" and read off the coordinates, speed and heading, etc…

The crew had no idea precisely where that transmission came from, though they had their hunches, of course…

The point being, our government's surveillance and intelligence gathering capabilities in that region are astonishing, and it would be foolish for anyone approaching Cuba from the north to assume they might pass undetected… Now, what an observer will do with such information is an entirely different matter, and I obviously based on my personal experience, they simply either declined to pass the fact I had visited Cuba on to the appropriate agency, or the State Department declined to act upon it…
 
#65 ·
Cuba, no problem

We were in La Habana in Dic 2010, Marina Hemingway.
Our boat sail with EEUU flag, from Dry Tortuga directly to La Habana.
Of course we must do all the things with our passports and boat papers but nothing append. If you don have Visa you can have one in the marina when you arrive, US$ 14. each and you can stay with the boat there during two years.
You must have a new visa each 60 days.
The problem with Cuba, is the spears or something you need for the boat.
You cant find nothing. The cuban people are very kidness and they need help specially the kids, chocolates and pencils are welcome.
Don worry if you need to go to Cuba, do it.
Cayo Largo is a nice marina, I can recomended.
The tarifs are cheaper than USA.
 
#68 ·
I personnaly believe it is irresponsible for anyone to suggest that a US citizen should go to Cuba without proper authorization. Oh, you might get away with it but the consequences if you get caught are too dire. If US citizens really want to go to Cuba then do it right. Work on the government to lift travel restrictions.
 
#72 ·
This isn't sailing related, but it is about Cuba and water - underwater...

I was in Cuba in March and got to do some diving.

The diving isn't the best that I've ever done (Pacific Northwest holds that distinction), but I did get up close and personal with some bull sharks.

All of the stills and most of the video is mine. Some of the underwater video was shot and edited by Yordanis Mendez 5 (the videographer from the dive shop).

I hope you enjoy.

 
#76 ·
Has anyone suggested just going LEGALLY?????

It's legal for a journalist to go to cuba. So pick a story, go to Cuba and write or photograph it. Just do it legally and through the state department up front, with official permission.

I think maybe ppl are over-thinking the problem. It really is like a seatbelt law, just wear the damned belt.
 
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