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post #1 of 9 Old 05-09-2003 Thread Starter
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hose connections

Has anyone used 5200 in addition to two clamps to secure a hose that must not leak?

I am replacing a holding tank hose that will be very hard to get to if it should come loose and I am looking for a fool proof solution.

All thoughts and comments appreciated.

Mike
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-09-2003
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hose connections

Seems to me a hose will eventually weaken and fail with age, especially if it''s in a place subject to high temperatures (like the engine room). If you use 5200, you will not be able to remove the hose when the time comes to replace it.
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-09-2003 Thread Starter
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hose connections

The hose would be connected to screw-in barbs. My plan was to just unscrew the barbs and throw them out with the hose when the time came.
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-09-2003
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hose connections

You have a number of hoses on your boat that "must not leak". All hoses below the water line, including your prop shaft/packing seal hose, could potentially cause the boat to sink. These hoses are typically double clamped with a good grade of stainless clamp. The double clamp apparently does the job as you seldom hear of boats sinking because of hose failure.

Of course some inevitably do as some owners never check the condition anything until it fails after years and years of neglect.

On a holding tank the worst thing that can happen is a nasty mess.

I would go with a good double clamp on the hose and not worry about it.
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-16-2003
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hose connections

I agree with joub, and one other thing. The best way to remove a hose from a barb is to cut it lenght wise with a sharp pointed knife just the length of the barb (at the barb) and then just cut that section off and reinstall when ready with a fresh end. If it is wire reinforced a dramel grinder with a disk cutter works good. Just don''t go too deep.
Short pieces of hose, just throw away. Longer hoses should always have a little extra for re-doing ends.
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-17-2003
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hose connections

The assembly is just as likely to leak at the screw-in barb to tank flange connection, as at the hose to barb connection.
Properly installed, the problem is usually getting the hose off the barb (as said, you cut it).
I''m not as afraid of ''5200''as some, but wouldn''t use it here.
General caution: Anytime you deem a part expendable, make certain you HAVE it''s replacement (not "can get" it).
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Gord
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-20-2003
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hose connections

I''m now in the process of removing my hoses from the over board discharge valves. what a night mare someone used silicone to seal all the threaded hose connections and and the hoses to these,At some point, and for some reason you might have to remove one of these conections, do yourself a favor double clamp the hose connections and use teflon tape on all your threaded fittings. there is no great amount of PSI put on these fittings.
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-22-2003
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hose connections

Double clamp don''t mess with 5200 by the way a neat trick to use putting on and takeing off is heat the hose first it will slide over the barbs
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-29-2003 Thread Starter
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hose connections

Thanks for the info. I used a hair dryer to make the hose pliable. Worked great.

Installed everything with two clamps except a check valve. Could only get one clamp on each side so decided to use 5200 there, only.

Now that I have done this for the first time, I can''t imagine how a hose could come off even without clamps because the fit is so tight.

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