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post #1 of 5 Old 01-04-2011 Thread Starter
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rigging a 31 niagra

hello all, newbie here,,, have some questions about rigging???

1. My boat curently has rod rigging. THe forward stay was ever so slighly damaged and now has a sliht bend in it. les than one inch deflection but about first 7 feet has a few back to back bends and the plastic sail track,,, if that is what it is called,,, where the head sail would slide into is missing. Could i use hanks and remove the plastic rail system,,, is the plastic system easy to find localy, new orleans la area,,, can you use a roller on that type of system. what is the proper name for that system.

2. The rear stay has been cut. the original attachment point is in direst center of boat, were you would board. I have seen other sail boats that use two points of attachment for the rear stay one on either side, that go up 6 to 8 feet and make an arch, then the back stay fastens to that center point of arch,,, could i do that, plan on usuing reinforcement under the fibercass deck, maybe 4"x4" alluminum plate under the deck, then mount point of attachment through hull and alluminum,,, or maybe even alluminum flat bar that spans the entire distance and tie into original center location... Can i replace the rod stays with stainless wire rope,,, 3/8 or maybe 5/16. 3/8 load test at 10600lbs and 5/16 is 8900 lbs.

any help or input would be greatly appreciated,,, thanks,,,,
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post #2 of 5 Old 01-04-2011
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THe forward stay (head stay)

The rod always tries to roll back into a circle to some extent when its lose but should become perfectly straight under tension and if not its damaged in a bad way

The track on the rod the sail slides into is a know as a headfoil sold by many companys but hanks would work fine

The rod is used becasue its stronger in a given size than wire THE BIG ISSUE with changing is differance in how the rod connects to the mast and the cost of cchanging those parts

Rod Size Diameter (mm) Equivalent
Wire Size Weight (lb./ft.)
-4 4.4 7/32" .079
-6 5.0 1/4" .105
-8 5.7 9/32" .136
-10 6.4 5/16" .168
-12 7.1 3/8" .212
-17 8.4 7/16" .293
-22 9.5 1/2" .378
-30 11.1 9/16" .513
-40 12.7 5/8" .672
-48 14.3 3/4" .848
-60 16.8 7/8" 1.170

1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

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1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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Last edited by tommays; 01-04-2011 at 09:00 AM.
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post #3 of 5 Old 01-04-2011
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I would call Rob, aka Spedo:
Ex parts manager for C&C, Hinterholler Yachts and ask those questions. He maintains the spec manuals and a parts inventory for those boats. His advice would be valuable.

Robert MacLachlan
South Shore Yachts Inc.
905-468-4340 office
905-658-8454 Cel
Dealer of Bavaria Yachts, Contest Yachts and C&C Parts
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post #4 of 5 Old 01-04-2011
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Did you run into a bridge? The rod, if it has any kinks in it, needs to be replaced. (Curves, due to it simply being loose, are different.) You will want to talk to a rigger about that, and about splitting the backstay over the transom to allow access. Depending upon their lengths, you may be able to avoid having to buy a new forestay by switching your forestay & backstay. You could then shorten the "new" backstay (old forestay) by cutting out the damaged section, and then add the split below that. Beefing up the corners of the transom with fiberglass - beyond just adding a backing plate - may be required. Nothing on a boat is as simple as you'd think it should be.
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post #5 of 5 Old 01-04-2011 Thread Starter
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thanks paulk, that might be the way to go,,, but if it is rod rigging, when cut to length for new back stay, how would i fasten turn buckles,,, have an eye welded to the rod stay???
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