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  #11  
Old 01-17-2011
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Dean,

The likelihood that you would really need to take a third reef on a Maine to Nova Scotia trip in July is pretty small.

The way I would interpret what your sailmaker (Hallett? Looks like his logo on the sails in your picture; nice Cape Dory, btw) is saying is as follows:

Go ahead and use a cheek block to pull the third clew reefing line in, but once you've got the sail down to the boom, do not rely on that reefing line to hold the sail -- rather take a strong piece of webbing or line and tie it thru the reef cringle and around the boom, then ease the reef line so that this new lashing carries the load.

That said, if you can gain access to the inside of your boom (is the end open, or can you remove an end cap? Is it big enough that you can reach your arm down inside it?), then why not go ahead and try through-bolting the cheek block, with large fender washers if not a more solid backing plate.
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  #12  
Old 01-17-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCP View Post
That makes sense In my previous boat I used also the Goiot reefing blocks. With one of those that problem mentioned by the sailmaiker regarding the possibility of a failing block is not an issue because the Goiot block is inside the clew "ring".
Paulo, in the OP's case the sailmaker is not concerned with the block or cringle on the sail failing, rather he is concerned with the cheek block on the boom failing. On the OP's boat, I gather, the reefing line is tied to the boom, runs up through the cringle on the sail, down to a cheek block on the side of the boom, and then forward to a reefing winch near the forward end of the boom (at least that's the way it was rigged on my Dad's Cape Dory).
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catamount View Post
Go ahead and use a cheek block to pull the third clew reefing line in, but once you've got the sail down to the boom, do not rely on that reefing line to hold the sail -- rather take a strong piece of webbing or line and tie it thru the reef cringle and around the boom, then ease the reef line so that this new lashing carries the load.
That's fine for holding the reef clew down, but not for keeping it back. If you're putting in a second or third reef you probably want to flatten the sail in addition to shortening it. A set of blocks in the aft end of the boom (outhaul, first reef, second reef, third reef) allow you to hold the clews down AND back to depower the sail. There is certainly value to a safety line through the clew and around the boom but I would never ease the reefing line.
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2011
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I run 3 reefs on Gallivant she is easy driven and off shore in 30 knots we run the third reef and the storm jib.
We swap the first reef line to the third reef for off shore work this makes the first reef an big step (to the second reef).
Your sail cloth has to be up to the task which yours may not.
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2011
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Dog,

Thanks for the tip on the Goiot reefing blocks. I'll be checking them out.


I agree with Catamount that you are unlikely to need a third reef headed Maine to Nova Scotia, assuming your doing a summer trip. I've burned more diesel on that passage than anything else
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2011
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We have a third reef... North of Annapolis installed it for us and it was a regular thing for them. Ours gives us 45% of the main (approximately). We use two line reefing for all three of our reefs, led back to the cockpit. We have a heavy Schaefer cheek block on the boom with oversized screws, and we said "screw weight aloft" and went with a heavy running line for the third reef. We've actually never used it (when we were in 70kts of wind a couple of years ago we reefed to our second reef and ran in front - in retrospect, a third reef would have been a smart idea as we exceeded 9kts of boatspeed on a vessel with a theoretical maximum of 7kts - and that was with very little wave action i.e. we weren't surfing down a wave). Anyway, we do like to know it's there.
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Old 01-17-2011
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Man! Thanks all. I really appreciate all of the input.
Dean
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVAuspicious View Post
That's fine for holding the reef clew down, but not for keeping it back. If you're putting in a second or third reef you probably want to flatten the sail in addition to shortening it. A set of blocks in the aft end of the boom (outhaul, first reef, second reef, third reef) allow you to hold the clews down AND back to depower the sail. There is certainly value to a safety line through the clew and around the boom but I would never ease the reefing line.
I agree that you need some way to apply outhaul tension.
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  #19  
Old 01-17-2011
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My .02

Well, I am a fan of 3 reefs. At least on heavier boats. Seems like they are able to keep the main up w/ three reefs and have enough "heft" to not get tossed around as roughly. Been there done that on a 36000 # Swan.

AFA the reefs in the OP. my sailmaker tells me "traditionally" reefs are at 12.5%, 25%, 37.5% of luff length. I might go 15, 30, 45 if I were going in areas of significant tradewinds. Or at least have the 3rd reef a little deeper, like 40-45%. But that's just my gut instinct.

AFA the cheek block. Well, again, on the Swan 48 that's how it was rigged. Once you went to the second reef, you moved the first reefing line to the third reefing cringle. The reefing lines went through a cheek block on the boom and then fwd. They provided enough BACK tension to keep the sail taut, but also provided good DOWN pull so the sail was down on the boom. I have been on some boats that just lead the reefing lines to the sheaves on the end of the boom and they just don't pull DOWN enough. You can only get the sail down to the boom by luffing up and using a sail tie to tie the cringle down the rest of the way. (which, btw you should always do anyway in case the reefing line parts.) And they do sometimes! BTDT2!
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  #20  
Old 01-17-2011
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Yes - the cheek block should be about a foot aft of where the third reef cringle is to provide for both "downhaul" and "outhaul" functions.
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