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  #11  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treilley View Post
I don't know why folks find this difficult. Why some of the yard monkeys can get away with this is purely the function of an uneducated or uncaring owner.

It is really not that hard. I did my own cover this year. It has an air gap at the toe rail and I have never seen a drop of condensation. Even when I had appr. 30 people aboard the boat one night.

That is a great frame and shrink wrap job. Is the frame metal?
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catamount View Post
What kind of damage does the snow do?

Do you cover your boat in the summer to protect it from rain?

That said, I have my mast unstepped and stored indoors for the winter, and I try to store my boat indoors as well, if I can.
Rain doesn't freeze in the summer. Snow that melts and refreezes at night gets into all klinds of openings. The worst is probably clogging the scuppers and filling the cockpit which then seeps through the hatchboards and floods the boat and then freezes inside the cabin. Leaves in the fall have the same effect.

The weight of snow on the cabintop and decks will do some nasty things to hulls and untabbed bulkheads.

This is assuming the boat is out of the water. I stopped a power boat from sinking at the slip in front of me last week because the snow weight had submerged a scupper in the transom flooding the deck and running into the engine compartment.
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCatalina310 View Post
That is a great frame and shrink wrap job. Is the frame metal?
No. I do not like metal frames. They are just as bad as metal winch handles. When dropped they leaves nice divets in the gelcoat.

It is a very simple design that I designed and built in less than a day with one helper. It is a 2x4 ridge pole with 2x4 supports every 8 ft. with an extra support over the cockpit. The ribs ar 3/4" pvc electrical conduit. It is so cheap that you could throw it away and re-buy it every year. The door frame is 2x4 frame with a 2x3 framed door also covered in shrinkwrap.

Courtesy of Home Depot
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterSailer View Post
Both ways have advantage and disadvantage.
In my opinioin, the only disadvantge to covering a boat are the results of not doing it correctly. Either from being too cheap or too lazy.

If you could have your boat covered every year for no cost and not have to check on it, would you? The cover is properly ventilated and installed to not damage the finish.

If you were considering purchasing a boat and the 2 final candidates were identical including price,would you opt for the one that was properly covered or the one that had no cover for 20 years in a freezing environment?
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  #15  
Old 02-14-2011
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Our boat cover. OK - not yet perfect, but improving each winter. This is only winter #2.



More pictures at

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  #16  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treilley View Post
No. I do not like metal frames. They are just as bad as metal winch handles. When dropped they leaves nice divets in the gelcoat.

It is a very simple design that I designed and built in less than a day with one helper. It is a 2x4 ridge pole with 2x4 supports every 8 ft. with an extra support over the cockpit. The ribs ar 3/4" pvc electrical conduit. It is so cheap that you could throw it away and re-buy it every year. The door frame is 2x4 frame with a 2x3 framed door also covered in shrinkwrap.

Courtesy of Home Depot
Did you consider using the coil in-ground irrigation system line instead of the conduit? I was thinking about adding some support to my cover for next year and was thinking about that line because it is already rounded and would give the same shape as what you have. Also, did you put anything on the bottom, where the plastic touches the deck?

Thanks
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  #17  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treilley View Post
Rain doesn't freeze in the summer. Snow that melts and refreezes at night gets into all klinds of openings. The worst is probably clogging the scuppers and filling the cockpit which then seeps through the hatchboards and floods the boat and then freezes inside the cabin. Leaves in the fall have the same effect.
Yes, I am aware that freeze-thaw cycles are potentially problematic. My question was really about snow itself...

Quote:
Originally Posted by treilley View Post
The weight of snow on the cabintop and decks will do some nasty things to hulls and untabbed bulkheads.
OK, that is something I hadn't thought of -- the weight of the snow.

The other issue I can think of might be the "sandblasting" effect of snow crystals propelled by a very strong wind...

On the positive side, a layer of snow does provide protection from UV.
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  #18  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCatalina310 View Post
That is a great frame and shrink wrap job. Is the frame metal?
This looks great. You seem to be in a very protected location and you can get away with it, and even have a great party on the boat. More power to you!

However, this would not work where my boat winters. We get regularly winter storms (just today 45 knots, often quite a bit more) and your frame (with plastic ribs, forcryingoutloud!) would not last 10 minutes.

Again, looks like it is perfectly suitable for your purposes but is not for everybody. I built a much lower (= much less windage) frame from 3/4" conduit (google Kover Klamps), fastened to the toe rails and covered with canvas (top gun). It can be used both on land and in the water.
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Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKCatalina310 View Post
Did you consider using the coil in-ground irrigation system line instead of the conduit? I was thinking about adding some support to my cover for next year and was thinking about that line because it is already rounded and would give the same shape as what you have. Also, did you put anything on the bottom, where the plastic touches the deck?

Thanks
Some of my neighbors use the irrigation pipe and they like it. I like the conduit because it is not already coiled. When you bend it, you get a natural spring that tends to lift the ridge pole up making the cover virtually weightless. It does not sit on my deck. It actually sits on an aluminum rail that is outboard of the toe rail. The only place the frame touches the deck is at the vertical supports and they have 1/2" plywood pads under them. I can remove the pad and the vertical will hover allowing me to clean/work on the deck if I desire. The ridgepole is tied down to the handrails with strapping. All the the stanchions are also free from the cover so I could remove them to rebed if I want. My pulpit, bow sprit and pushpit are encapsulated under the shrink wrap so I cannot work on those until the cover is removed in the spring.

The angle in the diagram is exagerated a bit. The outboard molding is flatter than the diagram shows.

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  #20  
Old 02-14-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treilley View Post
I don't know why folks find this difficult. Why some of the yard monkeys can get away with this is purely the function of an uneducated or uncaring owner.

It is really not that hard. I did my own cover this year. It has an air gap at the toe rail and I have never seen a drop of condensation. Even when I had appr. 30 people aboard the boat one night.
Tim - I started a thread on your boat a few weeks ago. It has a link to your TV appearance:

"Bubble boat"?
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