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  #21  
Old 03-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltthesalt View Post
....I use a track and harness line when single handling or if there’s a risk of going over....That’s why I went to a track

Got pictures of that track idea? I am curious because in the NE, we have the same water temp issues.
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2011
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When we are at sea we seldom go onto the foredeck but spend a lot of time on the poop and on the rear cabin top.

We have decided to build a new radar arch and in the process we are having solid hand rails at a height of 800mm put all the way around the stern to come up to the entry in the cockpit on both sides with a proper closing gate at the stern boarding ladder.

We had a near-miss with a MOB once when in the middle of the ocean on a beautiful day, we decided to have a shower under the hose on the rear deck. My wife was sitting on the edge of the cabin top fully soaped up when the boat lurched and with her soapiness and the same on the deck, she went quickly sliding toward the transom and it was a major challenge to arrest her motion and keep her on board. Sounds like a funny story but it was scary at the time and selling the idea of solid hand rails has been real easy since then.
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2011
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The arch with handrail sounds like a very good idea, and netting might not be a bad idea.
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  #24  
Old 03-02-2011
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I learned the hard way on the J24 and just beefed things so the load is distributed over enough surface area of the deck so its a NON_ISSUE
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If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
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  #25  
Old 03-02-2011
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Some people won't maintian anything no matter how much emphasis you put on the importance.

The one below resulted in an MOB...

Electrical, plumbing/seacocks, bilge pumps, rigging, lifelines etc. etc. are all SERIOUS items that if neglected and not maintained can potentially kill you or a crew member..

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  #26  
Old 03-02-2011
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I'm still having a vision of my wife, fully soaped, sitting on my cabin top on a beautiful day.

I'm sorry, what were we discussing again?
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Old 03-02-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waltthesalt View Post
Here in the northwest with 40 deg water… fall overboard and you soon die.
Winter temps in the Puget Sound and Straits are about 45 degrees. Granted, some shallow bays can get colder, I had ice around my boat this winter in Gig Harbor, but outside of that, mid-40's is as cold as it gets. Of course, low 50's is a high as it gets in Summer as well.
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  #28  
Old 03-03-2011
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Toe Rail stanchion holders on C&C. Good idea. No messing with the deck and having stanchions come loose or spider cracking the gelcoat over time. Easy to install and fit right over the toe rail and are bolted on
Stanchions are held in the holder with two bolts so very secure. Just watch out for the pilings when doking as these are a little more outboard than the regular stanchion placement on most boats.



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Last edited by chef2sail; 03-03-2011 at 04:13 AM.
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  #29  
Old 03-11-2011
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Cheese slicer

We use 1/2 inch 3-strand Dacron for lifelines. The reason: We want something to be able to grab at the last second in an emergency, and salt-water on a small-diameter stainless steel cheese slicer doesn't get it. More windage, yes, but more strength, and something to grip in an emergency. It looks great, too and is easy to replace without swaging tools, etc.
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  #30  
Old 03-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iolanthesf View Post
We use 1/2 inch 3-strand Dacron for lifelines. The reason: We want something to be able to grab at the last second in an emergency, and salt-water on a small-diameter stainless steel cheese slicer doesn't get it. More windage, yes, but more strength, and something to grip in an emergency. It looks great, too and is easy to replace without swaging tools, etc.
You may want to analyze the force vectors of a 200-lb person pulling directly down on your lifeline. I would be concerned that with the way lifelines are routed around the stancions, the resulting tension from a 200-lb downward force might be much higher than you realize. Then compare that number to the line's maximum working load.

Also, do you do anything to protect against chafe at the stanchion tops?
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