Galley idea.. a bit of input is hoped for - Page 2 - SailNet Community

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  #11  
Old 03-08-2011
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you can store those 1# bottles in a length of 4" pvc with screw on caps, and hang it on the lifeline.

what about putting a small 10# fiberglass LP tank on the stern rail, and making a longer line.

you could also enclose those existing shelves and add sliding openings, and/or extend the shelf into over the counter area for more storage.

any task lighting? led strips under the shelf ?
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Old 03-08-2011
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Originally Posted by GraemeInCanada View Post
......I always disconnect the propane tank when not in use so I've never worried about it leaking off all over the place. The setup came with the boat 4 years ago when I got it and I haven't had an issue with it so didn't put anymore thought into it really......
I'm not the zealot on this topic, but the argument is that they are more prone to leak when you put them on and take them off. The disposable plunger inside is argued to get stuck, loose, etc, from repeated use. Leaving them connected, puts you at risk for a charged system leaking. If you just buy the inexpensive caps that I linked, the issue seems to disappear to me.
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Old 03-08-2011
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Just my $0.02: it would annoy me to have that bar (piece of counter top) across the front of the stove. It looks like it would make me reach down at a uncomfortable angle to turn the knobs on the stove, and it would also prevent me from looking at the position of the knobs while standing in front of it. Hard to tell if this is accurate from the render, though. Other than that detail, I like it.
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FWIW I have had a problem with a 1 Lb. disposable bottle, it was an offname brand from a discount store. It didn't reseal when removed from device, this was 1 out of probably a thousand, but very disconcerting to hold a spewing bottle of gas in your hand.
Also, about that cutout, there's is never enough counter space in a galley of any size boat, think of making a salad.
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Old 03-08-2011
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Ok, new render here. Slowly coming along with a bit more detail and textures in place. I actually can't decide if I want a wood finish for the counter or just use some arborite on plywood:



Still unsure what to do about the shelves. Gotta fit in a paper towel dispenser too. Any other things to think about?
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Old 03-08-2011
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Ice tip: I don't use bags of ice unless I'm away for a while. I freeze 4L or 10L water jugs (let a bit of water out first). That way when it melts you have the water contained in the jug, not the bottom of the cooler. Works perfect for (long) weekends.
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Old 03-08-2011
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Just a suggestion but what I have found to be the most efficient `cupboard' is actually a very deep sliding draw. With cupboards you can never get to the back to easily retrieve that pot. With a large draw it is all acesible. They make good quality slides nowadays that can take the weight.

The cooler could also be on a sliding platform to enable easy access and to relieve you of having to clear the top counter every time you needed to access it. Coolers should be the biggest you can get away with. The more ice you can put into it the longer they keep the food cool. I would not recommend draining the melt water until absolutely necessary. The water contains great cooling potential as it should be close to zero degrees celcius and you would be throwing away a lot of cooling time.

If you plan on more than a couple of days away you will probably have to resort to purchasing block ice then you will have the hassle of water in the cooler. Having a raised compartment to keep the food out of the water would be a good feature. Big problem with ice coolers is when you have some meat that leaches blood and gook into the water. You are faced with a major cleanup and sterilistion (bleach) job ahead of you so you must figure on how to safely dispose of the drain water so it doesn't get into the bilge.
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Old 03-09-2011
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Excellent suggestions. I can't do a sliding drawer there though because I want to get below that area too and the drawer would cover the access panel. Good idea though, I had thought on something like that in the past.

Agreed on the ice items.

Thanks for the input, this is where I've gotten to so far (not sure how much I like the look so far though)



Not entirely sure if I should go for sliding doors on the bottom part or proper doors. I know there was a good suggestion to put doors on if there is space available. I think there is.. for the upper area I'm still on the fence to close off that area behind the stove or leave it open like the upper shelf. I can't find very many images on the internet to give me an ideas of what looks good or practical.

Lots of thinking..
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.....I actually can't decide if I want a wood finish for the counter or just use some arborite on plywood.....
Either are probably going to take some more abuse than you will want to see after all this work. You don't need much counter top. I would check with a local counter top company or even your local Home Depot or Lowes, to see if they have corian scraps cut down from a recent install. They all do, its just a question of size and you may pay a very small fee. You could work with two separate pieces, one over the ice box and other over the rest. With the same pattern, corian can be seemed together to make a larger piece as well.
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Old 03-09-2011
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Graeme,

I think that final rendering looks great! I'd roll with it. Go online and get the dimensions of some alcohol stoves though, and see if you can make the stove cut-out accomodate them in case you want to change over in the future.
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