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  #31  
Old 03-10-2011
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I'd relocate the paper towel holder. we have ours mounted to the overhead, that way it clears space on the countertop, and also the paper towels dont get wet from sink splashback. That space would be perfect for hooks to hang mugs.

To increase counterspace, building a folding counter extension at the settee end of the galley. Flip up to use, when not in use it takes up virtually no space.
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  #32  
Old 03-10-2011
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Great comment nightowle and a very good point. I've changed up my design to go with that idea. The stove I'm going to get comes with a bamboo cutting board cover (I'll probably just cover it with the countertop material), so that's handy. Changed the colour of the top too.

Thanks Peter, it's getting there. Everybody keeps coming up with a new good idea that try to implement. I'm hoping to make the perfect galley here, takes time it seems..

Thanks jones, got the paper towels moved and I like the idea for the cups hanger. As I look at it, won't they clank around a lot? Am I missing something there? a piece of wood between each cup perhaps?

I thought about a folding countertop space but I'm not sure I need it anymore. The area above the water tank will also have a removable/hinge based piece, so that will help. I'll have to get that in the next render.

Here's how far I've gotten so far. I changed the slides behind the stove. Put in some spices, changed the sliding doors below the stove and sink and adjusted the countertop to be lighter. Moved the paper towels and added a container of soap

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  #33  
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Looking at that quickly I decided to get rid of the little handles on the bottom doors. I can picture catching my pants or something on those..



Just in case anybody is curious, I thought I'd post up a screenshot of the 3D workspace I'm in. It's kinda neat
http://www.periwinklecatboat.com/sai...creen_shot.png
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  #34  
Old 03-10-2011
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That is neat. What software are you using? Is it free and/or open source? How much time has it taken you to create these renders thus far (don't count the discussion time, just how long to create the model). Also, how accurate are the measurements in your images? It looks like it wouldn't be too much of a stretch to completely model the interior of your boat. I can think of a few things I would like to have a complete model of my boat for...
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  #35  
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I'm using a program called Swift 3D (www.erain.com). I've been using it since v3 so I'm used to it. Thinking of switching to Blender though (it's free and very powerful) as Swift can get finicky when you get to a high amount of objects in the scene. I've got a lot of textures in there too so it's quite slow to some things sometimes.

My measurements are not accurate at all.. More of an eyeball than anything. I've spent a lot of time on the boat and I have a lot of pictures. So I've just tried to match up with the pics more than anything. From there everything just kind of took shape. Looks about right to me, give or take a few inches here or there.

As for time to create.. hrmm.. I've probably put about 6 hours into it maybe? hard to say, been working on it over the last few days.. maybe 2 hours on and off each day. Lots of thinking too..

I have actually thought to model the whole interior. Just because I like 3D modeling more than anything else. We'll see. I'll keep posting renders as long as people are interested and hopefully give me some feedback and ideas. Everybody has a different look on things and what they like, I'm really keen to hear about those and very appreciative of any thoughts that can be posted.
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  #36  
Old 03-16-2011
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Here's my latest so far:



The main thing I've changed is the ceiling behind the water tank and v-berth.

After reading through the great posts on the subject and seeing what others did I thought about a suggestion to go with cedar. I really like the smell of cedar and of course it's a very rot resistant wood that should last quite a while.

So, my idea is to grab some lathe, sand it down smooth and round the edges, put it in with an 1/8th inch gap in between each piece and staple them to fiberglassed pieces on the hull.

My questions on this process:

1. Staples. Should I be concerned about them rusting and creating rust marks in the cedar? These staples are the same as used for making lathe fencing I would assume and I don't see those rusting a particular amount. Put in with an air compressor staple gun it should be a simple process rather than drilling and then putting stainless screws in. Should be less obvious too. Is it worth it?

2. Staining or protecting the cedar. I like the smell of cedar and I like the natural colour. Is it worth doing or can I just leave it?

3. Does it appeal to others from the visual perspective. My plan is to do the head back wall too which is right across from the water tank, everything aft of those items will be a white vinyl fabric over plywood I think. Keeps it bright, but I don't mind the forward part looking a bit more woody. Should help the boat smell nicer too. Thoughts?

Thanks again everybody for the input so far. I'm really close to getting started.

On a related note, I'm picking up my new stove tomorrow. Thanks to those who suggested an alcohol based stove would be better. Excellent idea.
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  #37  
Old 03-16-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraemeInCanada View Post
Here's my latest so far:

The main thing I've changed is the ceiling behind the water tank and v-berth.

After reading through the great posts on the subject and seeing what others did I thought about a suggestion to go with cedar. I really like the smell of cedar and of course it's a very rot resistant wood that should last quite a while.

So, my idea is to grab some lathe, sand it down smooth and round the edges, put it in with an 1/8th inch gap in between each piece and staple them to fiberglassed pieces on the hull.
Very classic look. Cedar should resist rot well, but it a relatively soft wood, so I would expect it to dent or scratch easily. May not be the best choice.

Quote:
1. Staples. Should I be concerned about them rusting and creating rust marks in the cedar? These staples are the same as used for making lathe fencing I would assume and I don't see those rusting a particular amount. Put in with an air compressor staple gun it should be a simple process rather than drilling and then putting stainless screws in. Should be less obvious too. Is it worth it?
I'm sure that regular staples would stain, even rust. I suppose you could use stainless steel staples. I would buy a countersink bit, drill holes and use small brass screws. Would look very nice. (You may have to glue down a substrate or tack strips to drill into)

Quote:
2. Staining or protecting the cedar. I like the smell of cedar and I like the natural colour. Is it worth doing or can I just leave it?
I would protect it from staining.

Quote:
3. Does it appeal to others from the visual perspective. My plan is to do the head back wall too which is right across from the water tank, everything aft of those items will be a white vinyl fabric over plywood I think. Keeps it bright, but I don't mind the forward part looking a bit more woody. Should help the boat smell nicer too. Thoughts?
I can't picture your boat well enough to comment on the mixture of finishes.
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  #38  
Old 03-16-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraemeInCanada View Post
I'm using a program called Swift 3D (www.erain.com). I've been using it since v3 so I'm used to it. Thinking of switching to Blender though (it's free and very powerful) as Swift can get finicky when you get to a high amount of objects in the scene. I've got a lot of textures in there too so it's quite slow to some things sometimes.
I'm a big fan of Blender having paid for, and contributed my own code to, new features. That said, I would suggest it will be a large change for you, in terms of user interface, moving from Swift to Blender (well, anything to Blender really).

On the other hand, you'll be able to use correct units (metric or imperial) and it has been used in some of the most gorgeous architectural renders I've seen. It also is able to handle a serious amount of detail when required (see their Sintel and Big Buck Bunny movies made using it).

Shutting up about 3D software now...
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  #39  
Old 03-21-2011
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After a general thought process and pondering the advice given, I've decided I'm not going with staples or finishing nails or whatever. Stainless or brass screws all the way. I'll explain exactly why below. So thank you for those thoughts.

BentSailor, yup, Blender rocks. Been working slowly through the tutorials for the latest version. Much nicer to look at then 2.49 etc. Works well, got a hull put together but it's tough to get just right. Will take a lot more time to get that all together.

Anyways, on to the big news. Demolition has begun! Made it down to the boat for a few hours and got to this point:


This picture shows how far down the counter and cooler will make it. There should be about 20 inches of space to stick your legs out to sit next to it. About 6 good feet to sleep there if need be too. I never sleep there.. but somebody might.



and one more from another angle:



As you can see, the PO decided to paint and didn't remove anything. It was a horrible paint job anyways, they even painted a brass lamp half way around, see this post: The Periwinkle and Stargazer Blog: Restoring the brass reading light on Stargazer

Anyways, when taking out all the god awful shelving in place I discovered many finishing nails and a few long staples holding parts of it together. Rusted of course.. so that's one of my main decisions to just not go with them and use stainless throughout. All the brackets holding the shelving together were rusted right out with some just crumbling away when I went to take the screws out..

I ran out of time, but the next thing I'll be doing is taking off the vinyl that's on there, that top plush burgundy thing that covers the bolts holding the boat together and putting some templates together to make a mockup of the galley and cooler together. That way I can make sure my sizes are correct and it will all look as expected.

Managed to get some nice mahogany for the shelving and trim and I'm really looking forward to getting a move on with this. Gotta still figure out a good fabric shop to get some vinyl to go back on the ceiling behind the galley and stuff too.. so much to do. I'll keep posting away if people are paying attention. Thanks everybody for your advice so far, it's made a big difference.
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  #40  
Old 03-27-2011
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I've made some great progress on the galley refit so far. I'll post here briefly but it seems like this thread isn't getting much attention anymore. No worries, it's been great to get so much feedback so far.

Anyways, with a bit of nice weather here recently I managed to get down to the boat for some destruction and measuring with template creation.

Here are a few pics:



Galley has been taken right out here. You can see the lovely paint job that was done by the PO. Not too tough of a job, lots to do though.



Here I've ripped the old crappy vinyl off the hull. It was awful, I would say it was about 30% black on the back of it and there was moisture on the hull between the two.. yuck. Respirator was in place during this once I saw just the little bit of black on a small peel off. The red foamy stuff that hides the hull to deck joint has been removed. It just absorbed moisture anyways and pretty much fell apart when taken out. I've kept the board in place, it's screwed on from the other side.. Doesn't seem to be rotten at all.



Started my template creation here. Need to get the hull shape on to a larger piece of plywood. This is the easiest way I know to do this. Essentially you take 1/8" ply, cut it into strips of 3" or so (gives room for large curves to shave out). Then shape it with a hand plane to get the right curve. Staple 4 of those together with the right angles and voila, you've got one side. Once done that I moved on to the counter top shape:



This was a little hard to do on my own so I made a couple of "legs" to rest the ends on while I scribed out my shape line:



I also needed to put in the spacers for the new ceiling I'm going to put in and another strip to represent the ceiling. A quick tip when doing the scribe is to just make your own tool for this. It's rare you'll have a compass on hand (maybe..) so I usually use a piece of wood that I specifically drill through to match the widest gap so that I have to cut off as little wood as possible:



Jam a pencil through and you have a quick tool to drag along the hull to make your line. End of that day's result:



Now those go home to be put on plywood to be cut out and built into the galley. I also did the aft piece as well and my next step is to create a mockup galley with 1x2 and 1/8" ply. Simple, light and easy to make to make sure I have the right fit for everything I want to get in.
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