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  #11  
Old 04-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeDiver View Post
Access to mine underneath is non existent. If mine does have bolts, I will not be able to get to the nuts underneath without cutting an access hole in the base that I can get my hand and a wrench into.

If it does have bolts....how in the world did they install it to begin with? No wonder the silly "rebuild kit" for the pump is more expensive than a brand new unit.
I'm sure there were threaded pieces installed underneath during construction. If a new head has a different bolt pattern, perhaps you can tap into the same material. Otherwise anchors are a solution as I suggested.
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  #12  
Old 04-10-2011
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Builders regularly attach items before the deck is on or to a liner before it is installed. In my boat the fuel tank vent was installed in the top of the transom before the deck was put on and the ribbed hose for the manual bilge pump was installed before the liner was glassed in, forever trapping it. I cut an access for the vent and installed a cover plate and the bilge pump hose was pulled out an inch at a time with lock pliers, unraveling because it was rotten. Luckily my head base has an access hole in its front face but if there wasn't one there would be now. Heads have to be either bolted down one way or another. If there are inserts and the pattern is different for a new head an access hole is a good idea.
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  #13  
Old 04-10-2011
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The original Wilcox is in there now....I'd have to be very lucky indeed to have my replacement Jabsco, same one the OP got, fit in the same holes. I have no issues cutting an oval access hole to get under there so I can bolt the new one down properly. I'm 250# so my fat butt needs a good solid installation. I can make a nice teak cover for the hole.
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2011
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No access to install bolts. The original was screwed down and that held for 40 years, but I'll keep an eye on it. There is thick wood behind most of the walls - probably 3/4 inch. When I drilled the pilot holes the bit went in at least an inch, so that should make for decent holding.

Another thing that I learned from this exercise is that you need to use silicone when installing the hoses. Also important is to use two clamps on ALL the fittings, not just the ones that connect to the through hulls. The only place that I did not use two clamps is the intake to the toilet. It flushes with fresh water, so no need to worry about sea water sneaking in, and if there were any seepage there it would be clean water. The waste sides all have to have two clamps just in case.

At least now I have a really clean-smelling head and no worries for a few years!

The last problem I'm having is planning where to vent the new holding tank. The boat had no holding tank in it when we bought it. It was OLD school. Anyone have any ideas on a good vent to use? I'll probably install it on the side, but well above the water line. Don't need to fill the tank with sea water.
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  #15  
Old 04-10-2011
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The best way to vent it is with 2 vents to get crossflow for good circulation. The vents you buy are too small - use 3/4" through hulls.

It sounds like you didn't need bolts with that thick of a backing.

I never use sealant on hose connections. If the hose is the correct size there should not be a problem. I have never had one and I always use 2 clamps.
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  #16  
Old 04-11-2011
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No access to install bolts. The original was screwed down and that held for 40 years, but I'll keep an eye on it.
I just re-built a platform to mount a new head. Plan on screwing it down, just like the 35 year old original. The original head was still firmly attached to a plywood platform that had degraded to the point of failure. Point being that if you keep it dry, it will stay strong for a long time.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitiempo View Post
The best way to vent it is with 2 vents to get crossflow for good circulation. The vents you buy are too small - use 3/4" through hulls.
I agree, and from what I have read it is good to have cross ventilation. The problem I will have with that is the tank has only one vent hole (small 6 gallon tank).

Perhaps I don't need a second vent with a tank that small because it will be pumped out more often and not have much of a chance for mother nature to grow things in the tank.
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2011
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If at all possible, I would highly recommend a larger holding tank. One of the biggest reasons that waste lines stink is that way too little fresh water is flushed behind the waste to clear them out and push the nastiness all the way to the tank. That can require a full gallon of water for each flush, although, that highly depends on how far away the tank is.
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2011
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I know. I wish I could have fit a larger tank somewhere, but where I had to mount this tank was limited.

We will be pumping it out often while underway and flush with fresh water. The macerator should help and I will be flushing fresh water through it when I pump it out.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2011
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Just clarifying my fresh water flush comment. I meant clean water, but it could be salt water to flush the waste out of the lines. It's only critical that no waste remain in the lines and that take many times more water than most use to flush. Salt water is fine for flushing, unless you are leaving it unused for several days, in which case you should flush the lines with fresh water. The algea in the saltwater will eventually die in your line and that stinks too, but that isn't a problem if in constant motion.
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