In the ad it said the Yanmar had not been cranked since the rebuild... Upon my inspection I found the Yanmar 10 HP to be in really good working condition. It turned right over.
If it runs RELIABLY, you're way ahead.
Boat needs: All new lines.
Buy them... it could easily run you >$1K.
I notice some stress cracks around a lot of the Stanchions.
Check for flex at the base - it probably has gaskets under the stanchions. Rebed with Butyl tape (search for Maine Sail's excellent post here
When I looked in the inside up I saw that the Stanchions were bolted through the hull and attached to what looked to be a fiber glass backing plate.
Nuthin' wrong with good glass backing plates. You don't have to worry about dissimilar metals with glass.
I plan on taking out the Stanchions, raising them up at least 6", and backing them with some stainless steel or something else robust to spread the stress around.
I believe that you mean to replace the stanchions with 6" taller ones, and not use 6" blocks under your existing ones (I hope
). Again, there is nothing wrong with adequate glass backing plates. Epoxy ½" G10 fiberglass in place if you want bullet proof backing plates. You can find that here; McMaster-Carr
Boat needs radar (Really?!?), depth sounder, GPS, and radio....
Next week I will haul out the boat, scrape it, paint it, and take out and reinstall all the old sea cocks and hoses attached to them.
Toss any old gate valves - and use Main Sail's tips on installing through hulls, available here
. You'll develop a new appreciation for the price of Bronze
Need a few pieces of standing rigging. Havent been up the mast to check out the spars but looks to be okay.
It may be wiser to have the rig dropped
to do the initial inspection.
***Note: The bilge in this boat is only 2 inches which is wierd to me. Also, the keel-bolts that stick up out of the bilge are pretty corroded but once I dug down to the bolts washers I saw shiny stainless metal so I think keel-bolt failure is pretty unlikely.
I'll share what MY bilge looked like when my boat first went to survey;
This boat was built in 1986
Not too bad... or so I thought...
Then I had the boat hauled, and noticed the keel rocked about ¼" (at the bottom) from port to stbd.
After the keel was dropped here is what we found;
The repair was about 1/3 the asking price of the boat...
Refitting starts next week. Look to put from 2-4K into refits and upgrades. The one major thing was that the boat has no roller furling... Not a huge drawback but definitely something I plan on installing.
The roller furler alone may eat your entire 2-4K.
I don't want to dissuade you, but realize what BOAT stands for. The older they get the more that seems to hold true.
Good luck, and keep us posted!