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  #21  
Old 06-21-2011
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Lots of good advice here.

I had a Hood design with a centerboard and a centerboard on the rudder. Owned this one for 10 years. It did require maintenance, the cable was replaced once, and a fitting on top of the trunk required some re-welding, about to leak significantly. Never needed to do a pin, but that looked pretty hard to reach in this particular boat. Painting the board required a little extra time in the lift.

Never had any trouble with it. Took it offshore a number of times. Was very good on Cape Cod, where depths can be shallow. Could freak out an anchorage by tucking in close, places the boat size would seem surprising to others. Hitting the bottom with the board head on was not a problem, you could watch the cable go slack to judge depth. I've been told its a problem, but have not tried dragging the board sideways over the bottom, or backing into something. I suspect this would not go so well. On a downwind leg, if not fully retracted, it would rattle a bit. You could hear it bump against the sides of the trunk. This would not happen when tacking or reaching as the board was loaded up against the trunk.

If you need shallow draft because of where you anchor, keep your boat, marina, etc., by all means consider well built center boarders. If that is not important to you, it is one more thing to maintain.
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  #22  
Old 06-21-2011
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My boat is a centerboard. Does not add to stability as others have said due to the fact it wieghs only about 50 pounds. What it IS great for in my area is that it allows me to be low draft when I am in the rivers and channels. I can go places most boats my size would be unable to go.
I just hauled the boat out and the wire was in fine shape. The line looked a bit stiff- I replaced it in about five minutes. Just scrape it off and slap some paint on it whenever you do the bottom job.

One point I did not see covered so far though-- You should not really drop the board all the way down as this increases the play on it which can eventually lead to preemptive wear and tear on the wire or holding pin.
I like to drop mine to about a 45 degree angle, sort of how scissors are when the slide through paper. This way the play is much less, I still point up and to leeward but I do not have the constant up and down motion the centerboard would experience if it were dropped all the way down.
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  #23  
Old 06-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harborless View Post
One point I did not see covered so far though-- You should not really drop the board all the way down as this increases the play on it which can eventually lead to preemptive wear and tear on the wire or holding pin.
I like to drop mine to about a 45 degree angle, sort of how scissors are when the slide through paper. This way the play is much less, I still point up and to leeward but I do not have the constant up and down motion the centerboard would experience if it were dropped all the way down.
I think this depends on the design and point of sail. That said, on our CB I do take care when dropping it so the pennant doesn't get slack, when its fully lowered I keep some tension on the line. I also mark the line when in the sling to show 45 degrees, 90 or fully lowered, and fully raised.

If the centerboard is moving up and down when underway, it would indicate there is not enough weight in the tip of the board = poor design IMO

Last edited by T37Chef; 06-21-2011 at 11:56 AM.
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  #24  
Old 06-21-2011
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The boat is a AMF PAceship cy26 --- during haulout the weight was 8,000 pounds-- not bad for a 26' boat.
It really olnly seems to be an issue when running. As was said in another post when on a tack the force keeps it pretty much on the wells side unless the surf it to rough. I like your idea of marking the line for the different angles. I will do that this week.
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Old 06-21-2011
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Maybe is more side to side than up and down, mine will do that if I forget to raise it on a run or at anchor, barely but noticeable nonetheless
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Old 06-21-2011
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Its funny. I never REALLY even started to notice it until I was hauled out talking to this crusty old salt who told me about the pro's and con's of the centerboards. During this discourse he told me about the wear and tear induced by the centerboard being dropped too much cfreating slack and allowing for back and forth play.
Of course after this talk I start to notice it! Kind of wish he never said anything..
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  #27  
Old 06-21-2011
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Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
For one, we are not talking about multi-million dollar around the world racing boats. For another, most 1 class dinghies are center board or even dagger board models.

When was the last time you were in waves big enough to roll your boat over and how many times have you been rolled? For the kind of sailing that many of us do we are (hopefully) able to avoid really nasty weather, waves and winds. If you are getting rolled frequently you must be doing something wrong.
We are not talking day sailors. I had a 16 foot day sailor with a center board and it was good for what it was made for- not blue water sailing.

When I travel inter-island, waves between channels can easily roll my boat. they can be 25 feet or more breaking top to bottom with 45 knot winds. I have not been rolled yet, but like to be prepared, like having an air bag in your car. Others have mentioned volvo 60's have center boards, I was not aware. I know these boats have canting keels, I need to check out the centerboards. For me, I like to keep it simple.
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  #28  
Old 06-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harborless View Post
Its funny. I never REALLY even started to notice it until I was hauled out talking to this crusty old salt who told me about the pro's and con's of the centerboards. During this discourse he told me about the wear and tear induced by the centerboard being dropped too much cfreating slack and allowing for back and forth play.
Of course after this talk I start to notice it! Kind of wish he never said anything..
Not really the same thing but my 16 foot day sailor did the same thing. I never like the feeling of hearing your boat wearing away.
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  #29  
Old 06-21-2011
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Originally Posted by junkrig View Post
That Antarctic cruiser mentioned above is named Pelagic. Custom built for Magellan Strait & south. IIRC the keel is bronze & on a worm gear.
Lots about it in Rounding the Horn by Dallas Murphy.
Here is the link: looks like an awsome yacht for its application, Notice the skeg retracts also:

Pelagic Expeditions Fleet Overview
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  #30  
Old 06-21-2011
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Originally Posted by rockDAWG View Post
hahah.... the reason that I bought up this question is because I have been eying on a number of potential Sabres on YW from CT to NC. I did not say it out loud to keep it as objective as possible. I am glad to hear from the Sabre Owner.

1. Does the cable and board need attention every year during the haul out?
2. Will grounding (board up or down) be easily damage the board and cable assembly?
3. Does the cable replacement be performed by the owner with skills?

TIA.
Looks good to go according to Blue Water:
Search Results

And check this pic out- reason to have a centerboard (go to slide #3)!
New Page 1

Last edited by casey1999; 06-21-2011 at 04:41 PM.
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