35 morgan keel bolts - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 26 Old 08-02-2011
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Dean done disappeared! lol

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #12 of 26 Old 08-02-2011
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Denise , I will take a stab at your general questions..

For avg DIY I wouldnt think keel bolts would be on the list but to a gear head really wouldnt be a big problem , lead is not too hard to work with , it's soft and actullay eazy to work with and low melting temp '

Iron ( as far as R&R,ing bolts / studs) isnt really to hard if you know what one's doing it takes heat on the stud & using a proper stud removel collet tool ( would take skill inside a boat tho like using a welder for the heat insted of a torch) ..

as far as the stub go's IDK really ..

disclamiers , I would imagin any shop would cover thier buitts , but not to the point of not getting the work...
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post #13 of 26 Old 08-02-2011
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Keel bolts in Iron must be deep though. And to heat the iron.. it would be a huge heat sink! I had help when restoring one of my cars and used heat on some exhaust pipe bolts.. they did loosen quite easily.

not a boat...but she won 3 years in a row!

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #14 of 26 Old 08-02-2011
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Sweet ride , you are really haveing too much fun sliding on water & pavement lol....

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post #15 of 26 Old 08-02-2011
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LOL HD.. Thank you, well, she's parked now.. oh 3 years. need to sell.. but just can't seem to .

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #16 of 26 Old 08-03-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
Oh, and has anyone actually EVER been able to remove a bolt out of an iron keel? If so, is there ANY way to insure they can be removed in the future?

Jus saying
Yes.... Me. I pulled and replaced all ten bolts in my iron keel. They were mild steel and I replaced them with all new stainless hardware - studs, washers, nuts and channel floors instead of small backing plates.

The old studs came out surprisingly easily for being in there for 35 years and corroded badly in the exposed areas.

I chased and bottom tapped the threaded holes then coated the new studs with anti seize before installing them.

It isn't hard. If they are too stubborn to remove with double nuts, get a stud puller from a rental or engine shop.

I, myself, personally intend to continue being outspoken and opinionated, intolerant of all fanatics, fools and ignoramuses, deeply suspicious of all those who have "found the answer" and on my bad days, downright rude.
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post #17 of 26 Old 08-03-2011
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That's just so hard to believe! How deep did they go?

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #18 of 26 Old 08-03-2011
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That's just so hard to believe! How deep did they go?
I can't remember for sure, 5 or 6 diameters IIRC. This can fool a lot of people - they are so used to lead with very long bolts buried deep, but into iron you don't have to go so deep. If you think about it, there is only the thickness of the nut holding the top so why would you need to go deeper at the other end? In reality, cast steel or iron is softer than the material used for the nuts so you DO have to go deeper but not like a foot or more. At first glance it does seem very counter-intuitive - a big weight like that should have HUGE bolts going all the way through or nearly so but it ain't so.

Some keels, like on a Thunderbird are held on by big flathead machine screws through a flange so they only have the countersunk tapered head and the nut absorbing the tensile loading. My keel is a bit similar in that it also has a foot wide flange with two rows of studs 10" apart transversely down each side. The difference is that mine are studs tapped into the flange, not machine screws going through the flange.

When I pulled them I was surprised at both their diameter and the depth - they both seemed very skimpy based on gut feel only so I did a lot of research and found it was very standard engineering (some of the figures are in my earlier post). The fact that the severely wasp waisted and corroded originals held it on without leaks should have been the tipoff I guess.

By the way, this was done with the keel off - they were so waisted that I doubt I could have done it in place - they would have snapped at the corroded level. Being able to grab them below that made all the difference I think.
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Last edited by SloopJonB; 08-03-2011 at 03:47 PM.
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post #19 of 26 Old 08-03-2011
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Plus.. in Iron it's easy to drill and tap to the next size up! or even metric (kinda in between standard sizes) Thanks so much!

Denise, Bristol PA, Oday 30. On Tidal Delaware River, Anchor Yacht Club.
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post #20 of 26 Old 08-04-2011 Thread Starter
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has anyone ever seen a lead keel that had bolts instead of lL shaped rod set into the keel form then poured it should be possible to use pockets set into the lead and then washers and bolts when i pull her up in sept im going to look for the pockets first if i dont find them i guess i ill have to sister some in beside th L bolts cant wait to get started
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