35 morgan keel bolts - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 26 Old 08-04-2011
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I'm pretty sure I've seen writeups of removing and replacing conventional keel bolts in a lead keel. the process consisted of finding out what length the original bolts were, measuring down to the approximate bottom on the keel, and then drilling in from the side to expose the "bent" part of the bolt. At that point the bolts are cut and pulled up from the cabin side. New bolts can be installed and then new lead poured or epoxy used to reseal the keel.

I'm sure I'e seen it someplace, if you need a professional opinion ask the folks at MARS METAL, they've made the keels on a lot of boats and they do a lot of custom keel work.
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post #22 of 26 Old 08-04-2011
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Originally Posted by dean burney View Post
has anyone ever seen a lead keel that had bolts instead of lL shaped rod set into the keel form then poured it should be possible to use pockets set into the lead and then washers and bolts when i pull her up in sept im going to look for the pockets first if i dont find them i guess i ill have to sister some in beside th L bolts cant wait to get started
Post #7 in this thread has a llink to Mars Metal in which there is a writeup about this. I've never heard of it being done as an original process, only as a repair. If you tried to pour a keel this way you'd have to have some sort of blanks in place when you poured the lead, then remove them after the keel cooled and was pulled from the mould - more trouble than it would be worth I think. Lead keels rarely need new bolts.

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post #23 of 26 Old 08-04-2011
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if i dont find them i guess i ill have to sister some in beside th L bolts cant wait to get started
There is a fastener called a HANGER BOLT that has SAE threads on 1/2 the length and lag screw threads on the other 1/2. If available in the diameter you need, you could drill the lead for lag threads and just use nuts & washers inside the boat. This could be adequate for sistering fasteners on relatively small boats

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post #24 of 26 Old 08-05-2011
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I don't see why a threaded cross dowel (not wood of course) wouldn't work for new or old keels The cross dowel could be very large even. and the threads for the keel bolt would go through from the keel stub. Or? does lead start to "give" after a given amount of time since lead is so soft?

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post #25 of 26 Old 08-05-2011
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Denise sounds like it would do the job given the correct hardware & cross dowel material and relead all needed openings after the repair was done ...

Now if the keel bolts were wonky loose and let the keel rock & roll for a while then the stub would need to be trued to keel step.....

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post #26 of 26 Old 08-05-2011
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My boat has an encapsulated keel, mystifies me how it stays there. lol.. I can't think of anyway to make things "stronger" since it's a fin keel too. But as it's far from a new boat. I would think something is going on with the hull and weight of the keel. We faired the joint or what ever it is on hull bottom when we did the barrier coat. Going on 3 yrs now The fairing is still "fair" and seems undisturbed,

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