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  #501  
Old 09-27-2011
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Adam

I don't think you will find any bronze on a Catalina 27. None I have seen anyway. And chromed bronze is rare now compared to years past.
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  #502  
Old 09-27-2011
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Granite chain plates are the biznes right now! Just sayin...
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  #503  
Old 09-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamLein View Post
Is bronze on boats guaranteed to always look bronze? Is there any way to tell whether my shiny metal bits are stainless, vs. some sort of plated bronze?
On my 33 year old boat a lot of the standing fittings and winches are chrome plated bronze. They still look strong. I can tell because the chrome plating has either been worn away or there may be small dings in the chrome where you can see the underlaying bronze.

BTW, the bronze is not shiny (after being on a boat), it is dull color bronze and salt water can give it a very dark green tinge. You could polish it, but that just removes good metal and takes away the protective petina.

Here is another interesting video:

Jack Chrysler Presents: Titanium - The Ultimate Metal for the Marine Environment

Last edited by casey1999; 09-27-2011 at 03:19 PM.
  #504  
Old 09-27-2011
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Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
Read item #8 of your link. Looks like Titanium should be ok with as a chain plate even if they are connected. The rigging should not be active, it should be passive.

Also found this site (interesting article):

Titanium Chainplates Info - Allied Titanium

they also sell titanium chain plates at about $200 each all fabricated.
Thanks for those links, amazing how quickly things have changed with the pricing on titanium, wasn't very long ago it was often jokingly referred to an Unobtainium, and for good reason... I've been using titanium anchor shackles for awhile, and they were still considerably more expensive than an equivalent stainless counterpart ...

If I were replacing or starting from scratch today, I'd probably have a good look at composite chainplates from a material such as G-10, a number of high-end builders appear to be going that route, as well... Probably pretty pricey, however, would be my guess...
  #505  
Old 09-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEisberg View Post
Thanks for those links, amazing how quickly things have changed with the pricing on titanium, wasn't very long ago it was often jokingly referred to an Unobtainium, and for good reason... I've been using titanium anchor shackles for awhile, and they were still considerably more expensive than an equivalent stainless counterpart ...

If I were replacing or starting from scratch today, I'd probably have a good look at composite chainplates from a material such as G-10, a number of high-end builders appear to be going that route, as well... Probably pretty pricey, however, would be my guess...
Just to confirm, this link shows titanium chain plate pre fabed for many types of boats.
Titanium Chainplates, Items 1 to 50 of 90 - Allied Titanium

I have seen some new boats building the chain plate (of epoxy) right into the hull/deck) looks good although it seems their could be a very large stress concentration in the hole of the fiberglass chain plate- not sure if I would trust that over the long hual. Maybe for a short life race boat it is ok.
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  #506  
Old 09-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casey1999 View Post
To be honest, don't understand why so many fittings on a boat are made of stianless. For what a gather, it mainly came about because stainless "looks" good. You hear so many stories of stainless just failing, even if a recent inspection indicated all was good. Bronze is the true marine metal.
Just out of curiosity, how much weaker is a typical bronze chainplate than its SS equivalent? Is bronze strong enough that other things (swages? mast-side fittings?) will fail first?

For that matter, I see that there are about a zillion copper alloys in the bronze family. What's typically used for marine applications?
  #507  
Old 09-27-2011
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Originally Posted by zedboy View Post
Just out of curiosity, how much weaker is a typical bronze chainplate than its SS equivalent? Is bronze strong enough that other things (swages? mast-side fittings?) will fail first?

For that matter, I see that there are about a zillion copper alloys in the bronze family. What's typically used for marine applications?
My understanding is silicone bronze is best in marine applications.

Here are specs:
Silicone Bronze: Ultimate strengthe 85k psi, Yield 55k psi
316 SS Ultimate strength 90K psi Yield 60k psi
304 SS Ultimate strength 73K psi Yield 31k psi

So Silicone Bronze should be fine- for practical purposes as strong as "new" 316 SS.

Good link:
Stainless Product Guide - AlcobraMetals.com

http://www.alcobrametals.com/guide.php?metal=2#silicon

Last edited by casey1999; 09-27-2011 at 04:43 PM.
  #508  
Old 09-27-2011
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I have an OLD steel boat, and where the rigging attaches there is significant rust.

I'm not sure if these are 'chainplates' per se because they are welded to the boat, and I've not investigates exactly how they are constructed all that much.

But, it seems to me that one will never be abole to paint or protect that area, since the rig will move slightly and the shackles will rub, and also hold a tiny amount of water, which obviously will equal rust.

Which brings me to my question, is there a material that I could use to isolate the stainless rig from the steel chainplate? something like a g10 sandwich or a composite ring that the rig would attach to?

How can I better protect this area, and prevent THIS:
  #509  
Old 09-27-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xymotic View Post
I have an OLD steel boat, and where the rigging attaches there is significant rust.

I'm not sure if these are 'chainplates' per se because they are welded to the boat, and I've not investigates exactly how they are constructed all that much.

But, it seems to me that one will never be abole to paint or protect that area, since the rig will move slightly and the shackles will rub, and also hold a tiny amount of water, which obviously will equal rust.

Which brings me to my question, is there a material that I could use to isolate the stainless rig from the steel chainplate? something like a g10 sandwich or a composite ring that the rig would attach to?

How can I better protect this area, and prevent THIS:
A freind has an 85 foot steel ketch that he has sailed several times aroung the world and sailed continusely for the last 20 years. The boat also has steel chain plates welded to the hull like yours. The plates were corroded where the stainless pin goes through the hole in the steel chain plate for the shroud connection. I was surprised it has held. Maybe a marine grease would work at that location where the pin would rub.
  #510  
Old 09-27-2011
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I have to go with it depends keeping in mind i fix broken SS stuff for a living





For example on the Cal 29 there are SIX chain-plates taking care of the load on at the widest part of the boat(the uppers shrouds are only 3/16 on and 8000# hull) and a 3/16 upper would POP before it got close to stressing the plate

All six were removed checked and buffed and given the light use they had for most of the boats life i not to worried

I have also never seen SS crevice corrode from the inside OUT it always starts on the surface and works IN
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Last edited by tommays; 09-27-2011 at 06:23 PM.
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