A couple of cabin sole questions

Sublime · #1 (**permalink**) 08-25-2011

I'm going to attempt to save this cabin sole before replacing it. It's a purely decorative teak and holly veneer. The boat was on the hard under a tree before I got it and had a leak in the companion way. Some dirty water leaked in put some dark stains on the sole. The water then froze and lifted part of the sole in a few corners, the worst being about a foot long by 2-3 inches wide.

The plan is to use a steam iron and some heavy weight to get it to flatten back out and glue it. I'm not sure what I should use to glue it back down? Looks like a type of caulking was used. Maybe some sort of 3M goop? I'm concerned about not getting it back far enough and end up with a bubble. I thought epoxy might be better, but I'm a little worried about one adhesive allowing the wood to move more than another resulting in a split. Maybe use a wire coat hanger to shove some as far back as possible.
Suggestions?

For the stains, I tried some wood cleaner for teak with a scrub brush but the stains are stubborn and didn't even lighten. I'm not sure what else I can use on it? There's no finish on the wood, it's only been oiled. And ideas on that one?

Thanks!

SPC · #2 (**permalink**) 08-25-2011

There are wood "bleaches" that can remove stains. I think that they are typically sodium hydroxide, or lye, and are dangerous to use: burns, poisonous gases, etc.

emoney · #3 (**permalink**) 08-25-2011

For the gluing, personally I'd just use Titebond II. It's supposedly waterproof, and as far as gluing wood, it's never failed me. As for the stain, can't help with ideas to remove it. Any thought to sanding the whole area down and applying a finish, or will that just make the stain worse?

Sublime · #4 (**permalink**) 08-27-2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by emoney

For the gluing, personally I'd just use Titebond II. It's supposedly waterproof, and as far as gluing wood, it's never failed me. As for the stain, can't help with ideas to remove it. Any thought to sanding the whole area down and applying a finish, or will that just make the stain worse?

It's too thin to sand. I'd be down in plywood before I knew it.

Well, here we go. Only the best and most expensive things for my boat. Old college text books as weight, haha.

ccam · #5 (**permalink**) 08-27-2011

Sublime,
I've had that happen before and I used the syringe in those fiber glass repair kits from WM. Find your smallest drill bit and punch several holes shoot in (your choice) or epoxy. Apply pressure and wipe up residual. Mine is still holding.

sailingfool · #6 (**permalink**) 08-28-2011

Definitely Gorilla glue to fix the delimination. Dampen the wood and get some into every layers, clamp tight, and it'll end up as strong as new.

celenoglu · #7 (**permalink**) 08-28-2011

Acids work a lot better than bases on wood. You can try oxalic acid for removing the stains.

HDChopper · #8 (**permalink**) 08-28-2011

IMHO you need more Physics books on there lol ...

Good luck , remember you may want to take that back up in the future so the "perfect bond" may not serve you well .... just food for thought

Lots of bond products out there I have used many .... T5200 one of my faves , Gorilla glue works , liquid nails ect....

SPC · #9 (**permalink**) 08-28-2011

Acids work better than bases on wood? Why? I'm pretty sure that bases have been used as wood bleaches forever and that you will purchase lye if you buy a wood bleach from any woodworking supply store.

That said, I would be interested in learning more as I'm looking at a similar stain.

JimsCAL · #10 (**permalink**) 08-28-2011

Oxalic acid DOES work for bleaching wood. See the link below.

Oxalic Acid for Wood Bleaching - Rockler Woodworking Tools