Pillow Block Design for Tartan 30, 1976 - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-13-2011 Thread Starter
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Pillow Block Design for Tartan 30, 1976

I need to re build a pillow block after re powering my T30 from the Atomic 4 to a Nanni Diesel. The prop is very different and sets up some serious vibration without the support a pillow block gives to that long shaft. We removed the old pillow block as it was in poor condition and did not think another pillow block would be needed, so I stupidly trashed the old one and now need design info. HELP
Win Allred
Anna Rose T30
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-13-2011
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So your talking about the strut that has the cutlass bearing in it ?


If so that's gonna be a problem that has to fixed

Buck Algonquin...Quality Marine Hardware Since 1955

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post #3 of 7 Old 10-30-2011
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I have a pillow block if you want it

I pulled my A4 last winter and replaced it with an electric motor. Everything runs really smooth and I did not need the pillow block. I almost tossed it a couple of times. I guess I was saving it for you Win. Let me know of you are interested.
Bill
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-30-2011
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Originally Posted by doghousephoto View Post
I pulled my A4 last winter and replaced it with an electric motor. Everything runs really smooth and I did not need the pillow block. I almost tossed it a couple of times. I guess I was saving it for you Win. Let me know of you are interested.
Bill
There are a few of us interested on electric conversions.
Would you mind starting a new thread and giving some details
Boat
motor
controller
charger
batteries
costs
distances you can run
location
anything else you can think of we might want to know.
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-30-2011
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Not sure yet how to start a new thread. I have a photo of my engine conversion. This is the basic set up to get me out of the yard and back to the marina. My final version has cooling fans to keep the controller cool and there are now 8 batteries, three in the old battery housing and another back against the bulkhead (tight squeeze). It basically will get me in and out of the marina and the slip and has done wonders for maneuverability. I have not tested it for distance but does 3kts at 20 amps and 4.5 knots at 50 amps.
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-22-2012
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Shaft alignment: I've often wondered why the strut-cutlass bearing
isn't set up with a gimbaled cutlass bearing support. That would allow
easier alignment on the transmission end. Also, sail drives have a fairly
large diameter in the water to accommodate a gear case. The gimbal
would not have to be any larger. Cost maybe?
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-08-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 63bccartoon View Post
Shaft alignment: I've often wondered why the strut-cutlass bearing
isn't set up with a gimbaled cutlass bearing support. That would allow
easier alignment on the transmission end. Also, sail drives have a fairly
large diameter in the water to accommodate a gear case. The gimbal
would not have to be any larger. Cost maybe?
The aft shaft bearing needs to be rigid as it is trying to prevent a prop and shaft moving around. As you have thrust loads on a shaft from the prop there is a tendency for the shaft to flex and then whip or spiral as torque is applied. So that bearing is essential in keeping the shaft running true.

Rubber bearings ( I believe) don't help the situation but it will be a long time before people start to see the benefit of a hard bearing in the strut. Military boats use hard bearings to keep noise and wear down as well as a large number of commercial vessels.
But I'm biased I work with bearings and solve bearing problems for a living!
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