Loose leeward shrouds? - Page 3 - SailNet Community
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post #21 of 30 Old 10-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichH View Post
Not sure with the structural design of the Col32; but, if the boat has a deck stepped mast....

Ehm, I thought that I said quite clearly that the mast is KEEL STEPPED. It rests on an aluminum support which, in turn, sits on the keel.
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post #22 of 30 Old 10-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnottyGurl View Post
To see if the coach roof has flatened, get a steel support pole and set next to mast in walk way place wood on the top of the post that makes contact with roof with plate,
Snug pole to roof and
SLOWLY add some pressure each 1/8 turn check door, if it stops sticking you have found your problem. PLEASE watch and count the turns, never more then 3 full turns as this will raise the roof half an inch so watch and check lots as you turn on the pressure.
That's an interesting idea.

Would it apply if my mast is keel-stepped (as it is), or would one expect a lowered coach roof only with a deck-stepped mast?
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post #23 of 30 Old 10-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MastUndSchotbruch View Post
That's an interesting idea.

Would it apply if my mast is keel-stepped (as it is), or would one expect a lowered coach roof only with a deck-stepped mast?
This will work with either keel stepped and deck stepped.
If you are on the deck at mast storage also could be leakage from mast boot leaking as well. This will help in working the roof to see if it has lowered. Place the post as close to mast as possible and slowly lift roof, door should straighten out if roof is the problem.
Also as Rich mentioned also check to see if the door lock slide still lines up.
Are hinges solid and tight at backing of door, loose screws can cause this as well.
Did you modify the main bulk head in any way, speakers installed into walls could cause some structure drop as well, but highly unlikely a level against it would reveal a slight warp in the wall.
Also wood rot along the bottom edge could allow for compression on the wall and a 1/16 would be enough movement to cause this issue as well.
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post #24 of 30 Old 10-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnottyGurl View Post
This will work with either keel stepped and deck stepped.
If you are on the deck at mast storage also could be leakage from mast boot leaking as well. This will help in working the roof to see if it has lowered. Place the post as close to mast as possible and slowly lift roof, door should straighten out if roof is the problem.
Also as Rich mentioned also check to see if the door lock slide still lines up.
Are hinges solid and tight at backing of door, loose screws can cause this as well.
Did you modify the main bulk head in any way, speakers installed into walls could cause some structure drop as well, but highly unlikely a level against it would reveal a slight warp in the wall.
Also wood rot along the bottom edge could allow for compression on the wall and a 1/16 would be enough movement to cause this issue as well.
No speakers or something added.

However, your last comment may be right to the mark: there is, in fact, some rot at the bottom edge of the main bulkhead (one of the reasons why I rebedded the chainplates).

Hmmmmm....
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post #25 of 30 Old 10-12-2011
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I see a winter project in the making for you, if your on the hard for the winter then your good to go and by spring will have it repaired and ready for launch day over a few weekends.
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post #26 of 30 Old 10-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnottyGurl View Post
I see a winter project in the making for you, if your on the hard for the winter then your good to go and by spring will have it repaired and ready for launch day over a few weekends.
Yikes, too many winter projects already...

So, the plan would be to jack up the deck (jack at the mast, as you explained), dig out the rot in the bulkhead, and replace it with something solid,?
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post #27 of 30 Old 10-12-2011
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The Catalina 27 like most other production boats tend to get deck deformation at the step. This can make tuning difficult.
One thing I like to do if I'm tuning a boat. First thing is walk a few finger piers down and sight the position of your mast fore and aft. This is the time to put it in the right position. I'm amazed how many boats are tipped forward drastically generally due to mis tune or rigging lengths wrong. Every boat wants to be in a different spot, few want the forward lean.
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post #28 of 30 Old 10-13-2011
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On a deck stepped mast (with compression post) on a 34 foot boat. I am amazed at how much force is on that post, even at dock. If I tension all my stays (total of 2) and shrouds (total of 6) to say 15% breaking load (8mm 316 stainless) then my approximate 4inch x 4 inch compression post will see somthing like 12,000 lbs downward force. Sounds like a lot.
Is my thinking right on this?
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post #29 of 30 Old 10-13-2011
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It's a rule of thumb that the compressive load on the rig can be equal to the displ of the boat. It varies with the width of the shroud base.
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post #30 of 30 Old 10-13-2011
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As mentioned above, Selden has a good .Pdf file on setting up standing rigging, using amt. of stretch in the s.s. Shrouds should be just slack when on the lee side, certainly not flapping around. Changing tacks and taking a few turns each time on the slack side until they are equally slack on both tacks is actually a pretty good way to tune the rig without fancy tools. Sighting up the mast while using an accurate gauge is the best way but even then you can discover that some under-way tuning is needed when there is air in the sails.
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