
11-14-2011
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barquito
But, if I understand correctly, it is just the portion that is breaking that is dangerous. So, if you are on the beach, the whole height of the wave is breaking. If you are on the ocean, with a large swell, but only the top few feet breaks, then you are not in much danger.
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At sea, you are not concerned about a wave breaking on the shore line (a wave normally starts to break when the depth is about 1/3 its height as I remember) unless you are getting to close to the shore or have to cross a sand bar or shallow water to get into/out of your harbor (and that is another issue). When at sea, a wave is considered breaking when you see white water on its crests and it actually starts to curl. This should not be confused with a white cap which is not dangerous. A breaking sea can be caused by many things: a current moving in the opposite direction as the wave train, very steep waves due to very high winds, two wave trains meeting each other and combining (rouge waves)- these breaking waves when the wave height is 1/3 your boat length is what can knock you down.
Last edited by casey1999; 11-14-2011 at 03:50 PM.
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