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  #11  
Old 12-01-2011
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Yes you're right I didn't look it over carefully.

But honestly, if the boat was built correctly what do you think the condition of the hull would be in? Is it true that the steel inside the cement will corrode and be ruined after 40 years even if everything is done right?
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steel View Post
Yes you're right I didn't look it over carefully.

But honestly, if the boat was built correctly what do you think the condition of the hull would be in? Is it true that the steel inside the cement will corrode and be ruined after 40 years even if everything is done right?
When I was in Turkey in the mid 80's I saw a cement boat on which you could see the red marks where the corrosion had permeated the hull. That did nothing for my confidence in ferro-concrete boats.
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackdale View Post
When I was in Turkey in the mid 80's I saw a cement boat on which you could see the red marks where the corrosion had permeated the hull. That did nothing for my confidence in ferro-concrete boats.
Yeah, concrete is extremely porous. All you need is one area where things weren't sealed right from the outside or the inside and things get nasty ...
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2011
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You can't tell and that is the problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by steel View Post
Yes you're right I didn't look it over carefully.

But honestly, if the boat was built correctly what do you think the condition of the hull would be in? Is it true that the steel inside the cement will corrode and be ruined after 40 years even if everything is done right?
Let's assume it was built properly (a big assumption but let's go with it), I am not aware of a non-destructive way to know what is happening inside the cement. I think there is a good reason why people are not building them these days. If you were going to use them for coastal cruising only in nice weather it might (note, 'might') make sense, but I could never be comfortable if the waves came up and I did not know that the reinforcing was still strong. Sometimes you get conditions where the boat will fall off a wave and drop 5 or 6' and do it repeately. I just have this image of pieces of concrete breaking off until the water starts to come in in great quantities.

There is a good reason why ferro-cement boats are verging on the valueless today. There were a couple in our yacht club that were beautifully built by very skilled craftsmen. When one gentleman got to around 80 he wanted to sell and ended up almost giving it away. There are many very good deals on FG boats in this market starting with prices of $0 and going up from there. Look around and be patient and you will find one.
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  #15  
Old 12-04-2011
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Forget the ferrocement too much risk.

I hear everyone on practice.. I will put a couple months of prep into safety and just getting used to overnight trips.

I hear @killarney_sailor on recommending the Bristol 27 and the Vega 27.

Looking at many boats for sale in the marina and going to SD this week. Eager to purchase one asap, want something blue water ready and most people selling aren't really sure.. I fear these boats have never traveled great distances at sea. I don't want to drop money with little confidence in what I'm getting.

I want to have the option of sailing all the way to Peru, Chile, if she makes it safely to Columbia ..being at sea that long and generalized discomfort is of little importance for me. I've lived worse at other points of my life lol. I will definitely resupply food and water along the way.

Any other recommendations on cheaper 70s era 27' that when buying I can have confidence its truly a blue water worthy vessel??

Is there a defining factor when examining these boats that will tip me off.. this boat can really do it?

Last edited by California Republic; 12-04-2011 at 01:29 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-04-2011
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Ericson 27! Yes i have one . . . seriously, ask over at ericsonyachts.org an E27 held a record between San Fran and Japan I believe, great build quality and plenty on the west coast . . . nice interiors too . .
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  #17  
Old 12-09-2011
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As I remember a guy on a 26' sail boat going to Catalina, had a problem, didn't know how to start the engine, I think it was 65 days before the coast guard in coasta rico picked him up.
As for sleeping at sea, as long as you have faith in those you sail with, You get used to the movement. I genneraly have more trouble when it stops.
As for boats there are a lot of boats, But you have to make them sea worthy. Thats why new boats are commissioned.
I would seggest you start by signing on as a deck hand on a race from del rey to Mexico, Come back with the boat. The southern run is easy, the 2 knot current will get you 48 miles a day. coming back thats a different story.
I don't cross the Mexican border anymore, but once you have your passport, call the Mexican consulat and ask them what papers, you need for the boat.
Boyce
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  #18  
Old 12-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California Republic View Post
Any other recommendations on cheaper 70s era 27' that when buying I can have confidence its truly a blue water worthy vessel??

Is there a defining factor when examining these boats that will tip me off.. this boat can really do it?
This site is a good place to start.

Mahina Expedition - Selecting A Boat for Offshore Cruising

At the bottom of the page are a list of boats that the site's author considers offshore boats. It is HIS opinion (before the people who don't see their boats listed start complaining) and simply a place to start.

If you're going to buy a 40-YO boat (presumably because they'll initially cost less?), keep in mind that a neglected offshore-capable boat is no longer capable of going offshore safely. Making it safe and seaworthy may end up costing as much as buying a newer boat.
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