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post #11 of 15 Old 12-22-2011 Thread Starter
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Noice that if an island is surrounded by real deep water, the wave will not refract so much to the opposite side, if shallow water wave will refract around.

There are 3 basic types of waves, those generated far off shore from large storms that bring in a ground swell and when that hits the beach, very large waves.
Ah ... thanks. That explains the waves I experienced in Tahiti, when we were surrounded by a barrier reef. The waves were gently and likely caused by the low pressure above land that brought in the breezes. In Mexico, when exposed to the Pacific, they were incredibly powerful.

Haven't seen the Sailing Weather - Marine Weather Forecasts for Sailors and Adventurers - PassageWeather site before. Thanks for that reference!
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post #12 of 15 Old 12-22-2011
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Ah ... thanks. That explains the waves I experienced in Tahiti, when we were surrounded by a barrier reef. The waves were gently and likely caused by the low pressure above land that brought in the breezes. In Mexico, when exposed to the Pacific, they were incredibly powerful.

Haven't seen the Sailing Weather - Marine Weather Forecasts for Sailors and Adventurers - PassageWeather site before. Thanks for that reference!
Depends where you are in Tahiti, never been there but they have some of the most powerful waves in the world at Tahiti's Teahupo'o. These waves are generated in the Southern Ocean I believe.

Also, the sea breezes near land are actually thermal driven (not low pressure areas over an island). The land heats the air which rises and needs to be replaced by the cooler air over the ocean- then the air blows from ocean to the land- usually in late morning or afternoon until sunset.)
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-22-2011
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Depends where you are in Tahiti, never been there but they have some of the most powerful waves in the world at Tahiti's Teahupo'o. These waves are generated in the Southern Ocean I believe.
Nice. Waves like in that photo are easily in the hundreds if not thousands of megawatts per meter (of beach they crash on).

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Also, the sea breezes near land are actually thermal driven (not low pressure areas over an island).
Technically sea breezes are still due to a low; the low is just thermally generated rather than due to a front perturbation.

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Depends where you are in Tahiti, never been there but they have some of the most powerful waves in the world at Tahiti's Teahupo'o. These waves are generated in the Southern Ocean I believe
Huahine and Tahiti. In both cases there were reefs that kept it calm at the beach. But twice I approached a pass on Huahine, once in a kayak and once in a 40' boat. The waves coming in through the pass were like buildings rolling in. Two surboarders looked like action figures they were so dwarfed by the waves. They also sounded like jets taking off when they broke.
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Huahine and Tahiti. In both cases there were reefs that kept it calm at the beach. But twice I approached a pass on Huahine, once in a kayak and once in a 40' boat. The waves coming in through the pass were like buildings rolling in. Two surboarders looked like action figures they were so dwarfed by the waves. They also sounded like jets taking off when they broke.
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/th...mea-bay_51419/
Above is a good site that explains wave mechanics. Talks about North Shore of Oahu but pertains to any deep water surf break. In the summer, I anchor at Waimea bay, but winter- no way, check out some of the pics of Waimea when surf is up.

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