What Head Sail to Buy (Genoa, drifter, or Asym) - Page 2 - SailNet Community
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-13-2012 Thread Starter
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The reason I'd want the furler is mainly to pull down some sail quickly. The sail is easy to put up. The boat is pretty small with only about 15ft of waterline it bobs a lot in choppy weather. Single handed trying to get up to drop the jib can be a less than fun task. Hasn't happened, but there's a good chance either the sail or myself or both will end up in the water doing it.

I'm thinking something like a furler for a Hobie Getaway or capri might be available relatively cheap, or I could build my own. I'm not sure what to do with it for trailer though. I do trailer sail it, so it has to be able to go down the freeway at 75mph too. Possibly just put the furled sail in a long piece of PVC and hang it on the mast?

Is there a reason why furlers are usually around a cylindrical tube? It would seem to make sense in my mind to build them around either an elliptical or wing shaped tube. Of course when furled or out the wing shape will have to be able to be pointed into the wind, but it should be much more efficient I would think. It was a noticeable difference going from the round original mast to the hobie mast profile.
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-13-2012
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Many furlers do use a more aerodynamic foil. The Cruising oriented ones are usually round (cheaper to produce) Racing foils usually have two grooves to allow hoisting one sail before you drop the other. Single groove foils and hanked sails required a 'bare headed' change (some period of time with no headsail during the change)

You could save the cost of any furler by rigging a jib downhaul... a small line attached to the head and running down inside the hanks and back to the cockpit... to douse release the halyard and pull on the downhaul to quickly bring the sail down to the deck.
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-13-2012 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Many furlers do use a more aerodynamic foil. The Cruising oriented ones are usually round (cheaper to produce) Racing foils usually have two grooves to allow hoisting one sail before you drop the other. Single groove foils and hanked sails required a 'bare headed' change (some period of time with no headsail during the change)
For my use, I'm sure I can just have a single groove or hank on. I don't think it's likely I'd change headsail other than put up an asym or something if the wind is really light.

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You could save the cost of any furler by rigging a jib downhaul... a small line attached to the head and running down inside the hanks and back to the cockpit... to douse release the halyard and pull on the downhaul to quickly bring the sail down to the deck.
I like the idea, the problem is that the sail will end up in the water if I do that. There isn't a lot of freeboard and the J measurement is large enough that the deeper parts of the sail will reach the water.
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post #14 of 18 Old 01-13-2012
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One other consideration. If you have only a single fixed fairlead for the jib, a roller furler is only useful for completely furling the sail. As you furl a genoa / jib to reduce sail area you need to move the fairlead car forward to maintain a proper sheeting angle. A track might be installed, just ensure that it has sufficient backing plates. You should also verify that your turning blocks in mounted in the correct position to provide the correct sheet angle to your winches.

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post #15 of 18 Old 01-13-2012 Thread Starter
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A track will likely be required to get a proper sheeting angle. Would it work to have, say 4 eye-straps along the rail rather than a full track? I realize I would be left with only 4 positions, but I think that would be fine. I'd probably be fine with only 2. Full sail, half sail, or furled.

Also... there are no winches. Sheeting 50sq/ft of sail is pretty easy by hand. . Right now it's run through an eye strap back to a cleat on the deck.

My other idea for simple operation of a 4 position type system would be simply using a carabiner to some type of deck hardware in multiple positions.
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post #16 of 18 Old 01-13-2012
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If you don't want to go with track you could use twingers to effect a similar setup.



Blue line is the sheet, red line is the twinger (on your boat a simple ring on the end would probably do).. the dotted black line is the 'effective sheeting angle'... the sheet goes through your fixed padeye on deck, the twinger changes the angle the same as moving a car on a track.... way less money, just an extra cleat and padeye, really, some of which may be available anyway....
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Quote:
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If you don't want to go with track you could use twingers to effect a similar setup.
I have used barber-haulers to increase the inboard sheeting angle. I had not considered using that setup to modify a "normal" sheeting angle.

Nice.

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post #18 of 18 Old 01-13-2012 Thread Starter
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That looks like a great idea.
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