what to do with the exterior side of bronze portholes

Cruxandreams · #1 (**permalink**) 01-20-2012

Hey all, I just purchased the set of 6 bronze Alden portholes from Bacons in Annapolis. They didn't come with brass rings for the exterior side, and was wondering what it would cost to get some made, or how should I finish the outside to both look good, and create a tight seal to prevent water ingression. Before, the boat had non opening windows with teak trim inside and out. Just kinda looking for some ideas, Thanks.

Cruxandreams · #2 (**permalink**) 01-20-2012

Also wondering if anyone knows a do it yourself method of makind and installing screens inside the ports, Thanks.

chrisncate · #3 (**permalink**) 01-20-2012

Hmm, I have been admiring those since they showed up at Bacon... never looked close enough to realize they were missing the outer trim rings though.

I think your options are to either make teak outer rings, or get some 1/4 inch silicon bronze sheet, and cut them out for yourself. Kind of an expensive/tough job either way. Personally, after working with bronze a bit this year I'd go the route of cutting them out myself in bronze with a jigsaw and a ton of metal blades (and cutting oil, you will NEED that for sure). If you make them from teak, make sure you don't just cut rings from solid pieces of wood - they will split if done that way.

Screens... another tough thing, tougher than it looks. You could braze some bronze screening to a bronze wire, pre shaped to the inner shape of the window, fitted with some rubber "nubs" that hold it in via friction..

I know a metal guy who works in bronze (not cheap). If you're interested, pm me and I'll give you how contact info. Best of luck!

S/V Utopia · #4 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012

NICE!! We actually just bought new bronze portlights from Minney's in CA. My fiancee has a bronze furnace and will be casting our exterior trim rings, PM me and I will give you his contact info! There is also a company in Maine who makes screens, fairly inexpensive from what I'm told. When the "hubs" wakes up, I can have him post more info.

WanderingStar · #5 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012

The old (1968) screen frames on my bronze ports are cracked at the frames, retainers broken. I've had success cutting hardware store plastic screen to shape and gluing it inside the frame with clear sealant. Let us know how it works out, whatever you decide.

RichH · #6 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012

The external frames for these are essentially mirror images of the interior frames but with the 'high hat or throat' section slightly larger so that the inner frame + outer frame fits together ... like an "interlocking socket". You might want to check with some of the remaining US bronze foundries (Newfound Metals, etc.) who do such work and see if they may have the 'patterns' to mold-up new exterior frames.

I keep my portlights mirror polished (prepped as: flatsanded w/1500 grit then bright/mirror polished with jewelers rouge and high speed fabric wheel ... then heavy sprayed with a urethane-acrylic copolymer coating (I use Honey Teak 'clear') ... important to also coat the 'behind' surfaces to prevent corrosion that always starts 'behind' the frames and 'creeps' to the visible surfaces especially through the 'bolt holes'. This coating will last for 5-6 years if 'heavy applied'; coating 'behind' will lengthen the time for recoating. The next time I rebed these frames (this time with butyl tape), I will consider to send them out and have them heavy coated with clear powder-coat.
Example of mirror polished and coated bronze frames: http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...Aquila/HT1.jpg

S/V Utopia · #7 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012

Check out Screens of Schooner Bay Home

SloopJonB · #8 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012

Purchase some appropriate bronze sheet then find an outfit with a waterjet or laser cutter and have them cut rings that will slip over the throat. Pair them with the ports and drill the mounting holes. Alternatively you can cut them with a plasma cutter but that will require more finish work to clean up the edges.

Spend the extra time to polish them as per RichH - it's well worth it and only a little more work.

Cruxandreams · #9 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012

what about forging my own? I mean it seams pretty simple. My dad has a blacksmiths forge as well as iron ladles. Build a template out of wood, then use some kind of high temperature ceramic to make the mold, heat some scrap bronze to liquid state, pour it in the mold, and then use a grinder to clean them up... is there something I'm missing?? Also the idea Chrisncate had about finding bronze sheet, I think 1/8 would be fine, as that is the thickness of the inside face, finding it is the problem, and i'm sure it wont be cheep but I only need a 1.5' by 3' piece. I just spent $800 on the ports, and I'm sure If I had some one make them for me I would be getting close to double the price.. I cant imagine some one making them for less than 100 dollars a ring.. really appreciate all your input everyone. Man these suckers are gonna look sweet when I get em in, not to mention all the nice cool draft Ill be getting with opening ports!

Cruxandreams · #10 (**permalink**) 01-21-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichH

The external frames for these are essentially mirror images of the interior frames but with the 'high hat or throat' section slightly larger so that the inner frame + outer frame fits together ... like an "interlocking socket". You might want to check with some of the remaining US bronze foundries (Newfound Metals, etc.) who do such work and see if they may have the 'patterns' to mold-up new exterior frames.

I keep my portlights mirror polished (prepped as: flatsanded w/1500 grit then bright/mirror polished with jewelers rouge and high speed fabric wheel ... then heavy sprayed with a urethane-acrylic copolymer coating (I use Honey Teak 'clear') ... important to also coat the 'behind' surfaces to prevent corrosion that always starts 'behind' the frames and 'creeps' to the visible surfaces especially through the 'bolt holes'. This coating will last for 5-6 years if 'heavy applied'; coating 'behind' will lengthen the time for recoating. The next time I rebed these frames (this time with butyl tape), I will consider to send them out and have them heavy coated with clear powder-coat.
Example of mirror polished and coated bronze frames: http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...Aquila/HT1.jpg

So I was told they were re-bronzed not too long ago, need I worry about sanding this off while trying to clean them up?? I mean I don't really understand it, they are solid bronze, so I would think sanding them would bring out the natural shine, but this re-bronzed business has me wondering...? by the way, really appreciate your help!