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Rustyf 01-30-2012 08:05 PM

Rod Rigging
 
Rod rigging seems to be a selling point on many boats. Can someone tell me if that is a worthwhile component on a 34-36 foot sloop for coastal cruising.

Thanks

killarney_sailor 01-30-2012 08:22 PM

For coastal cruising it does not add anything, nor does it subtract. If a boat has it fine, if not fine. Just judge on quality of rigging, not type.

jackdale 01-30-2012 09:33 PM

One huge downside to rod rigging for cruising is that you cannot carry spare rod. Wire will work as a temporary fix.

It is more common on the racing boats.

sawingknots 01-30-2012 09:51 PM

i've only saw a couple of them,if theres an advantage i'm missing it,i would think the solid rods/wired would be more subject to metal fatigue

Faster 01-30-2012 10:02 PM

Properly maintained, rod is not more subject to fatigue.. it stretches much less than wire, has slightly less windage and cannot develop 'jaggers'.

However unlike wire, which starts to break down in visible ways long before it loses critical strength, rod can appear healthy until it decides to suddenly part. For distant cruising and easier repair, wire would win out.

We've had both, did in fact have a couple of occasions where the rod failed suddenly, a quick tack saved the rig. One failure was traced to improper maintenance the other to bad fabrication (the rod had been welded into the turnbuckle end).

We currently have wire rigging, with a dyneema ('rope') backstay. We did change out the standing rigging just for the peace of mind.

travlineasy 01-30-2012 10:02 PM

I just finished reading about the disadvantages of rod rigging in a book by Lin and Larry Pardey last night. One of the problems is rod rigging provides no warning prior to failure--it just breaks. In contrast, wire rigging usually shows signs of failure with rust, frayed wires protruding near connections, excessive stretching. Additionally, wire rigging is far more forgiving in an overload situation because of the stretch. Lin and Larry talked about several reported failures on rod-rigged, high-dollar racing boats, which in a couple instances ended up with demasting.

Emergency replacement, as stated above, is not a problem with wire. And while rods could be stowed laterally along life-lines, rigging connections while at sea could pose a problem--even with the proper tools. Installation could be a bit hairy as well.

Good luck on whatever you decide upon,

Gary :cool:

chef2sail 01-30-2012 10:14 PM

Our 35 C&C is rod rigged. As stated before it is important to do a thorough survey of it every year. I see absolutely no disasvatage to the rod rigging as long as you inspect. Our boat is a racer/ cruiser and it aids in its stiffness. No burrs and no rust spots.

dave

jackdale 01-30-2012 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chef2sail (Post 824240)
Our 35 C&C is rod rigged. As stated before it is important to do a thorough survey of it every year. I see absolutely no disasvatage to the rod rigging as long as you inspect. Our boat is a racer/ cruiser and it aids in its stiffness. No burrs and no rust spots.

dave

And if you tap the rod forestay with a hammer you get the sound of the weapons from Stars Wars. Yep - that is how they did it. :cool:

I used to teach on a 35 for a few years and loved it. :) Except for the leaky windows. :(

chef2sail 01-30-2012 11:06 PM

Quote:

And if you tap the rod forestay with a hammer you get the sound of the weapons from Stars Wars. Yep - that is how they did it.

I used to teach on a 35 for a few years and loved it. Except for the leaky windows.
Like
Haha...tapping on the rods does really produce some "varient" sounds you are right. Have done it.

You are also rught about the leaky fixed windows. We redid ours and no problems now. I think its because they were bedded with 5200 originally and the boat is so stip when it flexes it broke the seals. Used Butul tape and 4200 when we redid and dry as a bone now.

Dave

jackdale 01-30-2012 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chef2sail (Post 824278)

You are also rught about the leaky fixed windows. We redid ours and no problems now. I think its because they were bedded with 5200 originally and the boat is so stip when it flexes it broke the seals. Used Butul tape and 4200 when we redid and dry as a bone now.

Dave

The other factor in the leaks is trying to put a flat piece of Lexan on a compound curve. Good adhesive will work. I saw a few where there bolted the window into place along with the 5200.


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