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post #1 of 16 Old 01-30-2012 Thread Starter
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Rod Rigging

Rod rigging seems to be a selling point on many boats. Can someone tell me if that is a worthwhile component on a 34-36 foot sloop for coastal cruising.

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post #2 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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For coastal cruising it does not add anything, nor does it subtract. If a boat has it fine, if not fine. Just judge on quality of rigging, not type.

Back home on Lake Ontario after something over 36,000 nm circumnavigator. Not surprisingly there is a lot of stuff I want to get done on Ainia both cosmetically and functionally. Getting an early start so it will be ready to go for next summer (Lake Superior?).
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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One huge downside to rod rigging for cruising is that you cannot carry spare rod. Wire will work as a temporary fix.

It is more common on the racing boats.

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post #4 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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i've only saw a couple of them,if theres an advantage i'm missing it,i would think the solid rods/wired would be more subject to metal fatigue

Last edited by sawingknots; 01-30-2012 at 09:54 PM. Reason: add
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post #5 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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Properly maintained, rod is not more subject to fatigue.. it stretches much less than wire, has slightly less windage and cannot develop 'jaggers'.

However unlike wire, which starts to break down in visible ways long before it loses critical strength, rod can appear healthy until it decides to suddenly part. For distant cruising and easier repair, wire would win out.

We've had both, did in fact have a couple of occasions where the rod failed suddenly, a quick tack saved the rig. One failure was traced to improper maintenance the other to bad fabrication (the rod had been welded into the turnbuckle end).

We currently have wire rigging, with a dyneema ('rope') backstay. We did change out the standing rigging just for the peace of mind.

Ron

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post #6 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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I just finished reading about the disadvantages of rod rigging in a book by Lin and Larry Pardey last night. One of the problems is rod rigging provides no warning prior to failure--it just breaks. In contrast, wire rigging usually shows signs of failure with rust, frayed wires protruding near connections, excessive stretching. Additionally, wire rigging is far more forgiving in an overload situation because of the stretch. Lin and Larry talked about several reported failures on rod-rigged, high-dollar racing boats, which in a couple instances ended up with demasting.

Emergency replacement, as stated above, is not a problem with wire. And while rods could be stowed laterally along life-lines, rigging connections while at sea could pose a problem--even with the proper tools. Installation could be a bit hairy as well.

Good luck on whatever you decide upon,

Gary

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post #7 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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Our 35 C&C is rod rigged. As stated before it is important to do a thorough survey of it every year. I see absolutely no disasvatage to the rod rigging as long as you inspect. Our boat is a racer/ cruiser and it aids in its stiffness. No burrs and no rust spots.

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post #8 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef2sail View Post
Our 35 C&C is rod rigged. As stated before it is important to do a thorough survey of it every year. I see absolutely no disasvatage to the rod rigging as long as you inspect. Our boat is a racer/ cruiser and it aids in its stiffness. No burrs and no rust spots.

dave
And if you tap the rod forestay with a hammer you get the sound of the weapons from Stars Wars. Yep - that is how they did it.

I used to teach on a 35 for a few years and loved it. Except for the leaky windows.

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post #9 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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Quote:
And if you tap the rod forestay with a hammer you get the sound of the weapons from Stars Wars. Yep - that is how they did it.

I used to teach on a 35 for a few years and loved it. Except for the leaky windows.
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Haha...tapping on the rods does really produce some "varient" sounds you are right. Have done it.

You are also rught about the leaky fixed windows. We redid ours and no problems now. I think its because they were bedded with 5200 originally and the boat is so stip when it flexes it broke the seals. Used Butul tape and 4200 when we redid and dry as a bone now.

Dave


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post #10 of 16 Old 01-30-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef2sail View Post

You are also rught about the leaky fixed windows. We redid ours and no problems now. I think its because they were bedded with 5200 originally and the boat is so stip when it flexes it broke the seals. Used Butul tape and 4200 when we redid and dry as a bone now.

Dave
The other factor in the leaks is trying to put a flat piece of Lexan on a compound curve. Good adhesive will work. I saw a few where there bolted the window into place along with the 5200.

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