The last few posts give good advice.
Suggestion is made to set up some 'trials' (with or without a 'trial horse' boat for comparison) with data collection
of speed, AWA, VMG, % of overlap, etc. etc. on various combinations of sails and trim, etc. etc. to attain the optimum sailing angles. Such plotting and analysis of raw data will allow you 'empirically' arrive towards 'optimum'.
This would include using (temporary) barberhaulers to manage the jib, etc. sheeting angles.
For staysail usage in/for the trial Id recommend going to www.arvelgentry.com
--->magazine articles ---> "double headed rig" to get you to a starting point
for decent staysail luff shape
(heavy luff/halyard tension) to affect good aero flow to main and topsail, etc. .... this is probably the only valid/correct work ever done on the interaction of staysail w/ main w/topsail. This implies that 99% of all staysails have wrongly designed (broadseamed for a 'sloop') shape, and what you can do about it .... hard luff tension!!!!
All of the above will obviously depend the targets of 'helm balance' (by correctly positioning the point of max. draft via halyard/boltrope tension) AND proper headstay/forestay tension to match the 'luff hollow' that has already been cut into all your present headsails. Any rig with 'multiple' headstays, solent stays, forestays (staysail stays) will ALWAYS have/present a wire tension 'nightmare' in getting all those tensions/sags to match
the luff shape to get to 'optimum' output .... sometimes you have to get the luff shape (luff hollow) re-cut to attain this 'match' and so you dont have to apply adverse stay tension (>~25-30% wire tension for wire FATIGUE considerations). To 'point' with any efficiency youre going to have to get all these various wire tensions correct and balanced with respect to sail shape
, etc. to arrive at a suggested target of quite 'neutral' helm, .... and then 'backoff' to get ~3° rudder angle so to get 'any' possible lift to windward out of a loooong keel --- yeah, its possible to get some 'lift' from a looooong keel when closehauled, ... can be done and your VMG will thank you.
FWIW ... use a wire tension gage to monitor the max developed wire tensions when fully sail loaded ... and use 30% MAX. tension when at max. heel (~45° over) as your rig's structural 'limit'. This will keep the rig UNDER/BELOW the "fatigue endurance limit" (~30,000 psi for most 300 series stainless steels) and prevent sudden/catastrophic fatigue failure. Riggers dont make emergency service calls out in the deep ocean.
Here's some articles Ive written that will probably apply to your boat:
•"Matching forestay/headstay tension to 'luff hollow'" - http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...LuffHollow.gif
•"HOW to properly RAISE a boltroped woven dacron sail" ... discussion is proper boltrope tension: How to properly RAISE a woven dacron mainsail - SailboatOwners.com
My suggested 'preliminaries' would be to get the optimum shape/trim of the sails and wire tensions (based on sail shape
, etc.) to get to a 'neutral helm' (rarely involving 'mast rake'), followed by trials with barberhaulers, etc. on the foresail(s) to get to a maximized 'close hauled' VMG, etc. .... the recorded data
from many 'trials' will show you 'which way to go'.
hope this helps. ;-)