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Old 02-16-2012
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Boat mold!!!

We've been Blessed and received a 32' Iona. Moonglider was neglected and sitting in the water for a long time untouched. She had at least 6 inches of water in her when we boarded her the first time. We've since have keep her bulge dry. By the way she was leaking from the topside. I've power washed and treated the mold that was in the boat. I through out every thing (almost)in her also! What do you do for boat mold management? How do I prevent this from comin back?
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Old 02-16-2012
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Keep the boat dry. Unless you solve ALL of the problems that caused the mold in the first place, it will persist, and it may persist anyway, simply because a boat is a warm moist environment. Seal your leaks, wash EVERYDAMNTHING with a bleach solution and strong cleaners, and clean frequently in the future. Pull the covers off the cushions. If the foam cushions are moldy, use them as patterns for new ones, and wash the covers gently.
Paint the inside of the 4 Cs (cubbies, cabinets, cupboards and catch-alls) and the bilge with killz and then a few coats of bilgekote or similar.

IMO mold abatement is the toughest part of reviving a derelict. Rigging, mechanicals and electricals can be replaced and/or rebuilt with predictable results, but chasing fungus can drive you to distraction.
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Last edited by bljones; 02-16-2012 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 02-16-2012
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First, you have to kill the mold. A bleach solution is best and then you clean the resulting residue with an appropriate cleaner. You need to get into every nook and cranny.

Once your mold is properly removed, you need to eliminate moisture as much as possible, by fixing your leaks. Then I'd recommend you make sure your boat is continually and properly vented. We have 4 day/night solar vents that have worked well on our 35 footer for over 15 years now. We've gotten over 10 years on these units, before replacing them. Sometimes a NiCd battery replacement can bring them back to life for a few extra years.
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Old 02-16-2012
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Mold needs water. Keeping the interior as dry as possible goes a long way toward preventing mold and is a good first step. However, any porous surface will also be problematic. This is because moisture gets into the pores and makes things more hospitable for the mold. So, step two should be to seal/reseal all the surfaces possible. Re-varnish all your interior woodwork, wax and gelcoat surfaces, et cetera. If you have bare wood in lockers, or the engine compartment, try sealing it as much as possible. Keeping mold and mildew to a minimum means less spores will be around to start a future outbreak, so thoroughly wash or replace all fabrics and cushions. Finally, wipe all the hard surfaces down with a lemon oil furniture polish every few weeks to make the surface as unwelcoming to mold as possible.
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Old 02-16-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bljones View Post
...
IMO mold abatement is the toughest part of reviving a derelict. Rigging, mechanicals and electricals can be replaced and/or rebuilt with predictable results, but chasing fungus can drive you to distraction.
This is often sooooooo true.
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Is this paint bought at the marine store?
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I am new to this boating thing. Can you explain to me these solar vents, where did you place them and how do they work?
Thanks
Jill
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Old 02-16-2012
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Here's a repost of something that RichH posted a few years back:

There’s a very straightforward ‘process’ solution to mildew control.
1. First THOROUGHLY Clean out every dark corner and ‘undersurface’ possible in the boat.
2. Dissolve the mold/mildew with a caustic based detergent … but not on bare or oiled or varnished teak. If you use Tilex or Clorox, you will leave ‘dead cells’ and they will only be used as a nutrient for ‘other species’ of mold/mildew – OK to use clorox on painted varnished surfaces but you have to followup clean to remove the dead cells.
3. So, after a thorough CLEANING, then get some sodium silicate or other ‘highly caustic’ detergent and dilute it 1:1 with water and SPRAY but DONT WIPE it from all the ‘under and hidden’ surfaces. Let the caustic solution DRY and it will become the modern ‘equivalent’ of ‘whitewashing’ … the process that our ancestors used for 1000s of years to control mold/mildew.
Once you have mildew unless you clean out ALL the dark and hidden places where the mold is growing … and is forming SPORES !!!!!!, and THEN chemically ‘whitewash’ those under surfaces, etc. you will have the mildew, etc. under control. You have to kill the ’spore forming areas’ to prevent or retard further outbreaks. No sense in attacking ‘visible’ mildew until you Clean out and ‘whitewash’ the hidden areas and ‘undersurfaces’ where its growing.
Caution: do not spray diluted caustics on varnished, oiled, ‘finely’ painted surfaces … its going to LIFT/’bubble’ the coating; on BARE teak it will extract the tannins from the teak.
Special Caution: Never ever clean ‘dry’ mildew, always ’spritz’ it before scrubbing. Only clean/remove wetted (can be clorox to wet-out) mildew. Wear respirator …. you ‘build-up’ additive toxicity to mildew.
Dark and hidden places:
1. the VENT exit area of your water tank
2. undersides of flooring and ‘pan’ liners
3. behind cabinets and hull liners.
4. behind ceiling panels
In the special case of Ty37’s, etc.:
Under the ‘flooring’ where the batteries are located under the cockpit – unscrew the flooring to check/clean.
The bilge area under the engine
The Cavernous Locker under the cockpit
The void area in the stern behind the steering quadrant
The Anchor chain locker … under the ‘false flooring’.
Inside the Dorade boxes !!!!!
The damn seat locker in the shower stall and under the shower stall floor pan.
Behind the ‘fascia’ for the chainplates … and especially if the chainplates are ‘dribbling’ – UNDER the flooring under the settees.
Anywhere the bulwark is leaking down into the hull.
The area UNDER the fridge where the fridge drain hose exits into the bilge !!!!
‘whitewashing’ …. just thoroughly clean and spray on and let dry any ‘caustic based’ detergent … I prefer Tuff-eNuff by Wallace and Sons (Florida) -used to be carried by WM so they can probably special order it – expensive. Stuff is good for mildew/fungal removal (those teeny black spots) on woven dacron sails. Other ’sprayables’: VERY very diluted lye solution, diluted TSP solution, etc. Mildew spores will not ‘activate’ on a ‘whitewashed’ (caustic) surface.
Special: if the boat is closed up for long periods of time – get some Paraformaldehyde crystals (read instructions/cautions carefully as this stuff is not compatible with human lung tissue) hold your breath and sprinkle onto large plastic containers before you leave and close the boat … when it ‘off gasses’ it attacks mildew cells. When returning to the boat HOLD YOUR BREATH, rush inside and open up any port-lite, hatch, etc. while holding your breath until you are forced to go outside. Open all possible openings and then let the boat air-out for ~30 minutes before you go back in (holding your breath) to put any remaining ParaF crystals into plastic bags. Youll probably have to ’smuggle’ ParaF in to Kalifornia, etc. Commercial form of Paraformaldehyde: “MildewGaz”, etc. — only way to kill the mildew spores during a long term closed-up boat.
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Last edited by tomperanteau; 02-16-2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Quote:
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Here's a repost of something that qef qfq
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Old 02-16-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jillmstar View Post
I am new to this boating thing. Can you explain to me these solar vents, where did you place them and how do they work?
Thanks
Jill

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They're best when used in pairs, one bringing air in, the other exhausting.

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Last edited by SlowButSteady; 02-16-2012 at 09:43 PM.
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