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Good morning,
As many of you know, I recently picked up a sailboat for almost free. That in it self is kind-a a oxymoron. I have learned a lot in this process and I will share as promised. Yesterday We drove the boat to the marina for a haul out. It was very slow in the water. I have a 2GM Yanmay in the belly. I was pushing her hard just to maintain 3 knots. This boat has a 2 blade folding prop. It doesn't give good propulsion in the best of conditions. I had a very difficult time in close quarters not hitting anything. It's been 30 years or so since the last time I had the helm of a boat this size. I have shared a few photos of the process and what a dirty bottom looks like after 4 1/5 years of no one taking care of it. Take a look at the before and after photos of the prop, "Amazing" I will continue to keep you updated. I would also invite you to see my blog. East Coast Lady
It has some great stuff. Thanks to all you guys that have helped me along the way. With out your support and advice this potential cruising sailor would have opted to charter with a captain for ever. Yesterday alone was a great adventure we had dolphins and sunshine. I love South Carolina in the spring. Here are some photos. Enjoy
I went back to the boat yard today. Somthing had just not set right with me. Wasent sure what it was. But I think i noticed the prop-shaft off center? All the other boats in the yard have a shaft that centers there rudder and keel? The C&C 30 it is off set to the starboard side? Does anybody know why the keel is not like the rest of the boats?
Is this not ODD??
I believe it's for the really excellent reason that if you need to pull the prop shaft you don't have to A: remove the rudder or B: disengage the shaft from the transmission and remove the engine. I wish my builder had done it this way.
Rich
Actually it's offset to PORT, (that's the other starboard )
It's not that unusual.. it has it's advantages, pulling the shaft is one - on many boats the rudder has to be removed. On a previous boat of ours the rudder stock was off plumb my 2 or 3 degrees and it drove me nuts to look at it until I realized that that way the propshaft slid by the rudder cleanly.
It may also avoid excessive propwash torque on the rudder under power, which can be tiring on well balanced rudders.
Bob Perry did the same on his Mirage 33.. mayhaps he'll drop in here and explain the whys of it for us. C&C did it on the Ontario 32 as well.. so not uncommon. Lots of old wooden boats avoided drilling through the deadwood in a similar fashion.
As an owner of a C&C 32, might i recommend some "putting it in reverse" practice in the mooring field. My boat partner and I have both noticed a decided tendency of the C&C to rapidly turn when she is put in reverse , due to the offset prop. Everything calms down after about 90 seconds of reverse, but it's good to practice backing up to your mooring ball repeatedly before trying for a slip.
Also, the C&C photo album website has an email thread that you can sign up for that has been full of extremely good advice. Have fun with your new "free" C&C!!!!
Also, the C&C photo album website has an email thread that you can sign up for that has been full of extremely good advice. Have fun with your new "free" C&C!!!!
To the first part, your right I need a lot of time learning the operational behavior of the Off-Set prop shaft and prop wash in general. it was my first time with this boat. It was also my first time in 30 years with a large Sailboat. I needed to get her out for a bottom job and the tide was in my favor with this full-moon. So I went for it. Not sure the folding prop gives good thrust, and did you see that bottom? Hahahah, I would not much thrust with any prop with that kind of beard.
And as for the C&C photo Album. Not real impressed with that. I have found this site much more knowledgeable on things related to sailing. Not many photos for an album? I am signed up and with the up to 30 foot area. Like 10 or 15 post in 2 years? Maybe I am not doing something right? Not sure how to post photos over there. But Thanks I will keep checking back to see if more people start using the C&C site. I signed up my vessel and information back in December still can't find it?
Thanks' again for your help guys.
I talked to the marina and here are the charges.
Haul-out bottom cleaning and 2 coat paint job with shaft zinc. $1,450.00
New Waterline stripes $ 600.00
Deep clean, buff and polish "gel-cot" $12. pr foot $ 540.00
Stuffing box repack with new boot? Not sure yet $ 350.00 Totaluke $ 2,940.00 Am I being over charged?
Having work done by a boatyard is expensive, your quote does not seem out of line. Most of the jobs listed I would consider pretty standard DIY fare, except the stuffing box replacement - I personally would have the yard do that.
You can try compounding but probably need to start with wetsanding. I think most boottops should be savable... if the boottop hazes up again before the end of next season, then paint, but even this is also a standard DIY job.
I have no place to work on it? They will not let me do work in their yard? Insuraance.
Being new at this they are nearly thru with the stuffing box. It needed rebuilt. The bolt holding the shaft to the collar broke off. they had to tap it out. they pulled the shaft and put the new rubber boot on the shaft with a new stuffing box cord.
The other way you could look at it is, you'll end up with a boat in very good order for short money. Convince yourself that you would have paid that much, or probably a lot more, for a boat in turn key condition. Plus, a C&C sells for pretty big money. I've looked at them, a few of them. One was a 32 and abandoned by the owner in the yard for years and years, The sails were still on it and out in the weather all that time. It did have small diesel engine though. But it needed a lot of work. It was really just a hull and motor and they couldn't even tell me if the motor was any good. The price was over $12,000. I doubt you'd find a boat like that in good working order for under $15,000.
So, if you can get her in the water and sailing for under $3,000 you're doing great!
Speaking of making her shine. Its amazing what a buffer can do the old chalky gel-coat. I can hardly wait till they finish. I will go back after work to see were they are at. They are going to restripe her too. Who ever did the last stripe job?? not so straight hahah. And thanks Paul, its people like that make doing this a joy
Keep up the good work...did they do the cutlass bearibng when they pulled thshaft to do the work on your stuffing box?
You will love this boats performance. The older C&C's are quite stout and stiff and will be quicker than most bopats larger in her age group. Dont listen to the crap about balsa cored as as long as you take care with all you thru hulls and anything peircing the core areas. deck or hull wise you will have no problem.
EWhen I bought mine it was between her, a 36 Sabre and a 37 Tartan all good quality boats. She was not in the best inside condition, but the hull and deck were in the best condition. You can always fix up the insides as we have over the years. With your and my sized C&C you get the comforts of a cruiser with the speed of a rocket ship.
The ones built after 1990 lost me on quality as the company turned and went more towar the racers and lightless..
I did not do the cutlass bearing there was no movement in the shaft when I tried to wiggle it. They are doing that stuff today. I went by the yesterday and the shaft was half in and half out. Had something hooked to it? I meant to take a picture. Anyway, should it be done even if there is no movement up and down or side to side inside the bearing? : confused:
yea,
It had water on the inside and sat low in the water for some time.
While it sat low it picked hard growth on the stripe. I dont realy
have the money for it right now. they said it would be much cheaper to
do now while its out of the water.
You are calling it a bootop's What are the differnt lines for? Sorry
if that is a dumb question.
Boottops or waterline?
Thanks,
While on this bottom Job thread. Should the top stripe, the Gold C&C stripe. I can do this on my own. I just dont know what color the gold is? Any Ideas?
Just have them lay the masking tape a half inch higher than the actual waterline and bottompaint up to it. You've got so many damn lines at the boot that losing one won't matter.
Regarding the cove stripe, according to the original spec sheet on the C&C 24 I read last weekend, painting the cove was a dealer option, and the customer could spec the colour.
Larger boast may be different, but based on the variety i have sen over the years, something tells me that's not the case.
Personally, I wouldn't go gold, on a white hull, but would go blue to match the boot stripe.
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