Easiest way to repaint the deck?

[smurphny]

Originally Posted by SloopJonB

That's why I like the Sikkens product so much - goes on as easily as any paint you ever used, it doesn't fill up moulded non-skid patterns, the abrasive in it is extremely fine so it doesn't tear things up - you can kneel on it with bare knees, it grips as well as or better than the coarse non-skids - I never slipped once on it, it holds up (9 years on my last boat) and it doesn't trap dirt. It also looks a lot better than the thick, globby non-skids IMHO. The attached pictures were taken when it was several years old - that's a 3 to 1 mix of white & grey

It's not the easiest stuff to find in my experience but it's worth tracking down - try it and you'll be hooked.

Will have to check it out. After recoring the decks, I wanted something that would cover everything and give me a good grip surface everywhere. The Kiwi certainly does that. Sailing solo, I really like the fact that all the round corners are covered so that a boat shoe will hold in those places that patches of non-skid usually miss because it's nicer looking to have taped off sections. When/if I ever pretty the boat up to sell, I'll probably sand off the Kiwi to give it a finer appearance. The Kiwi is more for function than looks. It reminds me of the stuff they spray in truck beds.

I talked to one of the best prof. painters in the NE at a place where I bought some Awlgrip. He said the method they use, doing high end yacht work is to spray the Awlgrip, shake on LOTS of non-skid with a large "salt shaker" and then wash off the excess when it's dry.

[travlineasy]

In the next few weeks I'll be removing as much deck hardware as possible, then begin the prep, which is mainly cleaning, sanding then cleaning again, and finally wiping the entire surface with solvent before painting. I'm probably going to go with Awlgrip for the glossy surfaces, and KiwiGrip for the non-skid. I sincerely believe that both products will give me at least 5 or more years of excellent service, and by that time I'll probably be too damned old to sail single-handed and sell the boat.

Cheers,

Gary

[PaulinVictoria]

The easiest way is to pay someone else to do it for you

Not the cheapest way of course.

[bljones]

Originally Posted by scratchee

Blj, were you happy with the masked fittings in your photo?

Absolutely. None of the stanchions leaked, and to access the nuts would require removing the ceiling in the cabin which would require removing some cabinetry, and then rebedding the stanchion bases and reinstalling and...
Jones's Law of Boat Repair #31: The probability of a fitting that had never leaked before removal leaking after reinstallation is better than 80%. Sleeping dogs are best left slumbering.

Now, having said all of that, keep in mind that the hardware/deck interface was watertight, and this is a boat that is worth about $5K. The value of the boat is not going to be either significantly enhanced or significantly depreciated by the hardware not being removed when painted. IF the hardware needed rebedding and/or IF the quality of the paint prep was going to have a significant impact on the value of the vessel, then I endorse stripping the hardware from the deck and rebedding it properly after awlgripping.

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the stanchion masking tape does not meet the deck. there is a hairline "reveal", allowing paint to meet the stanchion and cleat bases for a better finish.

[SloopJonB]

Originally Posted by bljones

The value of the boat is not going to be either significantly enhanced or significantly depreciated by the hardware not being removed when painted. IF the hardware needed rebedding and/or IF the quality of the paint prep was going to have a significant impact on the value of the vessel, then I endorse stripping the hardware from the deck and rebedding it properly after awlgripping.

How about plain old pride of workmanship?

[scratchee]

Originally Posted by SloopJonB

How about plain old pride of workmanship?

I can't speak for BLJ, but in my case that brings us back to a realistic assessment of the time I have available. I am the type of person who would notice little details like that from a paint job I had done myself. Unfortunately, this means I'm also the type of person who won't even start a project for years, if ever, because of the time required. This time, I'd like to have a nice looking sailboat within a year rather than a pristine looking sailboat in ten years...or never.

Anyway, thanks to the OP and to those who gave advice here. I'll probably be using some of it.

[bljones]

Originally Posted by SloopJonB

How about plain old pride of workmanship?

Back to Jones's Law- if it didn't leak before, it WILL leak after I touch it.
Pride of workmanship takes a backseat to prudence.

[smurphny]

Originally Posted by travlineasy

In the next few weeks I'll be removing as much deck hardware as possible, then begin the prep, which is mainly cleaning, sanding then cleaning again, and finally wiping the entire surface with solvent before painting. I'm probably going to go with Awlgrip for the glossy surfaces, and KiwiGrip for the non-skid. I sincerely believe that both products will give me at least 5 or more years of excellent service, and by that time I'll probably be too damned old to sail single-handed and sell the boat.

Cheers,

Gary

Things I learned about the Kiwi: 1. It dries too quickly to work alone if the temp. is high. On a hot day, have someone apply the goop and someone roll in the texture. 2. Get it off stuff quickly. REMOVE TAPE before it sets up hard because the tape will pull up edges if left on too long. 3. It's easy to get too much texture. Less is more. 4. It's easily overcoated and patched even after a couple of years. 5. Wash rollers quickly after use. 6. To get in around tight spots with texture, cut off pieces of roller cover and use by hand. 7. It covers really well so it's easy to make thin spots. A thick, even layer is best. If working with>1 person, think I'd use a notched trowel to apply as opposed to the way I do it alone by brush/guestimating thickness.

[travlineasy]

Thanks Smurf,

I saw a video about applying the non-skid and they pretty much said the same thing. It dries very fast, and you need to remove the tape immediately or you'll end up peeling off the finish you just applied. I also found some good information about using a new, silver tape that doesn't leave a residue and seals very well.

Hopefully, I'll be able to begin removing the deck hardware next Thursday, while it's still relatively cold up here in Maryland. I figured on three days of prep, then the fun begins.

Cheers,

Gary

[SloopJonB]

Originally Posted by travlineasy

Thanks Smurf,

I saw a video about applying the non-skid and they pretty much said the same thing. It dries very fast, and you need to remove the tape immediately or you'll end up peeling off the finish you just applied. I also found some good information about using a new, silver tape that doesn't leave a residue and seals very well.

Hopefully, I'll be able to begin removing the deck hardware next Thursday, while it's still relatively cold up here in Maryland. I figured on three days of prep, then the fun begins. Cheers, Gary

I repeat my advice - check out the Sikkens stuff - NONE of those problems with application or the negatives with the finished surface and it provides as much grip as anything I've ever walked on. Those very coarse surfaces must be hard on sails & lines as well.