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Old 04-29-2012
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Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

If you were a finish carpenter/joiner then the measurements ought to be a piece of cake. Do some decent drawings for the fabricator and you should be able to have the full set made ahead of time (exc. perhaps the stem fitting, but even that's a possibility.)

Use caution and common sense for the rest. You'll be fine.

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Old 04-30-2012
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Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Originally Posted by Controlled Jibe View Post
You raise a good question. We'd been warned to take the piece itself to the machinist for exact duplication. I trust my measuring (I was a trim carpenter in a former life), but is it asking for trouble to transfer measurements too many times? How far does a bolt hole have to be off before you start getting into complications? This would obviously be the way to go if we're not introducing too much of a risk of error. Thoughts?

And while we're on the subject, opinions on bedding compounds???
The flat pieces should be no problem at all if you can read a ruler. You may well find that they are all the same, making it easy. I used the old chainplates for backing plates and just used the same hole spacing on the new plates, using 2" instead of the original 1-1/2". Pearson cut all the plain pieces the same. The bow and mast top piece are pretty complicated. I had to remove them and take them home to duplicate carefully. They need quite a bit of welding which is tough to do at the boat unless you have portable welding equip. I have been stick welding all my parts with Super Missileweld Rod which is awesome stuff and works without fancy TIG equipment. The welds are not a neat as gas-shielded but the penetration, strength and corrosion-resistance is very good. All you need is a good AC/DC welder using reverse polarity, a grinder and chop saw with a metal blade. Polishing is a PITA but worthwhile considering how much you can save. With the crazy prices to duplicate stuff at a machine shop, it really pays to DIY.
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Old 04-30-2012
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Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Originally Posted by smurphny View Post
You may well find that they are all the same, making it easy.
That's what I was thinking - measure them yourself and see how many match. At a minimum, each shroud chain will have a mate on the other side and you may get lucky and find everything but the headstay fitting is the same. If that's the case, just remove one and have the shop use it as a pattern and make up as many as you need.

Using one as a pattern will also prevent any slight mismatch between the SAE originals and the metric measures the Mexican shops will be using. A couple of millimeters off will keep your boltholes from lining up properly. If they can use one of yours as a template, that is eliminated.
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Last edited by SloopJonB; 04-30-2012 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 04-30-2012
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Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

I replaced all of our chainplates and had them done at a machine shop. All of them were just a wee bit different requiring each one to be made individually and numbered so they went back in the right spot. PITA. You may have to settle on different dimensions of the raw SS 316 stock than the original (we went up in width and thickness, but milled some down so they would fit in some places), not all dimensions are available. Finding a shop that will polish them was tough, and not cheap, you might want to check on that too. Bedding compound- 3M5200 does NOT stick to mirror polished SS, I think I would try butyl from Mainesail if I had to do it over (and I will unfortunately). You should also use this opportunity to pot the chainplate holes in the deck if it's balsa cored.
SV Laurie Anne

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Last edited by jrd22; 05-02-2012 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 05-01-2012
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Re: Replacing Chainplates on the Water

Contact this guy Sweet blog by the way. Atom Voyages - Home
PS he also has a free e book you should read

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