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post #11 of 26 Old 06-17-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

If that were my boat, I would change that to a proper seacock and thru hull with a backing plate. To me that does not look safe since if it breaks you could sink the boat. If you want to open and close that valve then just heat the valve (handle area) and squirt penetrating oil on the valve. It will likely work again but do not really upon it since if it looks like that on the external surface just imagine the rust and corrosion on the internal parts of that valve might look like. It could start to leak once you launch the boat so I strongly recommend changing the seacock and thru hull before launching.

Again go to this link Compass Marine's Photo Galleries at pbase.com and read the how-to article on changing out a seacock and thru hull. You might want to research other sources too. If you are relatively handy you might be able to take on this task, if you haven't changed one out then you might want to work with someone to insure a proper installation.

Last edited by ambianceack; 06-17-2012 at 08:17 AM. Reason: typo
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post #12 of 26 Old 06-17-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

Great link! I don't have a boat yet but have squirreled away that bookmark for when I do. Thanks!
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post #13 of 26 Old 06-17-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

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Originally Posted by sgjfrods View Post
http://motorboatsmonthly.media.ipcdi..._5Seacocks.jpg

I couldn't work out how to upload the a actual seacock but this is the same type. Is the best method still to pull the hose and get some heat in there with some penetrating oil?

Thanks very much
OK, while I realize that the pic you've linked is someone else's install, what you're looking at there is not a seacock but a gate valve. Gate valves are not recommended for use as seacocks, for a variety of reasons. First is that they are notorious for seizing up (as you've discovered.)

More importantly, a proper seacock can be closed with a simple quarter turn. You can also tell with a quick glance is a seacock is open or closed.

I'm with the others in strongly recommending that you remove the old set up and replace it with a real seacock.
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post #14 of 26 Old 06-17-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Seized seacock

This is not the seacock on my boat it was just a google image search because i couldn't work out how to upload the actual picture.
The seacock in question is in much better condition.
Thanks very much.
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post #15 of 26 Old 06-17-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

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The seacock in question is in much better condition.
.
But it's still a gate valve and not a seacock. If it's siezed, then it's toast anyway. Do yourself a favor and cut the puppy out and replace it with a real seacock.
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post #16 of 26 Old 06-17-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

If the "seacock" in question looks anything like the pic in your link, it's almost certainly a gate valve. Gate valves are problematic for several reasons, not the least of which is that it is extremely easy to think they are closed when they are actually partially open. You need to replace that valve with either a traditional seacock or, as is more common these days, a ball-valve. Either of these require a quarter-turn to open or close, and so one can tell at a glance which position the valve is in (if the handle is in line with the flow the valve is open, if it is normal to the flow the valve is closed).

You can replace the valve with the boat in the water, as long as the thru-hull is in good condition. Just spin the old valve off and spin the new one on. It will seem like a "boatload" of water is coming into the boat while you are fiddling with the valves, but in reality it will just be a few gallons. However, if the thru-hull is at all suspect, do yourself a favor and pull the boat out of the water so that you can replace the valve and thru-hull at the same time.

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post #17 of 26 Old 06-17-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

As others said, if the valve you have looks like the one in the picture it's likely a gate valve and not a seacock. If it's a gate valve and it's seized, your chances of freeing it are highly unlikely. Equally importantly, a gate valve isn't considered appropriate for a boat, so might as well channel that energy to replacing it. Also, I would advise against combining WD40 (flammable), a torch in a confined space and a fiberglass boat.
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post #18 of 26 Old 06-18-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Seized seacock

Okay, just to confirm this is an outlet valve for the sink, which is above the waterline by about 8 inches. But even so you think this should be replaced to a propper seacock? The boat is out of the water though.
Thanks
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post #19 of 26 Old 06-18-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

In your place I would change it, without hesitation. Even if it is above the waterline, what if you are heeling? I have had sinks flood before, not a disaster of course, but messy and irritating! And it is good practice to learn how these things should be done...

Like many sailors, I am a bit neurotic about critical components; e.g. only stainless steel in the boat, always marine grade wire, correct seacocks, etc. Generally it costs a bit more, and people will argue alternatives are "generally okay", but it is good practice to use the right parts for the job.
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post #20 of 26 Old 06-18-2012
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Re: Seized seacock

Something that close to the waterline should really have something other than a valve screwed onto a thru-hull. There's just too much leverage in that arm without a base to spread the load. Look into just a base and then you can screw a new bronze ball valve/hose barb onto that. It's a bit less expensive than buying a real seacock.

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