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  #31  
Old 07-29-2012
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Re: alberg 30' outboard bracket?

Ok, bad news - that boat is unsafe for travel and it is not worth $3400. That boat is debt that you are assuming from the start, and it has no actual value in it's current shape.

It may have slight value in parting it out, although not very much and certainly not something I could recommend you get into.

She's rough and in need of more than TLC, she needs an entire refit from stem to stern. She needs to be hauled and gutted, and none of the through hulls are any good. You'd wind up being able to use the winches, mast, cleats and some fittings, and the hull - everything else would need to be replaced.

Sorry for the bad news, I was hoping for you that it was the deal it appeared to be.
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Old 07-29-2012
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Re: alberg 30' outboard bracket?

Bummer. Don't let it get you down though, There are boats that are seaworthy now for less money out there. Save up so you can wheel and deal , a lot of people are trying to get out from under their boats and If you wave a couple of grand in their face they will generally take it. My buddy has a structurally sound Trip Columbia 26 for a grand down here in the Key's.
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Old 07-29-2012
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alberg 30' outboard bracket?

Yah it was a little rougher then I thought when I saw it. He did replace all the through hulls with bronze ones and
New shut offs. The ball type. Except the two in the Lazzerette. The wood toe rails and cockpit locker covers/doors and aft wood combing all need work. And I knew the motor was bad. But structurally it looks sound. The woodwork inside is in good shape also. The cockpit ice box needs work/new lining also. But I will take your word and walk. I drove 7 hours today to go look at it. That sucks. But maybe it's for the best
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  #34  
Old 07-29-2012
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Re: alberg 30' outboard bracket?

It's a bummer but don't let it affect you, there are tons of boats out there. The only way that boat works is if you get it for free and get it on the hard somehow, then do a total refit.

Keep looking and keep posting about potentials here in this thread. Your boat will find you, no worries!
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alberg 30' outboard bracket?

Thank you
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Old 08-02-2012
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alberg 30' outboard bracket?

What size dimensions did you use on the G10 backing plate. LxWxThickness? Would it be alright or any cheaper to use SS. and if so how thick? I am looking at another Alberg in Wilmington NC. Either way I will need a kicker. Garelick 71091
makes a kicker bracket that has 15" of travel. But its aluminum, is that a problem? Using stainless bolts with aluminum isn't good right? The only thing I can't figure out is if it's adjustable for the slanted transom. I don't want to have to make another bracket or have one made to compensate.
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Last edited by champlain94; 08-02-2012 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 08-03-2012
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Re: alberg 30' outboard bracket?

I bought bar stock G-10, 2"x1/4" (same as my bronze bar stock). I believe we ordered the G-10 from McMaster Carr (google that, I may have spelled it wrong). They had a bunch of sizes, find what works for your application best.

Regarding the SS, by the time you have it cut and electro polished, you'd prolly be at more money than had you made you own bronze CP's. Also worth noting is the lack of crevice corrosion issues on bronze with a "through the deck" chainplate like on the A-30 (keep in mind that it'd prolly never be an issue though, as it'd take years for crevice corrosion to happen on new SS cp's. Still though - I like bronze, zero problems forever).

You can use the aluminum bracket with SS bolts, just make sure to slather the bolts up with anhydrous lanolin or something else that creates a barrier between the dissimilar metals (and maintain it over time). It isn't ideal though, so keep that in mind as well.

I'll answer your PM as well, but I hope this helps here at least..
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Re: alberg 30' outboard bracket?

Quote:
Originally Posted by champlain94
What size dimensions did you use on the G10 backing plate. LxWxThickness? Would it be alright or any cheaper to use SS. and if so how thick? I am looking at another 30 in Wilmington NC. Either way I will need a kicker. Garelick 71091
makes a kicker bracket that has 15" of travel. Do you think that's enough travel so that I don't have to lower the mounting plate. But its also aluminum, is that a problem? Using stainless bolts with aluminum isn't good right? The only thing I can't figure out is if it's adjustable for the slanted transom. I don't want to have to make another bracket or have one made to compensate.

Did you put bronze through hulls in your boat? Did you use a backing plate on the inside. If so. Wood or fiberglass. Also did you use the type of seacock that has a flange and is through bolted with three bolts. Is this kind neccesarry.
Regarding the bracket height, this is something you're for sure going to want to "field test" - hold whatever bracket on the transom and get a real world feel for whether it'll be long enough - I have no way to know where your waterline actually is.

My two through hulls were bronze ball valve type, new and through bolted as they should be. Yes on the backing plates, I made mine from by taking a solid piece of mahogany and gluing (laminating) another thinner piece of mahogany on top (crossing the grains for strength - ok, and 'cause it looks cool). Then I coated them in epoxy before installing. Picture:




Bed with 4200 (never ever use 5200 - ever, on anything). Note the bronze through bolts and two bronze nuts on each bolt..

Last edited by chrisncate; 08-03-2012 at 01:12 AM.
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