Buying a 30-40 year old boat - your opinions - Page 2

SloopJonB · #11 10-13-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by JulieMor

I can handle much of that. I'm an electrician and an avid woodworker. I have a pretty good mechanical aptitude. And I like the satisfaction of fixing things myself.

On my dad's boat I installed all the electronics, repaired the generator, did most of the oil changes, repaired the heads, maintained and rebuilt the pumps, sanded the entire bottom (once) and painted it, season after season. I even did some gelcoat repairs.

Careful what you reveal - you could end up with a legion of stalkers comprised of recently divorced Sailnetters.

As to the new boats being soulless - absolutely right. My experience (limited) with current new boats (this millennium) is that they pretty much stay that way as well.

Same as current cars. Maybe it's as simple as them being TOO perfect.

When I'm looking & dreaming on Yachtworld I set the year filter at 2000.

Maybe I'm just getting old, but I don't think so - I absolutely LOVE GPS plotters and have no desire to have to rely solely on paper charts, hand bearing compasses, lead lines etc.

Flybyknight · #12 10-13-2012

Well, let's look at it from another angle:
"What deficiencies would cause rejection"?
Structure: balsa core under the water line.
Corroded chain plates
Keel attachment
Questionable power plant
What ever bugs you.

Here's a 37 year old Cape Dory 25 resurrected from discard.
BTW, I'm a firm believer in a full keel.

wingNwing · #13 10-13-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by chef2sail

Wing.."the Gozzard is mine ( smile)

Dave

LOL, Dave. Ask them to give you a discount because of all the drool we left in that forward stateroom/salon.

b40Ibis · #14 10-13-2012

We bought a 1974 Bermuda 40 2 years ago. This boat was completely refit 7 years ago including basically everything by a yard not a D.I.Y. The p.o. never recoops their investment in a sell. My advice is to do this- buy a boat that the p.o. has refit. You mentioned your an electrician and work w/wood. Older boats tend to have more brightwork, so that will keep you busy keeping her bright. Older hulls, previous to the oil crisis of '72 are generally a good bet.
You mention the CSY. my father had a 44 for about 10 years. Good, big roomy boat . Mom liked it...(don't get the walk thru)

chef2sail · #15 10-13-2012

Nothing wrong with balsa below the waterline as long as there are no intrusion already. The balsa core actually lends to the boats stiffness and structural integrity. If taken care of with the proper treatment of the thru hulls when they were bedded in your should not see any difference in moisture readings between balsa cored/ foam cored/ no cored boats. You are eliminating many fine boats here such as Tartans, Sabres etch

Our boat has end grain balsa which has been correctly handled and it gives the boat adde structure you don't find on similarly sized boats. The thru hulls are placed in areas where there is only the epoxy and the coring removed to prevent water intrusion.I my opinion this should not be a disqualifier or you will look past many fine designed and made boats

Anyplace thru hulls or equipment is placed thru laminate wether above or below the waterline a proper procedure must be followed to prevent water intrusion.

Dave

dugout · #16 10-13-2012

I have a 40 year old boat. The only original items are the monel fuel tank, mast, and boom along with the hull decks, hatches, rudder. Everything else has been updated at some point. With a sound hull and deck the rest becomes academic, right. On an older boat it's all about the care and upkeep that has been done over the years. I feel some older boats are better than new. Others are 10 years or so behind in maintenance and these would be a major commitment beyond the normal commitment of boat ownership. Boats pick you for the most part. Just like in life, make sure you can provide what it needs and it can provide what you need.

Barquito · #17 10-13-2012

Quote:

I feel some older boats are better than new. Others are 10 years or so behind in maintenance and these would be a major commitment beyond the normal commitment of boat ownership

.

I think of boat care as a list of equipment that each has it's own duty cycle. At some point each thing needs to be replaced. If you get a new boat, all the duty cycles are starting at zero. If you get a used boat, everything is at various points in the duty cycle. Assuming the boat was well cared for, you just have to pick up the process and do whatever is next.

b40Ibis · #18 10-13-2012

The sabre 456 is a sweeeet Maine built boat. No doubt. But- $500k! Half million! (I am Guessing, cause they don't even give the price!). I just y-world the Sabres up, there is a 426 for $379k, 2006 model here in Charleston.

Just my opinion- spend half on a refit classic, spend the other half enjoying and maintaining her.

awahl · #19 10-13-2012

After almost buying a couple of vastly different not quite 30 year old boats (88 IP 31 and 89 Hunter 30)....we have decided on an 1982 Endeavour 32.

For the condition, updates made, quality of the boat (comparatively both at the time it was new and today)- we feel that we're getting a good deal and nice combination of features/safety/performance -for the period and price point we're buying in....

Are we a little concerned about it being 30 years old and potential to do some updates...? Yes, but we want to make *some* of those updates to make it ours... For others that we must do - we just do.

For us this is part of the whole experience...

We're excited as heck.

Flybyknight · #20 10-13-2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by chef2sail

Nothing wrong with balsa below the waterline as long as there are no intrusion already. The balsa core actually lends to the boats stiffness and structural integrity. If taken care of with the proper treatment of the thru hulls when they were bedded in your should not see any difference in moisture readings between balsa cored/ foam cored/ no cored boats. You are eliminating many fine boats here such as Tartans, Sabres etch

Our boat has end grain balsa which has been correctly handled and it gives the boat adde structure you don't find on similarly sized boats. The thru hulls are placed in areas where there is only the epoxy and the coring removed to prevent water intrusion.I my opinion this should not be a disqualifier or you will look past many fine designed and made boats

Anyplace thru hulls or equipment is placed thru laminate wether above or below the waterline a proper procedure must be followed to prevent water intrusion.

Dave

That's a big if Dave and the consequences of a screw up here are, well I'll leave that to your imagination.