Roller furling lead blocks??? - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-20-2012 Thread Starter
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Roller furling lead blocks???

Have a 24' and just got a roller furling setup with a 135 genoa.....is there an advantage to getting lead blocks with ratchets ie. the Harken H7402 and spending the extra $30 or am I just as good with the regular block

thanks to all or anyone who can help
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-20-2012
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

1 rachet block at the stern end of the furling line should suffice.
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post #3 of 15 Old 12-20-2012
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

Rather spend it on a cam cleat.
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-20-2012
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

Don't waste your money. I do not have any on my 40 footer so the headsail on your 24' should be fairly easy to handle without one. And Seaduction is right, you generally only put one on the end near the cockpit. I cannot imagine the noise if you used them all the way up the deck.

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post #5 of 15 Old 12-20-2012
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

Agree with Seaduction
1 hexaratchet at/near the stern .... will allow controlled 'release' of the furling line, will allow precise furling control especially when the sail is fully windloaded or overpowered.

Also ... will prevent potential 'rope burns' of your hands, will allow 'precise' release, will allow you to 'rest' (by simply applying slight tension to the line) as you pull-in incrementally when its blowing.

Without the hexaratchet you will have no way other than to 'snub', except around a cleat etc. or simply take all the strain with your hands. The foremost benefit of a hexaratchet is its ability to 'snub' as you release line tension.

Just one hexaratchet (w/ becket or as a cheek block), located on at the stern or stern rail will do.

BTW - on many 'hot' and high-end sport-boats most of the winches are replaced with various forms of hexaratchets, good for main-sheeting and jib-sheeting too.
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-20-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

thanks everyone....the last time i rigged a sailboat there were no roller furlers

just a follow up if i might....i had intended to put a block on a stanchion up near the furler and then a second block or fairlead leading back to the front of the cockpit where i would put a cam cleat

the gist of what i am getting is either a) I really dont need the Harken H7402 ( is that what you are calling a hexaratchet or b) if i do use one, it should be the second one back to help me ease and pull the line....it wouldn't be going all the back to the stern?
right? and does the hexaratchet replace a cam cleat?

thanks some more
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-21-2012
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

The Hexaratchet is the original ratcheting block (do sailnet site-search for: 'hexaratchet + 043').... the H7402 is the more modern carbo-ratchet block but doesnt have a 'switch' to turn on/off the ratcheting feature. Both versions are similar in price. The friction release value on each is: 10:1 on both .... meaning such blocks will hold 100 pounds of sheet force per 10 pounds of 'hand force' on the line.

To make either of these styles work to maximum 'snub' you should at least have 180 of the sheave engaged with line .... thats why the recommendation of having a hexaratchet or carbo-ratchet (H7402) at near the stern ... and the 'furtherest' block in the series 'away' from the furler. Having the ratchet block 'behind you' and at the stern pretty much insures that at least half of the 'fluted' sheave is in contact with the control line.

Where the hexartachet or carbo-ratchet REALLY comes in handy is when the jib is already partly furled, its now blowing harder stink, and you dont want the extreme windloaded sail on the furler to 'get away from you' and fully open by mistake; the ratcheting blocks with their 'fluted' sheave produce a LOT of friction on the line ... 10:1 in comparison to the strain that you put onto the 'tail end' of the rope .... a non-ratchet block has NO controlable friction (1:1) from the pressure that which you 'tail' (resist) the control line. Ratchet blocks have to be 'matched' to the exact diameter of the line you are using.

These blocks are not substitutes for cleats ... you will need either a cam cleat or a horn cleat to terminate the line.

Last edited by RichH; 12-21-2012 at 01:00 AM.
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-21-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

Hey Rich..

I really appreciate your taking time to send info my way....its tough sweating these concepts out in the middle of a Catskill snow storm from catalogues

last little gnawing probably ignorant question as I pretty much understand what you are saying..

does the ratchet block give me any difficulty when i want to open the sail more?

thanks
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post #9 of 15 Old 12-21-2012
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

I use the bottom right one on my boat and it works perfect. It gives good piece of mind when the furler is furled and put away. SPINLOCK PXR Camcleats at West Marine

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post #10 of 15 Old 12-21-2012 Thread Starter
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Re: Roller furling lead blocks???

thanks Simon


cept for a new install....i wouldn't need the retrofit one.....right?

the single or the swivel would do.....right?

pinning you down relieves my anxiety...


peter
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