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Boat Interior Rennovation

2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  SloopJonB 
#1 ·
First boat, just purchased. About 30 years ago the interior had been ruined when the cockpit and cabin flooded while sitting on the hard during a hurricane. The then owner installed a very spartan but functional interior.

I'd like to go ahead and redo it myself. The tear-out is almost done. I'm thinking I need to install ribs to create attachment points for the install.

Would 3M 5200 be appropriate to use for solid rib attachments to the hull?

I'd like to avoid drilling into the hull with mechanical fasteners, and finding good weather to put-in glass ribs will be difficult and messy.

Thoughts?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
What does a Lauren Koster 26 look like? Any pics??

If you're adding ceilings and the like using 5200 to epoxy to glue some ribs into place makes sense.. but if you're considering adding structure (cabinets, berths, and esp bulkheads) then tabbing into place with cloth and epoxy will probably be a better approach. (Assuming the boat is f/g?)

Once the primary bulkheads are in place, then cleats can be attached in the appropriate places to hold fronts, seats, etc in a way that is actually non-destructively removable later on if necessary.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Yes, the attachments/ribs would be for structural aspects of the install.

Since I should go with glass, any recommendations on what temperature I should heat the interior? Will the fact that the hull will wick-away heat fairly quickly cause problems with the bond?

We're averaging around 30 degree outside temp most days. I can try and get the interior up to temp with a space heater. Would you recommend running a propane or electric? Should I run it for days before attempting any work to make sure the hull is heated through?

Here's a link to the boat: Laurin 28

Here's a link to Sailboat Data on the 32' (same boat design, just larger): LAURIN 32 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com

Thanks.
 
#4 ·
Pretty boat!

As others said, go with epoxy and tabs.

I suggest that you get your hands on a copy of "this old boat" (Don Casey) for useful tips. I am not familiar with your boat, but I have seen some boats damaged by an interior install where the wood panels were securely fitted and glued in the hull. A combination of natural hull flex and wood expansion at these "hard spots" caused gelcoat cracking and possibly worse. Some interior panels benefit from tabs with with foam-filled spaces (1/4") between the wood and the hull/deck. Especially bulkheads. But there are lots of folks on this site with waaayyyy more experience in boatbuilding than I.

I live in California, so have not had as much experience as many in working in 30degree temperatures. I would keep things warmer for ease of working, if nothing else; generally epoxy resin will cure in lower temperatures, it'll just take longer. However I would worry about condensation effecting your work...so stay warm!

Good luck!
 
#5 · (Edited)
It will be difficult, I suspect, to get a real good bond with the substrate so cold.. a dehumidifier in addition to interior heat will minimize condensation. I think I'd try to drape outside of the hull with old blankets in the area you're working to try and minimize the temperature differential across the hull skin. Epoxy will eventually cure esp if you use the low temp hardeners. However if using the fast hardeners you'll need to be careful of just how much you do heat the interior. The Stitched Biaxial 1708 cloth is really nice to work with, it molds to some of the compound curves much more nicely than regular roving and the stitched on CSM gives you better build with fewer layers. It's also available in tape rolls (2/4/6") to minimize cutting.

If you're sending out for your raw materials (epoxy/cloth) anyway you might want to give Ultra Lux Plastics in Richmond, BC a call...George has great resin kits at good prices and knows his stuff too. 604 278 8333
 
#8 · (Edited)
All good advice. I second (actually first;)) Fasters recommendation about Ultra Lux as a supplier.

I'd heat the interior as you plan to and then simply make up a small test lamination onboard to see how the cure goes. It will help you get familiarized with your materials as well. Cover a piece of cardboard or plywood with plastic sheet and roll & squeegee a typical laminate schedule - if it works O/K, go ahead otherwise wait for warmer weather.

Also, since you appear to be starting from the empty hull, in addition to "This Old Boat" I'd recommend a copy of "From a Bare Hull" by Mate.

Have fun.

P.S. re: the stitched 1708 - be certain to get the stuff with epoxy compatible matte. Regular matte is held together with a styrene soluble binder and there ain't no styrene in epoxy.
 
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