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post #1 of 12 Old 01-13-2013 Thread Starter
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hook scraper

I read in don caseys book to use a hook scraper for the hull bottom paint removal. Does anyone know who sells a quality scraper?
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-13-2013
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Re: hook scraper

Stanley makes a line of scrapers, have a look at the link below

Stanley Scraper - Lowest Prices & Best Deals on Stanley Scraper - Pronto.com

One of the issues with the standard Stanley scraper blades that I've used is that they are slightly convex along the edge, with is exactly what you don't need when working on a convex shape like the outside of the hull.. you get a very narrow contact area. However on that page there looks to be a variety of blade shapes.

If you have access to a metal shear, interestingly an undressed sheared edge of SS makes a pretty good scraper for varnish. It doesn't last all that long but you can cut plenty from scrap SS.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-13-2013
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Re: hook scraper

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Originally Posted by stevieb7 View Post
I read in don caseys book to use a hook scraper for the hull bottom paint removal. Does anyone know who sells a quality scraper?
Stevie,

Local hardware stores & big box stores carry them. That said, having used a hook scraper for bottom paint removal I'm absolutely certain that I'll never try it again. If you decide to give it a shot, then do yourself a really big favor -- wear a complete bunny suit, head cover, gloves, a quality dust mask, and eye protection. Spend the extra money on a carbide scraper, and buy plenty of spare blades. Might as well buy some Wheaties as well, 'cause it's gonna be a real arm workout.

A method many here recommend (personally I cannot, since I've yet to try it myself) is to wet sand with a drywall sanding pad and pole. Waaaaaay, way less dust and easier on the arms.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-14-2013
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Re: hook scraper

Learn to burnish a burr onto your scraper, use a piece of HSS or cobalt steel. It takes some practice, but when you get the hang of it, you will only need to redo it 3 or 4 times for a whole hull, instead of every 3-4 minutes of standard sharpening. The bottom paint will seem to explode off the hull. Works well for teak decks and varnish removal too instead of sanding. Brian

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-14-2013
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Re: hook scraper

Here is a link to give you an idea what I mean.
Scrapers Part 1

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post #6 of 12 Old 01-14-2013
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Re: hook scraper

+1 to the carbide scrapers. Also, go slow, once you get the paint to "break"(a small match removed down to gel-coat, then using one edge of the scraper, move forward in small increments, don't try to over-reach. I often find that 1/4" is the most I can do, the scraper glides along the gelcoat, and and removing 1/4" all the way down to gel-coat reduces dust, effort and time it takes versus trying to take full width scrapes.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-14-2013
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Re: hook scraper

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Originally Posted by Capnblu View Post
Learn to burnish a burr onto your scraper, use a piece of HSS or cobalt steel. It takes some practice, but when you get the hang of it, you will only need to redo it 3 or 4 times for a whole hull, instead of every 3-4 minutes of standard sharpening. The bottom paint will seem to explode off the hull. Works well for teak decks and varnish removal too instead of sanding. Brian
Capn is dead on right! Keep a file handy; the "edge" only lasts a few dozen scrapes on fiberglass! You can get a quick and easy "burr" with a file but the right way is as described in the link Capn provided. without that edge.. hook scraping is nearly impossible without super person strength!

Oh.. and they work really well on teak! But teak is full of silica and takes the edge off cutting tools quickly.

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-14-2013
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Re: hook scraper

As I learned to burr the edge on my scraper, I found I could go further, and further before having to redo it. I am now to the point that a 42' teak deck only requires 3 sharpenings. sharp a a scalpel, and stays that way!

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Re: hook scraper

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Originally Posted by deniseO30 View Post
Capn is dead on right! Keep a file handy; the "edge" only lasts a few dozen scrapes on fiberglass! You can get a quick and easy "burr" with a file but the right way is as described in the link Capn provided. without that edge.. hook scraping is nearly impossible without super person strength!

Oh.. and they work really well on teak! But teak is full of silica and takes the edge off cutting tools quickly.
Carbide :-)
No filing. Sharpen with a knife stone, but they last an hour between flipping.
Can't imagine doing a big boat with a regular scraper.
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-14-2013
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Re: hook scraper

Haha Jg, you must be a real glutton for punishment, the burr is the secret not the hardness of the scraping blade. If you use HSS steel, or cobalt steel to create the burr, you will be amazed at what you can accomplish. The burr is as sharp as a scalpel, and carbide can't be sharpened or manipulated to achieve the same results, especially with a knife stone. Also, it helps to hone the edge before burring up to 2000-3000 grit. The higher the better. I like 5000 grit myself.

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