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post #11 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

couple additions:

rubber sheet - wrap it around a hose and clamp in place or lay across the hole from the outside. tie in place with lines or sails

toilet wax ring - jam it onto/into a busted thru-hull
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post #12 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

An old Greek sea captain once told us, when you get a puncture (steel hull obviously) that you can't get to outside and it's jagged inside, you can stop it with....


A piece of meat. Yeah, for true. A big roast or similar, braced hard into the hole, will shape itself and plug it.

Then I guess you could have salt beef stew after you make it to the beach...
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post #13 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

A sheet of plastic large enough to cover entire bottom of boat, heavy mil,stores flat easy. keep edges above water lines and you have a new vessel!...Dale

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post #14 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

In addition to some of the above mentioned items, carry 30 x 40" heavy cloth backed
rubber blankets from my printing business(about 1/8th inch thick) installed grommets
on corners. Used on outside of hull as one would use a sail around hull to slow down
water. Also heavy duty rubber bladder with air valve to stuff and inflate where needed. Also carry heavy duty bubble wrap to conform to irregular shapes. Have no
second thoughts about screwing into hull if will result in a seal.
Have sailed in cold water/winter makes you think about such things.
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post #15 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

Failures at thru-hulls or shaft logs will generally be the easiest leaks to deal with... Far more catastrophic, would be the sort of breach or structural failure cause by a collision at the bow, or a rudder post failure...

A true offshore boat should have collision bulkheads that will isolate or contain the ingress of water at either of these locations. It amazes me that more production builders don't take this into account, especially at the bow. On most boats, it would be quite simple to create a watertight bulkhead beneath the forward portion of the vee-berth, for example. I've done so on my boat, by dedicating that space to a holding tank, integral to the hull...

On most boats, isolating the area around the rudderpost is gonna be considerably more problematic. One of the biggest advantages of a tiller in a bluewater boat, IMHO, is the ease with which the rudderpost can be contained within a larger tube running up to deck level. With a wheel steered boat, the requirements of a quadrant, cables, autopilot rams and all the rest, make containing a failure far more problematic... And, with so many boats now being designed around their accommodation spaces, the creation of a true watertight compartment in that part of the boat becomes difficult. In larger boats, one way to do it is via the creation of a stern garage/opening transom, but those come with problems of their own...

The modern trend towards twin rudders is not a desireable one in boats meant to be sailed offshore, IMHO... Boats like the Pogo have dealt with the increased vulnerability of outboard rudders by isolating them in separate compartments, that's definitely the way to go...

I think a form-fitted collision mat for the bow is a really, REALLY good idea for any boat going offshore... A square or triangular mat will be much harder to affix properly over a breach in the hull, especially if the boat is still moving... With the greatest likelihood of a collision occurring near the stem or forefoot, a mat that extends a foot or more above the waterline, nicely contoured to the bottom and extending aft 6-8 feet or so, pre-rigged with deck attachment points at the toerail, could be deployed in a jiffy, and might really save your bacon some day...

A failure at the rudderpost, however, is far more likely, and is not gonna be perhaps so easily dealt with... Here's one of the most recent examples of a boat lost to a rudder failure after a collision, the sinking of a beautiful Sweden 45 in the Indian Ocean... It would really be interesting to know, what measures they took, what means they had at their disposal, to try to deal with such a problem...

This one's tough to watch, very sobering... Although, I must say, one of the most amazing things about this video, is the fact that the crew of the Jeanneau 52 that was on scene actually choose to sail across the Indian Ocean with their dinghy hanging from stern davits, with the motor still attached!

Yacht sinking video | Yachting World

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post #16 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by paperbird View Post
couple additions:

rubber sheet - wrap it around a hose and clamp in place or lay across the hole from the outside. tie in place with lines or sails

toilet wax ring - jam it onto/into a busted thru-hull
I looked at the Stay-Afloat video and thought it looked a lot like a toilet wax ring ... has anyone ever done a side-by-side comparison of the two? Are they actually one and the same material????
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post #17 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

Sad to watch video. One would hope they mounted motor to aid in rescue if needed,
however I fear your conclusion is correct as one would think dinghy would have been
in the water.
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post #18 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

Whilst I would never advocate not having wooden or neoprene plugs for seacock failures, I had exactly such a failure a few months ago where the galley sink pipe fractured and then the seacock was seized ( I know, embarrassing but nevertheless . . .).

I got ready to bang in a neoprene plug and then decided not to. I used a heavy duty plastic bag which I happened to have in the galley and ordinary hose clamps. I put the bag over the fitting, wrapped a small strip of cloth around the bag/seacock and clamped the whole lot together. It never leaked another drop, lasted for the rest of our holiday (another week) and I replaced the seacock and hose when I got back to the marina. The natural water pressure on a seacock is actually very low, light hand pressure is enough to fully stem the flow. And the plastic bag I fitted never even distended at all, it stayed flat across the opening.

The most distressing thing about the failure was unconsciously using the galley sink and dumping another load of dirty dishwater into the locker below . It took a while to always remember.

So the other thing I would like to say is that a broken seacock when there is nobody on board is a calamity that will lead to the sinking of the vessel. But if you're there and you know the thing has broken, the incoming water is easily manageable and there is REALLY no need for panic. Any operational bilge pump will laugh at the volume of water coming in. This was a 50mm (2") seacock , probably the biggest most of us would have on our boats and I had all the time in the world to stop the leak.

I would suggest the only time I would use a plug is if the skin fitting below the seacock failed because then there is nothing to clamp a plastic bag onto. Mostly, there isn't a whole lot of space around a seacock to swing a hammer so in my view the importance of having plugs is real but perhaps a little over-rated.


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post #19 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

yes, that video was hard to watch. The person who runs our sailing club "de-keeled" her boat, from what I understand its like watching that video in fast forward.

I have replaced my old friend, DUCT TAPE, with my new multi-purpose tool, Gorilla Tape. easily 2x to 10x the capability!
Instead of cotton weave, think Dacron. where you could see that duct tape left a pattern of residual glue (~30% coverage) the adhesive layer in Gorilla is MUCH more conformal. It WILL stick underwater. Go for the tough and wide...i think they use KEVLAR!
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post #20 of 24 Old 01-17-2013
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Re: Emergency leak repair

I keep the wood plugs, underwater epoxy, duct tape, a tarp, and have corks at each fiberglass standpipe.
Most leaks can be dealt with if caught in time. The nightmare situation is going below to find the floor boards floating. That would make it nearly impossible to locate a leak. I have not done it yet but plan on putting an alarm that can be heard in the cockpit on the load side of the second, higher (4") bilge pump switch. I have an old depth finder alarm buzzer that should work perfectly, mounted right by the companionway.
Another leak-stuffer is, of course, cushions kept in place by pcs. of wood. All boats should have plenty of odd pieces of lumber stowed somewhere.

Alberg 35: With a philosophical flourish Cato throws himself upon his sword; I quietly take to the ship.
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